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2001 eldorado,2008 DTS,2005 XLR, '96 eldo,'95 eldo,' 89 eldo,'78 eldo,'11CTS-V
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Timing is simple.
Insert a welding rod into #1 cylinder spark plug hple.Turn the crank til the rod is at TDC.
Install the two cam chains with each cam's index mark 90° to the head
 

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1998 DeVille
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Timing is simple.
Insert a welding rod into #1 cylinder spark plug hple.Turn the crank til the rod is at TDC.
Install the two cam chains with each cam's index mark 90° to the head
Do I actually have to remove the timing cover to do this?
 

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2001 eldorado,2008 DTS,2005 XLR, '96 eldo,'95 eldo,' 89 eldo,'78 eldo,'11CTS-V
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1,816 Posts
Absolutely!
And when you put the harmonic balancer back, the torque on the bolt has to be at spec. It holds/drives the oil pump.

I'm getting concerned that you maybe getting in over your head. I've done these insert jobs many time; always with the engine out of the car. You're doing with the engine IN the car as your first rodeo. Either your a better man than I am or you haven't thought this project out fully. Don't mean to be critical, but this is no SBC.
 

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2004 Deville
2004 Deville, Silver, Gone, but not forgotten, 1972 Eldorado, 1974 eldorado, 1975 CDV
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686 Posts
Where is the best place to hold the car up while I loosen the cradle? I saw a video and a guy had the stands on the sides of the car
there are factory jacking pads just inside the rockers right behind the cradle, put your jackstands there
 

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1998 DeVille
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
I'm taking it slowly, and only moving forward when I have the information needed to take the next step. I have video of every part removed so far. I've pulled harmonic balancers and timing covers before. Am I trained in this? No, but I also have done so much to my own cars, and in the end, it's all bolts and torque ratings. And I'm not too proud to ask for help before tackling something I don't understand.

I plan on posting the edited video of this job when I'm done, so when the next person needs to do this job, they'll have a decent guide.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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69,374 Posts
Use a 3 ton engine cherrypicker and nylon strap/chain around the upper radiator crossbrace. Lift the entire front of the car and place jackstands under the hardpads at the body sides behind the tires.

Leave the cherrypicker in place with a slight strain, when it's all loose and ready to drop you lift the car, roll the pallet jack under the entire engine/cradle assembly.

Timing and chain guide/slipper/tensioner replacement is discussed at length in the GM/Cadillac/Helm service manuals. Also online in the www.alldatadiy.com Cadillac manuals.
 

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1998 DeVille
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
When setting the timing, do you have to go all the way around again if you miss it by a tooth, or can you go backwards as well? Today is the day I finish pulling the heads.... I hope
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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You need to set the sprockets and cams correctly with the crank at TDC #1 firing stroke. Once everything is set and assembled it takes 17 engine revolutions to get it all to line up again - if you also mark the chains.

Timing chains and marks gif.gif


Timing chain and tensioner exploded.gif
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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69,374 Posts
Replace every timing chain tensioner and guide slipper. I already posted about your hydraulic cam followers (lifters).

Timing_Chain_Installation.jpg
 

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2001 eldorado,2008 DTS,2005 XLR, '96 eldo,'95 eldo,' 89 eldo,'78 eldo,'11CTS-V
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1,816 Posts
When setting cam timing, it doesn't matter whether TDC is firing or exhaust.
 

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1998 DeVille
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
I used to hear a light rattling when starting the car, I had read that it could be the lifters, so I guess this kinda works out, while I'm in here
 

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1998 DeVille
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
Before I go through this, I have a diagnostic question. If throughout the process of tracking down this overheating issue I've had, could a sticky water pump be a partial cause?

Exhaust gasses had been identified in the coolant.
Water outlet gaskets needed replacing, as did intake and valve cover gaskets. those were changed and we chose not to do the heads, in theory solving the coolant loss issue causing the overheat...
Coolant continued to be lost through the overflow tube.
Coolant loss through overflow tube could caused by getting too hot during operations.

Now, here's the quirky part. Car will not be able to hold back the temperature in city conditions, but would kinda during stoplights. Less load and all, yada yada.... I was able to drive it 75 miles highway without overheating, keeping my rpms below 2000 the whole way.

Could a sticky waterpump, that can't keep up with the building temperatures be the culprit now?

What are the possible entry points for exhaust gasses in the coolant? Is it possible through the upper wateroutlet gaskets if the intake and valve cover gaskets are also bad? Or is it an instant head diagnosis?

The test was green, not yellow, but the overheating was pretty consistent.
 

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1998 DeVille
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #37

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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You should be able to drive any mileage at any rpm in any gear at any time at any ambient temp and never see the gauge move far from the 12 o'clock position. A Northstar cooling system is hideously efficient when in good condition in a good engine. Very very little coolant circulated through the radiator until at least 188 degrees is reached - the 'stat isn't even fully open until 206.

ANY color change from the original fluid blue is a positive indication of exhaust gases in the coolant.

A sticky water pump would destroy the belt and the plastic main pump drive pulley that is tightly pressed onto the left bank intake cam extension. There may still be a black plastic thread protector screwed into the cam extension. Torx bit.
 

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1998 DeVille
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
I have pulled the balancer, that was fun. I used a jack to get the leverage to break the bolt. Do I need to pull the AC compressor off to get this cover off? It looks so close that I wouldn't need to
 

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1998 DeVille
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
To answer the question.... Kinda..... You have to pull the two bolts and one nut off the front, and most of the bolt facing the front of the vehicle on the back.

Cover is off. Bought a new gasket for it already, so that's cool.... I'll buy the timing equipment, but that's no fun. Next day I'm in this beast I'll be knocking that out, then hopefully I'll be able to get the heads off the same day
 
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