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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I have a 03 cts 3.2l auto my car was giving me problems hitting very hard when I was driving an also slipping so I took it to get the transmission check out an they changed the fluid an filter they put dex 3 in it I had a choice out of dex 3 or dex 6. But they said that wasnt the problem with my car the said the front driveshaft bushing was shot so I bought 2 of ebay and replaced them myself. An it was driving well but it seems after driving for so long it feels like the rear wheel wants to fall off or have an egg or vibrates like its about slip also i could feel it in the shift an brake pedal an when I slow down all is well until I continue to drive. Do any of u know what the problem is sometimes I get these codes P2008 and P0318.
and these are the bushings I replaced with http://www.ebay.com/itm/280806808424?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_500wt_1180

Also I need help with this I keep getting P0300 p0302 p0304 p0305 codes anyway I replace the all spark plugs and an coils and that side still is giving me problems. I was told that it could be the injectors need to change and sometimes I can smell fuel? Any help can be great
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks I know what the codes mean but I was looking forward to a solution if someone could help me because it looks like my mechanic is guessing his way thro an I spending a lot of money on things that may not need to fix
 

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05 CTS
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Ok I have a 03 cts 3.2l auto my car was giving me problems hitting very hard when I was driving an also slipping so I took it to get the transmission check out an they changed the fluid an filter they put dex 3 in it I had a choice out of dex 3 or dex 6. But they said that wasnt the problem with my car the said the front driveshaft bushing was shot so I bought 2 of ebay and replaced them myself. An it was driving well but it seems after driving for so long it feels like the rear wheel wants to fall off or have an egg or vibrates like its about slip also i could feel it in the shift an brake pedal an when I slow down all is well until I continue to drive. Do any of u know what the problem is sometimes I get these codes P2008 and P0318.
and these are the bushings I replaced with http://www.ebay.com/itm/280806808424?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_500wt_1180

Also I need help with this I keep getting P0300 p0302 p0304 p0305 codes anyway I replace the all spark plugs and an coils and that side still is giving me problems. I was told that it could be the injectors need to change and sometimes I can smell fuel? Any help can be great

if the vibration happens under load when your accelerating and feels like a rapid *thump thump thump thump* its probably the drive shaft center bearing if it happens when the car is only coming off or on load and its only a single *thud* it is likely the differential bushing. when you switched out the driveshaft bushings was the rear one ok or were they both worn out?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yea it happens when accelerating I get the thump thump thump and the front bushing was the bad bushing but I replaced all 2 one time so would I need to replace the center bushing now? An it if needs to be replace can you give me the part number also pls? An thanks in advanced
 

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Yea it happens when accelerating I get the thump thump thump and the front bushing was the bad bushing but I replaced all 2 one time so would I need to replace the center bushing now? An it if needs to be replace can you give me the part number also pls? An thanks in advanced
cant guaranty that's going to fix every thing but it seems to be the issue for your drive shaft for now...
http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=375526&ukey_make=1023&ukey_model=14463&modelYear=2003&ukey_category=19464
your parts are at the bottom of the list #18 and #k01 you need a press to get the old one off and new one in place. don't forget to put index marks on everything or it will not realign properly the splines are not keyed at all so without making those marks you will be guessing how to put it back together. I would recommend taking it in for the labor to a shop that only works on drive shafts if available. a standard mechanic will go through much more trial and error to fix this then a specialist. i have the same issues and am putting in a whole new drive shaft, rebuilding it is proving to cost just as much as a new unit because of all the parts that fail on these. if one part goes it stresses the others and then they all start to fail. if you fix one and not the others then the others will make you new part fail and so on. you should also check your transmission mount as that is what most likely made the front coupler fail in the first place it sags and throws off the angle of the whole drive shaft system.
 

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'07 CTS 3.6
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Could be those cheap e-bay bushings. I would loosen them & try reseating them, in a cross star pattern , similar to installing a wheel.
Do it in stages going around around at least three times, to make sure they are seated evenly.
And use the proper torque values.
 

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I have the same issue. I replace all bushings and center bearing and still no joy. There is a thud when I let of the gas and accelerate again. Some time just going from drive to reverse causes a thud..it's annoying!
 

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2007 Cadillac CTS 3.6L
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i had exactly what you're describing. that's the differential pinion bearing.. had it fixed under powertrain warranty and thud disappeared

...or it's the differential bushing? are they the same thing?? i gotta check the paper when i get home from work lol my brain isn't working right now.... i know it was something with the differential though

I have the same issue. I replace all bushings and center bearing and still no joy. There is a thud when I let of the gas and accelerate again. Some time just going from drive to reverse causes a thud..it's annoying!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for your comments the problem is solved the front bushing bolts was loosening an after we retighten them all was gd. Now the only thing is is the misfiring anyone had any luck with finding out a solution for that? Thanks in advanced
 

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the differential bushing is the ame as driveshaftbushing that he put in the link??
No its different it's completely on the differential. There are 3 bolts that hold the differential on. 2 on top of it and 1 offset to the passenger side

the drive shaft has 2 flex discs, front and rear, that go between the drive shaft and the trans/diff respectively.
 

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is there a DIY on the flexdiscs?? sometimes i FEEl like a thump coming off and on load



Propeller Shaft Replacement

Removal Procedure
Raise and support vehicle.
Remove the exhaust system.

Remove the propeller shaft coupler-to-transmission flange bolts, nuts, and washers.

Remove the propeller shaft coupler-to-differential flange bolts, nuts, and washers.

Support the propeller shaft at the support bearing.
Remove the bolts securing the support bearing to the vehicle underbody.

