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DIY oil change 2018 2.0T

474 Views 15 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  NorthernSRX
Hi, I'm gonna do my first DIY oil change for this car as the free ones are now finished. My question was if both the filter and drain plug are easily accessible from underneath.

I will be using ramps to lift the front end.

Thanks!
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I've done the last two oil changes on my 2017 2.0T using ramps in my driveway. Drain plug and oil filter are both very easy to access (no belly pan to remove, so it's quick and easy). I've done virtually all of my own oil changes over the past 40 years (except for the FREE Cadillac ones!) and this car is probably the easiest to do of them all. Good luck with your change!
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That's a coincidence. I did my 3k mile (4800 km) oil change today!

Five quarts (4.7 liters) Mobil 1, 5W-30 and Wix WL10290 filter.

Take the time to check your differential while you're at it.
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I've done the last two oil changes on my 2017 2.0T using ramps in my driveway. Drain plug and oil filter are both very easy to access (no belly pan to remove, so it's quick and easy). I've done virtually all of my own oil changes over the past 40 years (except for the FREE Cadillac ones!) and this car is probably the easiest to do of them all. Good luck with your change!
Perfect, sounds good, I do the changes on all my cars at home and will do this one too, thanks!
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It's quite easy like the others said, that's right. Remember to use the right torques:

Oil Pan Drain Plug 25 N.m // 18 lb ft
Oil Filter 30 N.m // 22 lb ft

And as a hint for the filter change: cut an empty plastic bottle (wider than the filter) in half ... and after you have loosened the filter use the bottle to unscrew the filter. There is always oil dripping off the oil filter and that's an easy way to avoid an oil mess underneath your car and in your hands.
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5 quarts is for the RWD versions. AWD takes 6 quarts of oil. Super easy on the ATS. Nothing blocks the plug or the filter, no surprises. I want to say it's a 15mm for the drain plug. Since you're on ramps (like me), the filter is not perfectly vertical and will spill a little while you're unscrewing it.
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About time for my oil change too, our cars must have synchronized-...nevermind. 😄

Good advice above. I'll add that I pour oil into the filter before installing it so the oil pressure is built up faster, just have to factor that into the total fill amount. Additionally, if the drain plug has never been replaced, I would consider that too as the built-in rubber grommet wears over time. I bought a box of 10 from RockAuto iirc.
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About time for my oil change too, our cars must have synchronized-...nevermind. 😄

Good advice above. I'll add that I pour oil into the filter before installing it so the oil pressure is built up faster, just have to factor that into the total fill amount. Additionally, if the drain plug has never been replaced, I would consider that too as the built-in rubber grommet wears over time. I bought a box of 10 from RockAuto iirc.
How often do you replace the plug? Not challenging, just curious.
Curiously on My SRX, the FSM insists on changing the fill and drain plugs on the entire drive train ( when servicing) but NOT the oil one.....suppose its a good idea after 10 years? what the hell its only 12 bucks more on your DIY oil change :rolleyes:
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... our cars must have synchronized-...nevermind. 😄

... if the drain plug has never been replaced, I would consider that too as the built-in rubber grommet wears over time. ...
Sort of like women and their menstrual cycles? Well ... maybe not "sort of."

The thought of changing my drain plug occurred to me this time, but it really looked good. I might next time.
How often do you replace the plug? Not challenging, just curious.
I have replaced mine twice, once soon after I got the car because the bolt head was stripped a little and I didn't like the look of it. And a second time on my most recent oil change. I would just take a look at the rubber to make sure it's not too hard/brittle and see if it is at all permanently compressed. If that makes sense.

Sort of like women and their menstrual cycles? Well ... maybe not "sort of."

The thought of changing my drain plug occurred to me this time, but it really looked good. I might next time.
Haha yes, that. Wasn't sure if someone would get that joke...you didn't let me down!
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I guess I don't keep vehicles long enough but I have never needed to replace a drain plug/gasket yet. I have had to take some pretty extreme measures to remove the factory installed oil filter on every 6.6L diesel I have owned and I have worried a bit about damage to the integrated oil to coolant heat exchanger. The gorilla at Moraine Ohio assembly plant responsible for installing these hasn't lost any strength over the years since I bought my first Duramax diesel in 2001. The 6.6L turbo diesel will pin its 120 PSI oil pressure gauge just off idle with a cold engine but I think when assembly gorilla is finished the gasket is compressed to barely thicker than an oil film and it doesn't need to be on with that much force.

This morning I changed the oil and transmission filter on my GMC Sierra Denali pickup. It is the easiest vehicle to change since there is a ton of clearance (no need for ramps). I start the oil draining then replace the spin on Allison transmission filter, a few minutes later it is ready for the new oil filter and the drain plug to be reinstalled. The only hassle with the pickup was from GM moving the oil fill back to near the rear of the engine with the L5P generation making it more difficult to fit a large funnel and the gallon jugs I use to fill it (10 quarts of 15W40). It would be fine if it had a rear opening hood like the Corvette.

My 3.6 ATS is the second easiest to change, the filter is really nice with the drop in cartridge replaced from the top and the sump drain plug is pretty easy to access.

The 3.6L Camaro is similar except it uses a traditional bottom mount filter. The 2016 Corvette Z06 easily is the most involved with its dry sump system with two drain plugs. It has to be in the air and level so that both drains work properly. After installing the new filter, 9 quarts of oil are added and the car has to be driven until the oil is up to normal operating temperature and then parked on a dead level surface with the engine shut off. To get a proper level reading, the engine must be off for at least 5 minutes but not more than 10 minutes and based upon this reading additional oil is added to the reservoir to hit the correct level.

As of now, all vehicles have had an oil change in the last 2 months so now it is time for the tractors and generator :)

Nothing I own is very difficult to change and with the nearest good dealerships half an hour away, it takes far more time to drive and wait than it does to change and usually I do two at a time and finish both within half an hour.

For years I have used Farm and Fleet for my AC Delco oil filters but I was glad I checked online this morning before picking up a filter because the large filter for my pickup was $17, nearly twice the price Walmart charges. Charm and Cheat is now a very different store from what it was when I moved to Illinois.

Rodger
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SOS!

I have the car up on the ramps but I don't see the drain plug or the oil filter! I think I see the transmission oil pan but nothing else...there are some covers towards the front of the car but members here said don't need to remove any covers to access...I am confused. Any help will be appreciated, how far back are the drain plug and filter? Thanks.
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thank you! with the limited space in my garage it was very difficult to crawl under but now I see both!!! :)
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Both my cars now have the bottom mount filters and boy do I miss the drop-in cartridge of my old CTS. You really have to be prepared for the mess with these bottom-mount filters.
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