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2009 CTS DI AWD
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56 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
A Question for Y'all,

I used the FOB to unlock my doors to enter the car. I pushed on the button, and heard the locks move. I pulled on the handle and the door wouldn't open. Pressed the button again, I heard the locks move, yet still, none of the doors (or trunk) would open. Tried the other key FOB and the same results. Finally, I used the manual key to gain entry. :bigroll: Later on the dealer tried it. The same results happened and they couldn't explain it or think of an easy fix. They said that they would have to look into it and get back to me as the car sits in the shop.

I am hoping the collective brain power :bighead: of our members could derive a solution that I could pass on to the dealer.

Cheers.
 

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2006 Cadillac CTS 6MT, 2008 Cadillac CTS 6MT
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174 Posts
I had a similar situation but it involved only one door on my CTS. I would press unlock once to get the drivers door, then again to get the rest unlocked; however, in order to get the rear passenger-side door unlocked, I would have to press it a couple more times. I looked it over, locking and unlocking it numerous times while inside the vehicle looking at the manual door lock and realized that the motor lacked sufficient power to actually push the lock mechanism up and down. I later realized it wasn't even locking. Am I ever glad I realized this! Anyways, took it into my dealer, they explained it was a corroded connection to the motor. I found it strange that there would be a corroded connection on my vehicle just 2 weeks after the actual build date, but it was repaired and I haven't had any problems with it (the door lock) since. I don't know how much this will help; it would be very unusual to have all of your connections corrode at the same time. Anything is possible I guess though. Good luck!
 

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Cadillac SRX
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30 Posts
I have had a similar problem with my rear driver-side door, especially in cold weather. I found that pressing the "unlock" button on the key fob once or twice only moved the lock (the one you can see through the window while standing right outside the door) up a little. However, pressing the "unlock" button a few extra times did the trick.
 

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2009 Cadillac CTS DI AWD
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9 Posts
try pulling on the door handle twice, usually the second pull unlocks it. Unless you have the keyless go option, then you do not need to press the fob at all just walk up to the car and pull the handle twice.
 

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2009 CTS DI AWD
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56 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the good feedback.

However, Problem Solved!

Sort of . . . . .

The dealer dropped off my car at work. He said he had to do something with the batteries in the keyfobs and the security system.

I went to drive my car home from work and the darn locks wouldn't open again. I called roadside assistance and they were there within 10 minutes. They gave it a boost and now all is well. The roadside tech said the initial issue was probably a low battery, NOT the keyfobs. The tech says the important identifier is that if the car doesn't let your key out of the ignition, it means it's a dead battery.

I know that the car barely started the first time this issue popped up - so maybe it's the sign of a wearing battery. I guess the 4 hour wait in the parking lot must have drained it. However, after sitting 12 hours at home, it started up perfectly this morning.:burn:

Last Question: I thought that these cars have built in "kill circuits" that turn off all systems after 15 minutes, so you don't drain the battery. Is that true? And if so, should I take her to the dealer again?
 

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2006 Cadillac CTS 6MT, 2008 Cadillac CTS 6MT
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174 Posts
I have had a similar problem with my rear driver-side door, especially in cold weather. I found that pressing the "unlock" button on the key fob once or twice only moved the lock (the one you can see through the window while standing right outside the door) up a little. However, pressing the "unlock" button a few extra times did the trick.
That is EXACTLY what mine was doing. It was the middle of December when I took delivery, so it was all cold weather and doing it all the time. I would take it into your dealer and have it repaired (if you haven't already).


Last Question: I thought that these cars have built in "kill circuits" that turn off all systems after 15 minutes, so you don't drain the battery. Is that true? And if so, should I take her to the dealer again?
Very good point. I actually considered starting a thread about this. Yesterday, I was waxing and polishing my CTS. I had the 2 front windows down, with the key set to Acc with some music playing. After about an hour, it shut off. I figured that "battery run-down protection" had kicked in, so I decided I should start my car and let it charge up. Went to start it, and it wouldn't turn over. Had to get a boost from my girlfriend. It seems to be fine now. It's my own fault, I shouldn't have left it on for so long, but I was depending on that run-down protection. Guess I won't be taking that for granted anymore!
 

