[Cruiser]

95 SLS is at the dealer for a blower motor replacement ($725.00) and they noticed that the coolent was low and it looked like it was coming from behind the manifold. They are asking $2200. to replace all of the seals including that leaky rear main seal.
Has anyone ever had this work done and is this a fair price?
I have a 98 Vette (LS1) with 77K and have had zero problems and the SLS has 71K. Is the Northstar a problem child?

 

[addison_ii]

The vets here may correct me if I'm wrong but, actually, I think they're trying to get over on this one. If it has been more than 2 years since you changed the coolant, then have them drain it, refill it and add the GM Coolant Supplement pellets(3 of them, in the radiator hose not the tank).The oil problem is a common problem with some of the NorthStar engines but, honestly no, it's not a problem child. Maintained correctly the NorthStar can possibly reach well over 200,000 miles. You must pay very strict attention to the coolant on this engine because if not checked or changed every 2 years, the coolant will lose it's protective properties, leading to head gasket failure.

While the oil can be a problem, most people tend to look over this issue, as it is not that much of a problem unless it's leaking like a geyser

 

[Cruiser]

The vets here may correct me if I'm wrong but, actually, I think they're trying to get over on this one. If it has been more than 2 years since you changed the coolant, then have them drain it, refill it and add the GM Coolant Supplement pellets(3 of them, in the radiator hose not the tank).The oil problem is a common problem with some of the NorthStar engines but, honestly no, it's not a problem child. Maintained correctly the NorthStar can possibly reach well over 200,000 miles. You must pay very strict attention to the coolant on this engine because if not checked or changed every 2 years, the coolant will lose it's protective properties, leading to head gasket failure.

While the oil can be a problem, most people tend to look over this issue, as it is not that much of a problem unless it's leaking like a geyser

I putting in about a quart every 2500 miles. I'm not used to putting in any oil on previous cars. That's why I was asking about the Northstar being a problem child.

I bought the car 6 months ago and I don't know what type of maintanence was given but it came from Palms Springs (a retirement area) and it had 61K on it. I am asuming that it was taken care of since retirees do take care of their cars.

Correct me if I am wrong but sometime not driving a car is as bad as abusing it regarding seals and some gaskets. I don't think it was ever driven hard.

 

[TexasBandit]

I had the blower motor replaced on my '97 Eldorado shortly after purchasing it. The cost the dealer quote of $725 was about what I paid. They have to lower or raise (I can't remember which) the motor to replace the blower. That's the reason for the high cost. As far as the oil consumption goes, 1 quart in 2500 miles isn't bad at all for a Northstar. Because of the construction of the engine (and they are intended to be run hard), they tend to use more than others if they aren't run hard occassionaly. However, the WOT (wide open throttle) technique does reduce the oil consumption because it "cleans out" the engine. What you can do is put the shifter in 2nd, floor it and run up to about 70 mph. Then let the car coast back down to about 55 mph keeping the car in 2nd. Repeat the process 3 or 4 times. This has been demonstrated to reduce the oil consumption by cleaning out the engine:thumbsup: . Hope it helps ...

 

[iametarq]

you take the car up to 70mph in TWO!?

My dad always told me not to do that.

 

[Cruiser]

I had the blower motor replaced on my '97 Eldorado shortly after purchasing it. The cost the dealer quote of $725 was about what I paid. They have to lower or raise (I can't remember which) the motor to replace the blower. That's the reason for the high cost. As far as the oil consumption goes, 1 quart in 2500 miles isn't bad at all for a Northstar. Because of the construction of the engine (and they are intended to be run hard), they tend to use more than others if they aren't run hard occassionaly. However, the WOT (wide open throttle) technique does reduce the oil consumption because it "cleans out" the engine. What you can do is put the shifter in 2nd, floor it and run up to about 70 mph. Then let the car coast back down to about 55 mph keeping the car in 2nd. Repeat the process 3 or 4 times. This has been demonstrated to reduce the oil consumption by cleaning out the engine:thumbsup: . Hope it helps ...

I think most of the oil that the SLS uses is due to an oil leak (I hope) because of the mark that it makes. I think it's a hot rod at heart. "It doesn't leak oil, it marks it's territory."
When I bought the car 6 months ago, it was to be a comuter car to save miles on the Vette but it grew on me. Now it's the "go to work" car, "go to the store" car, go casino hopping" car and "take the family to dinner" car. The Vette is now the Sunday cruise car and the "lets go to Vegas" car.
I guess I have to shell out the cash to get it done right. Hopefully nothing else will happen in the next year or so.

 

[Cruiser]

Well I did it. I gave Dutton Motors (the caddy dealer) the go ahead on the repairs. After talking with the service writer, it will be between $2200 and $2300 for a complete re-seal and gasket replacement. This is about $1000 less than the price that I was given about 4 months ago. They said that they were getting to their slow season and they needed to keep their mechanics busy.
Well I guess that's my Christmas present.:xcry:

 

[Ranger]

Go to the top left of this page, click on Technical Archives and read up on oil consumption. Once you understand it, you won't worry about it or consider it a problem.

 

[Cruiser]

Go to the top left of this page, click on Technical Archives and read up on oil consumption. Once you understand it, you won't worry about it or consider it a problem.

