Cadillac Owners Forum banner
41 - 45 of 45 Posts

· Registered
07 CTS-V
Joined
·
348 Posts
I did mine today along with the VooDoo chicken carrier bearing. No more clunk is a great thing. I cut mine on the bandsaw at 2.46 inches and it was a tight fit into the frame slot but the floor jack coaxed it in. Works perfectly. Super easy and cheap mod. Already put about 200 miles on it. Very happy.
 

· Registered
2006 SRX V8
Joined
·
3 Posts
I did this on my SRX a few months ago but I used a different bushing. The rear lower control arm bushing for a 74-79 Malibu/El Camino/etc. is a direct fit with no trimming required. I used energy suspension 3.3167G that comes with 2 of the bushings plus two smaller ones. You may be able to buy just one bushing from the company but I happened to have these already so I didn't try. Don't use the metal outer shell. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-3-3167g/overview/

I didn't drop the exhaust I just unbolted the diff and rotated it enough to remove the old and insert the new. You should disconnect the rubber hangers at the back of the exhaust so it can drop a little. It took hardly any time at all and fixed the problem completely.
 

· Registered
2002 Escalade & 2008 STS-V
Joined
·
36 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Just did this and it can be done without dropping the anything but the diff itself. Just 3- 13/16 bolts.
Basics:
The origional sleeve is 2.402 inches.(Get yours as square and flat as possible)
The rubber bushing can be anything shorter.
(Cut 5/8ths+ off one bushing - ugly is fine)
Rear suspension must be compressed or the axles won't let the diff drop enough to replace the bushing. I used wood 4x4s under the rear tires (6" lift would probably be better) and jackstands on the front and rearward mid frame.
Process:
Hang a 13/16 wrench on the front bushing nut and use a 1/2 breaker or impact w/20" extension w/13/16 universal to remove the nut leaving the bolt in place.
break the 2 rear bolts lose then use 1 3/8 drive 13/16 universal w/extension until there's no more clearance then use a jack on the diff to take the load off for the last few threads by hand or wrench and leave them rearward in the holes.
Work the jack to get the front bolt out then drop the diff just enough to access the front bushing. Seems like most come rightout like mine did. Scrape out any big chunks left in the outer sleeve the start the new bushings by hand and finish them in with a small hammer. I used spray silicone but I'm not sure it's needed.
Jack the diff back up using a large prybar/screwdriver to get the front bolt in (not tight) then use the jack/prybar to get the rear bolts started by hand.
With the 3 bolts in FULLY but not tight lift the diff with the jack and drop quickly. Tighten the bolts fully and enjoy the ride...

Thanks to the OP and others for making this so easy!
 
41 - 45 of 45 Posts
Top