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2008 DTS LUX III - Gold Mist traded for 2004 Tbird
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1,511 Posts
I strongly suspect the battery saver feature doesn't work.......with all? With Some? ...Maybe some others can chime in with how it saved them, but it didn't work on my 2008 CTS. I had a trouble light take the battery all the way down. My fault, but I was disappointed that the battery saver didn't save me. As to Fritze...........I don't think the Battery Saver is supposed to work if you have the ACC turned on. I think it is only supposed to work if the ignition is OFF.
 

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2008 CTS 3.6L DI RWD, GMPP new engine 11/2013
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2,092 Posts
After my CTS' engine is turned "OFF," the battery-protection timer seems to work as intended. I've verified that after 10 minutes the audio system, power windows, and exterior lights (if "ON" instead of "AUTO") shut down, and hopefully after 20 minutes the passenger cabin and trunk lights too.
 

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Cadillac
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207 Posts
GM might be having trouble with the batteries supplied with the 08 and newer CTS. I had the same problem with the battery running down within 30 minutes of listening to the radio while waiting for my wife. The first time it happened I was able to get a jump from the guy next to me in the parking lot. I was up and running before my wife got back to the car. I stopped by the dealer the next day and told him of my situation. This was when the car was lessa than 3 months old. They supposedly checked out the system and charged the battery and told me everything was OK. Well, it happened again last week and this time my wife was waiting for me in the car and after 20 minutes the car shut down. There was not even enough power to call *onstar, so I had to call AAA. After that experience I went back to the dealer and told him of my second experience. This time they did a load test on the battery and it failed miserably. This time they did replace the battery. When I asked the service manager about the apparent weakness of the battery and asked if anyone else was having problems, he finally admitted that they have been having some problems with the batteries and are recommending to their customers to not leave the radio on in the ACC mode. Just turn it off and let it play until the radio turns itself off. I kinda think that this sucks. I don't know if it due to weak batteries, or maybe the fact with the 5.1 surround system draws far too much power and the battery is just too small to handle the power draw.
 

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2006 Cadillac CTS 6MT, 2008 Cadillac CTS 6MT
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174 Posts
As to Fritze...........I don't think the Battery Saver is supposed to work if you have the ACC turned on. I think it is only supposed to work if the ignition is OFF.
I think you're right. I have left an interior light on over night before, and when I got into my car the next morning, it was off, but when I started it, the light came on. Unfortunately I didn't figure this whole ACC thing out until after the battery died. Oh well, lesson learned.


GM might be having trouble with the batteries supplied with the 08 and newer CTS. I had the same problem with the battery running down within 30 minutes of listening to the radio while waiting for my wife. The first time it happened I was able to get a jump from the guy next to me in the parking lot. I was up and running before my wife got back to the car. I stopped by the dealer the next day and told him of my situation. This was when the car was lessa than 3 months old. They supposedly checked out the system and charged the battery and told me everything was OK. Well, it happened again last week and this time my wife was waiting for me in the car and after 20 minutes the car shut down. There was not even enough power to call *onstar, so I had to call AAA. After that experience I went back to the dealer and told him of my second experience. This time they did a load test on the battery and it failed miserably. This time they did replace the battery. When I asked the service manager about the apparent weakness of the battery and asked if anyone else was having problems, he finally admitted that they have been having some problems with the batteries and are recommending to their customers to not leave the radio on in the ACC mode. Just turn it off and let it play until the radio turns itself off. I kinda think that this sucks. I don't know if it due to weak batteries, or maybe the fact with the 5.1 surround system draws far too much power and the battery is just too small to handle the power draw.
Very interesting. I believe my radio was only playing for about a half hour before shutting itself off also. I'll keep an eye on it, and if it happens again, I will consider taking it to the dealer. Thanks for the information!
 
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