[daddydg]

OK, I promise, last question fo rtonight.

It started getting a bit cold here in California so I turned on the heater for the first since I bought the car. It blows cold (outside) temp air out of the driver's side, but the passenger's side gets a little warm.

I'd checked the heat when I bought the car a few months ago and it was fine. I've read all the posts on this site. I can see the passenger side acctuator moving (behind the little panel in the glovebox). I can't find the driver's side acctuator.

When I put the heater to defrost for the windshield hot air blows out of the passenger's side of the vent on top of the dash, but nothing on the driver's.

I should note that when I pulled codes it showed B1340 (Air Mix Door One Movement Fault) and B1341 (Air Mix Door Two Movement Fault). What do they indicate exactly and when should I go looking for the problem.

Also, I saw a post about a guy who's heater core became clogged by BarsLeak Gold. I recently had my radiator flushed and I add the Bars Leak Gold Label powder based on recommendations from this site. Should I flush the heater core? If so, how?

Are there other things I should be checking.

 

[turbojimmy]

I should note that when I pulled codes it showed B1340 (Air Mix Door One Movement Fault) and B1341 (Air Mix Door Two Movement Fault). What do they indicate exactly and when should I go looking for the problem.

Those could be your problem right there. The doors are not moving as the IPM is commanding them to. The driver's mix actuator should be exactly opposite the passenger mix actuator on the plenum.

Now precisely what's wrong and how to fix it, I dunno. I know that the stealer can use the Tech2 to calibrate the doors but if the actuator motor(s) has gone bad then it (they) will need replaced.

Don't mess with the heater core. If you have any warmth from anywhere it's fine.

Jim

 

[Ranger]

I agree with Turbojimmy. Don't mess with the core. On my '97 Deville I think the driver side acutator was below the passengers and was accessable from under the dash (remove the hush panel). Try running the temp up to max, then back down to excersise a possible sticking door or actuator. That used to work for me. Otherwise, look for a vacuum leak before replacing the acuator.

 

[Caddyshack100]

Ranger and Turbojimmy are right, on my 98 Deville, I also got hot and cold at the same time, the actuator for the passenger side is on top as you know, the drivers in on the bottom as Ranger as said. You need to have the passenger control turned off and then pull the hush panel and then look at the rod as it moves. What may be happening is the rod is moving ok, but then continuing on as the temp button is being pushed for the warmer. this would result in the temp going back to cold again. You could try taking the rod off and then pushing it manually to close the door, this would be only a quick fix until you are able to acertain excactly the problem. The actuator is about 80 dollars and the passenger side was a real pain to replace (big hands), but the drivers should be a lot easier. The shop manual does also mention that the controller itself may have to be changed. Hopefully that does not mean you. For mine I had to plug my Tech2 in and look at the counts as I commanded the doors, lucky for me it was only the Actuator motor and not the programmer. Goodluck and hope you find the heat

 

[daddydg]

I tried pushing it shut and guess what... still problems.

Thanks for all the great suggestions.

I took off the passenger side hush panel and found the acctuator for the driver's side. It did seem like it was a bit sticky, but I got it adjusted so it moved freely and properly when I ran the temp up and down. However, with the "auto" heat all the way up to 90 degrees the air coming out of the driver's floor vent is still only abut room temperature, not hot like what was coming out of the passenger's side.

I even took the arm off the acctuator so I could try closing the door by hand. I could hear the door shut and I pushed it closed. With the door open I rcvd cool air, with it shut it was a tad warmer, but still not hot like the passenger's side.

What should I try next? Does anyone have an exploded diagram of the heater box? Is there a way to open it up without remiving the dash?

Dan

 

[Caddyshack100]

Because you have two codes, I would suggest taking both the passenger and driver actuators bars off the respective motors, and then closing both manually, it may be that the door is coming open again after you push it in. If that does not work then check for a vacuum leak, near the right corner from where you removed the hush panel, the Programmer is also behind the vacuum tree that is there. The shop manual recommends that you check for bad wiring to each little actuator motor and then if its ok, horrors, change the HVAC programmer. Before you go down that road, it would be to your advantage to have the dealer or anybody else who has a tech2 scan tool, or Genisys, to hook up and confirm that the programmer is bad. Hope this helps you and good luck.

 

[daddydg]

Why is changing the HVAC programmer so horrible?

 

[Ranger]

Why is changing the HVAC programmer so horrible?

Because it is big $$$$.

Flush the heater core. I think that may solve your problem.

 

[daddydg]

How do I flush the heater core?

 

[Ranger]

Still don't know what year car or what engine your talking about but in either case, locate the two heater hoses going through the firewall at the passenger side. Remove both, hook a garden hose to one and turn it on. Water will flush through it and out the other hose. Then reverse it by putting the garden hose on the other one.

 

[daddydg]

1998 Deville.

Jeez, I'm sorry Ranger. I thought I mentioned the make and model in my initial post, but I guess not, sorry.

It's a 1998 Deville.

 

[Ranger]

Add it to your profile and it will always be there.