[Pillow]

Mods: if this is the wrong sub forum, please move it to appearance. But it seems like the 5 lug conversion coversations happen in Perf so I'll start here.

I am long overdue in posting this info, but here it is. It is so easy you will cry, with a decent tool collection you can do most of this at home. Some items do need a machine shop, but it is only the rotors hub dia. Honestly I have forgotten some of the ultra details as I did this in the fall, but you will see from the pics most everything to do.

What you will need:
Front
- 2010+ Camaro SS rotors.
- Rotor hub dia needs to be machined to 70.2mm to match XLR hubs (lathe at machine shop - $40 each for me)
- XLR / Corvette C5/C6 hubs - watch the tang location! There are two PNs and they are different (see pics below)
- Wheels make sure to have 5x120 or 5x4.75(?) bolt pattern and min 70.2mm hub bore.

Rear
- Redrilled stock rotors (I did it on my drill press, or take it to a machine shop)
- XLR / Corvette C5/C6 hubs
- Wheels make sure to have 5x120 or 5x4.75(?) bolt pattern and min 70.2mm hub bore.

Note: G8/GTO/Camaro wheels are 68mm(?) and the inner hub will need to be machined out. It is easier to find Corvette, XLR, or BMW wheels (74mm use with hubcentric bushing).

Lies: Corvette rotors work! No, not even close.
Lies: Camaro wheels bolt right on!
Lies: Any Corvette hub will work!
Lies: The rear conversion is hard because of the e-brake! Not the way I show you.
Lies: The CTS needs 6 lugs because it's so heavy! Really? Really? Check yourself.


Front: stock and starting to dive in. Of course wheel, caliper, and rotors are coming off. Use a T-30 for the rotor retaining bolt.

All the ish removed:

See the difference in hubs!

Not many tools needed really:

* I think * this is the correct front bearing PN (yeah it is the cheap Chiness junk off E-bay. I didn't want to go big money on Timkens to find out this did not work. So far the el cheapos have been just fine.)

Fit your wheels:

Rears in next post.

----------

Saved for rears.

 

[Pillow]

Rear fitment:

Before:

Go to Autozone or be proactive and get this deep socket for the axle nuts. You can "rent" the socket, but I bought it JIC I need it later for new axles.

Good luck with just a wrench for the three hub retaining bolts!!!

You will need to remove the rear knuckle to get at this properly.

On the rear any of the hubs should work.

Installed rear shot:

Okay, that was a time killer, but really straight forward so far... Now for the stock rotors!
I used a rear hub and "impacted"/air chiseled the studs out to use for the template to drill the rotors.

 

[Pillow]

Then to the drill press: 4 will drill very easily! One will be a PITA as it is whoring out an existing hole so the bit will wander. Be patient and slow, then clean the hole with a grinding bit to clean the edges.

Then get your ish rolled!

Then go wide! 245 vs 275 rears

fin!

----------

This can be super expensive or cheap depending on how you approach the job. Wheels are generally the largest cost factor.

----------

Ack, title should be 5x120!

 

[ctsv247]

Nice write up. thanks for your time.

How much did you spend???

 

[AAIIIC]

Ack, title should be 5x120!

Fixed.

And the deal with using the re-drilled stock rotors (rather than Camaro SS rotors or V2 rotors) is the diameter of the parking brake is different, right?

 

[Pillow]

Thanks for the title fix AAIIIC!

As for cost... $380 or less for the 5x120 conversion. $80 machining costs for the front rotors. $100 for a local full set of take-off SS rotors, owner went cross-drilled. $160-200 F & R for el cheapo XLR e-bay hub assemblies. Plus wheels + tires + brake pads (which you should do at this time, Hawk HP+ FTW)... Even though one part is on the cheap, the overall still adds up. My logic was that this conversion and wheels that I chose are comperable to the Forgestar wheels, which IMO aren't a great look for our body styles. On the ultra cheap you could use Corvette front wheels or XLR wheels used as no one wants them as the fitment is Corvette only.

As for the rear SS rotors:
1. The parking brake is larger and will not mate-up/function. (one person here has had a custom e-brake pad made to solve this issue, but it is a lot of extra meat IMO)
2. The SS rotor hits the rear dust backing plate. Unless shaving the rear e-brake lip on the rotor I do not see how it couldn't rub/interfear. Sorry, I missed taking a photo of this.
3. The inner hub dia of the rotor will need machined out to 70.2 to match the XLR/Corvette hubs. (+machining costs)
4. Otherwise, the SS rears line up with the caliper just fine. So if you have no need for an e-brake its possible, but for a daily I cannot imagine not having an e-brake for safety.

Please let me know if you all have additional questions!

Cheers!

 

[MarkOne]

Nice job! The only thing stopping me from doing this is the e-brake no longer being function-able.

 

[2005_CTS-V]

Could you do the same for the front rotor and use the stock V1 and drill the holes out like the rear?

 

[Pillow]

MarkOne, please reread this thread. The way I do it the e-brake is 100% functional like stock.

2005_CTS-V, It should be possible. But the SS rotors are cheap enough that it is good insurance just to go new or close to new. I am sure some SS power junkie wants drilled rotors for no apparent reason in your area too

 

[MarkOne]

MarkOne, please reread this thread. The way I do it the e-brake is 100% functional like stock.

Doh, my mistake!

its great to see an affordable & functional 5 lug conversion is within reach for many of us dying to make the switch!

 

[CTSV4VETTE]

Has anyone other than Pillow do this conversion? I pulled all the listed parts and the tangs on the new hubs seem like they will not allow the reinstall on the hub mount

 

[TST_Brah]

Has anyone other than Pillow do this conversion? I pulled all the listed parts and the tangs on the new hubs seem like they will not allow the reinstall on the hub mount

Just went through this when replacing my RF for a second time due to a blown shock. Previously had a Timken which came clocked properly off the shelf, then bought a replacement Moog (51319 iirc, same stock number as the Timken) off Amazon as it was the cheapest option. When it came it, the lead was aligned with a bolt hole instead of between them.

For the fronts, you can very carefully pry the blue sensor pickup/seal off the back of the bearing and align in the proper orientation. There is no physical connection between the pickup/seal and the actual part itself besides the press fit that's holding it on. I've put about 100 mile on it so far with no issue.

I got the Moog because the pair of used ones I got off a buddy who's building his C6 into a dedicated race car were not clocked properly. After finding this out I told him I'd take them back off his hands again. $100 for a pair of hubs, couldn't pass it up.

 

[4.6gt-2-ls1ta]

Hi Pillow, I know this thread is as old as dirt but could you tell me the wheels you had or have on your car. What are the complete specs too any spacers or straight bolt-on? Trying to decide on some new wheels for my 5 lug 2005 V. Thanks