Push the front propeller shaft toward the rear of the vehicle in order to release the propeller shaft coupler from the transmission flange.
While holding the front propeller shaft, lower the support device under the propeller shaft support bearing.
Remove the support bearing from the mounting studs.

Pull the rear propeller shaft forward to release the coupler from the differential flange. Note the number and location of the shim packs between the support bearing mounting bracket and the underbody to ensure proper assembly.
Remove the propeller shaft from the vehicle.
Inspect the propeller shaft coupler for the following conditions:
Splitting of the coupler
Deep cracking. Minor superficial cracking of the coupler is acceptable.
Looseness at the propeller shaft mounting bolts
Distorted or missing mounting bolt bushings
If any of the above conditions are found, the propeller shaft requires replacement.
Installation Procedure
Using a clean shop towel clean the following:
Differential flange centering pin
Transmission flange centering pin
Front propeller shaft centering bushing
Rear propeller shaft centering bushing
Apply a small amount of lubricant GM P/N 1051344 (Canadian P/N 993037), or equivalent, to the front and rear propeller shaft centering bushings.

Inspect the propeller shaft-to-flange nuts, bolts, and washers. Replace if damaged or worn. Install the rear propeller shaft coupler to the differential flange.
Rest the support bearing on the support device.
Thoroughly clean the threads using denatured alcohol, or equivalent, and allow to dry. Apply threadlocker GM P/N 12345493 (Canadian P/N 10953488), or equivalent, to the propeller shaft-to-flange bolt. Ensure that there are no gaps in the threadlocker along the length of the filled area of the bolt. Allow the threadlocker to cure approximately 10 minutes before installation.
Important: If reusing the propeller shaft-to-flange nuts and bolts. To ensure proper adhesion and fastener retention, the threads must be free of debris prior to the application of the threadlocker.

Install the propeller shaft coupler-to-differential flange washers to the propeller shaft coupler-to-differential flange bolts.
Install the propeller shaft coupler-to-differential flange bolts and washers to the propeller shaft coupler and differential flange.
Install the propeller shaft coupler-to-differential flange nuts. Tighten the propeller shaft coupler-to-differential flange bolts and nuts to 85 Nm (63 ft. lbs.) .

Push the front propeller shaft to the rear of the vehicle and install the propeller shaft coupler to the transmission flange.
Thoroughly clean the threads using denatured alcohol, or equivalent, and allow to dry. Apply threadlocker GM P/N 12345493 (Canadian P/N 10953488), or equivalent, to the propeller shaft-to-flange bolt. Ensure that there are no gaps in the threadlocker along the length of the filled area of the bolt. Allow the threadlocker to cure approximately 10 minutes before installation.
Important: If reusing the propeller shaft-to-flange nuts and bolts. To ensure proper adhesion and fastener retention, the threads must be free of debris prior to the application of the threadlocker.

Install the propeller shaft coupler-to-transmission flange washers to the propeller shaft coupler-to-transmission flange bolts.
Install the propeller shaft coupler-to-transmission flange bolts and washers to the propeller shaft coupler and transmission flange.
Install the propeller shaft coupler-to-differential flange nuts. Tighten the propeller shaft coupler-to-transmission flange bolts and nuts to 85 Nm (63 ft. lbs.) .

Install the center support bearing to the vehicle underbody.
Important: Ensure that the shim packs on the support bearing are installed in their original positions.

Raise the support device in order to hold the support bearing in position.
Install the center support bearing bolts to the vehicle underbody. Tighten the support bearing bolts to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.) .
Remove the support device from under the support bearing.
Install the exhaust system.
Lower the vehicle.
 

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'04 CTS 3.2 5-spd Manual
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Make sure your transmission mounts aren't sagging. When I had my flex disc replaced, I had a very noticeable vibration under load. Unlike the rubber OEM flex disc, which tolerates a little more play, the more rigid replacement flex discs are sensitive to vibration if the transmission mounts are sagging. I had to shim my transmission mounts--keep in mind that my car had over 100K and they were probably sagging a bit (although they may not have been properly aligned from the beginning--also likely). It was trial and error to figure out the amount of the mount. Started with 1/4 inch and worked my way up to what is, quite frankly "close enough" to make it tolerable. Still not perfect, but there's only so much trial and error I feel like doing. You may want to try this also.
 

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I installed a new carrier barring and didn't make any indication Mark's I reinstalled everything and now its vibrating at 30mph I didn't realize I should have marked everything is there anything on the driveshaft I can check to make sure the 2 pieces are correctly aligned or any suggestions
 

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When you say, "But they said that wasnt the problem with my car the said the front driveshaft bushing was shot so I bought 2 of ebay and replaced them myself" - Are you talking about the driveshaft couplers? They look like black donuts. What you need to replace is the Center Support Bearing in the middle of the driveshaft and ONE bushing that located on your rear differential.

The guys you brought it to don't seem too capable so I'd double check the transmission fluid level and rear differential fluid level.
In order to check the transmission fluid level, you have to dangerously jack the car on all four points and have it running, then slowly unscrew the fill plug and if fluid comes out, then you're good. If not, add until it comes out.
In order to check the rear diff, its the same deal except the car doesn't have to be running. Also the rear diff may require limited slip additive.
 

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Oh yeah the misfires. Definitely the right plugs? - Properly gapped and torqued? If you're smelling gas , I'd look at the fuel filter.
I wouldn't keep throwing parts at it. Pay a guy $100 to hook up a fancy computer to your car and he'll find it immediately.
 
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