Thanks, I just did. Some have the same (but not as bad) problem with the LS1 engins. Fortunately I haven't. I run Mobil 1 synthetic per GM in it and it's too expensive to keep adding!
So I guess I had better stock up on oil but replacing the seals and gaskets will at least get rid of the weekly clean up that I do on my driveway. The mess doesn't come with the Caddy does it?
It's a great car but the suspesion was a little mushy untill I added more air to the tires. 35 psi in the front and 33 in the rear. Rides and handels much better now.

If there's any thing else that I need to know, drop me a line and thanks again.:thumbsup:

 

[mcowden]

Thanks, I just did. Some have the same (but not as bad) problem with the LS1 engins. Fortunately I haven't. I run Mobil 1 synthetic per GM in it and it's too expensive to keep adding!
So I guess I had better stock up on oil but replacing the seals and gaskets will at least get rid of the weekly clean up that I do on my driveway. The mess doesn't come with the Caddy does it?
It's a great car but the suspesion was a little mushy untill I added more air to the tires. 35 psi in the front and 33 in the rear. Rides and handels much better now.
If there's any thing else that I need to know, drop me a line and thanks again.:thumbsup:

You can start saving a few bucks by switching to conventional motor oil per GM and changing it when the OLM says to change it per GM. Synthetic oil is only required in the new VVT Northstars, and is not required nor recommended for any others. No need to use it in your 95 SLS, though the Mobil 1 bottle might have you think otherwise. Just use a good conventional oil and a good filter (non-Fram) and you'll be fine.

 

[Cruiser]

You can start saving a few bucks by switching to conventional motor oil per GM and changing it when the OLM says to change it per GM. Synthetic oil is only required in the new VVT Northstars, and is not required nor recommended for any others. No need to use it in your 95 SLS, though the Mobil 1 bottle might have you think otherwise. Just use a good conventional oil and a good filter (non-Fram) and you'll be fine.

Sorry, I meant to say that the Vette uses Moble 1 but the Caddy uses 20-40 good ol fashion oil and yes I do use Fram filters. I think they have always been the best.

 

[Ranger]

yes I do use Fram filters. I think they have always been the best.

:fan::hide:

 

[cl1986]

ok, couple things

From the oil filter study ive seen, fram was one of the worst filters and costs more than others. But its your choice. Since i saw that study i always use the purolator standard filter. Purolator has a "better" filter than the standard for an extra $2 but its a waste of $2. I physically saw the insides of over 50 filters he tested and tore apart.

The blower motor can be replaced with a long pry bar to slightly "rock" the engine forward and/or possible couple bolts loosened on the motor mount. The blower is about $250 or so and a half hour should be plenty of time to replace it, at most an hour. No way $700 even at $150 an hour. These morons go by the book and do it in 10 minutes and charge you $700

Well, this is just what ive learned. Hope that helps someone out.

 

[Supercrew632]

CL1986,
Glad to know I'm a moron----You know all that money absoulutely does not go to the technician---part of what your are paying for is the expertise we have and the warranty----do it yourself or go to pepboys, I don't care, because I eventually will see the mess afterwards. I have personally spent time away from my family, training in burbank, and countless hours online training--we are always learning. I would rather take my car to someone who knows the FACTORY way to do it, than some shmuck that maybe sees a cadillac once a month!! Go ahead and use that prybar---booger up the housing and valve cover and have a nice day.

Supercrew632

 

[cl1986]

CL1986,
Glad to know I'm a moron----You know all that money absoulutely does not go to the technician---part of what your are paying for is the expertise we have and the warranty----do it yourself or go to pepboys, I don't care, because I eventually will see the mess afterwards. I have personally spent time away from my family, training in burbank, and countless hours online training--we are always learning. I would rather take my car to someone who knows the FACTORY way to do it, than some shmuck that maybe sees a cadillac once a month!! Go ahead and use that prybar---booger up the housing and valve cover and have a nice day.
Supercrew632

Huh?? Where the hell did this come from??

Ive read many posts stating how to change the blower motor and that it is difficult to do but can be done, esp without a $700 bill. I was just letting them know this. Noone boogered up their housing or vavle cover.

Try help someone out and i get bashed. What really sucks is the post about changing the blower motor is probrably gone now and people cant search for the answer anymore like most of my posts from a year ago that have all the answers deleted from them. Im just trying to get info back on here so people know what to do.

Have a nice day!!

 

[cl1986]

These morons go by the book and do it in 10 minutes and charge you $700
.

Oh, now i see...

Ok i will rephrase.

These freindly techs, which i dont think are the ones that collect the money anyhow, look in a book and it says "3 hours" to replace "x" and thats what they charge you.

 

[Supercrew632]

Whatever the book says we have to charge----sometimes it takes longer and sometimes it takes less than what it says---We also get paid by the job, not hourly----so if I do three blower motors at 3 hours(like you say) and am required to be at work for 12 hours than I lost money---only paid 9----step in our shoes before you criticize. Like I said the dealership I work at charges $95.00 per hour--I only get $21.00 of it. That was my statement that we don't see that money, although the perception is that the techs are rich---HAH!!!!

Supercrew632

 

[SteveThefolkie]

. "It doesn't leak oil, it marks it's territory."

:cool2:

heh ... last time I heard that a friend was explaining why his Norton 850 Commando was soiling his garage floor ....

Steve