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seville sls
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Hello I have the dreaded climate control stuck on floor vent not able to switch to face vents or defrost.Blend doors need to be changed. I removed the entire dash but could not get behind the metal barrier were the hvac is located. I removed all visible bolts. There must be some hidden that I could not find. where are they?Are they located in the engine compartment any diagrams would be great.pictures also someone out there must know.Please Help.
 

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08 CTS DI
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Hello I have the dreaded climate control stuck on floor vent not able to switch to face vents or defrost.Blend doors need to be changed. I removed the entire dash but could not get behind the metal barrier were the hvac is located. I removed all visible bolts. There must be some hidden that I could not find. where are they?Are they located in the engine compartment any diagrams would be great.pictures also someone out there must know.Please Help.
Posting good pictures would be very helpful. I'm working on the same thing in an 08, but unplugged mine to stop the noise as it appeared to still function otherwise. I'm working on removing it without removing the dash.

Reach out to niceguyeddie near the bottom of this thread; https://www.cadillacforums.com/foru...066774-08-cts-passenger-blend-door-motor.html
 

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2011 CTS Coupe FE3, 2003 Thunderbird, Gone 2013 ATS, 02 Deville
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2,925 Posts
If you have a library card go on line to your library and find the Chilton repair manual, I get all my info there with pictures and step by step directions.
 

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2010 CTS
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36 Posts
I never took the metal carrier completely out for the mode door actuator job, I just loosened it enough to be able to get a low profile screwdriver onto the actuator screws. It's really just one screw on the that's the troublemaker as I recall. You should be able to take off all the nuts and/or bolts off the carrier and pull it back to get the clearance. You only really need to pull it back a couple inches to get a ratcheting screwdriver on it. All the screws to loosen the carrier are easily accessible from the cabin when the dash is out. This is the ratcheting screwdriver I used:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A...arters/dp/B000XYOUS6?tag=cadillacforumscon-20

I don't remember exactly why I didn't take out the whole metal carrier, probably because there were too many other things connected to it, like wiring harnesses and what-not. I did lay with my back on the passenger side floor, legs out the door, to reach up to use the aforementioned screwdriver and see what I was doing. Patience was required.
 

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Go ahead, blame me. Everybody does 🙄
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They don't call him niceguyeddie for nuthin'! :2thumbs:
 
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2010 CTS
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36 Posts
Oh also some other things I thought of as is comes back to me:

As I mentioned in the other post Joseph linked, it's super helpful to have someone look in through the dash when you trying to reconnect the linkage... more patience required.

Also important, before reinstalling the dash, I had questioned about whether everything went in properly. I didn't want reinstall everything without confidence that it was all working. You really can't "actuate" the mechanism by hand after to you assemble it to make sure none of the linkage was binding. And since all that was a bit tricky to get re-installed and because the HVAC box sort has to be properly fitted to the carrier, what I thought I'd do was reconnected the front/HVAC control panel without the dashboard being in to see if the mode door (vent/floor) action was properly working before starting reassembly. I was able to do this with a lot of electrical components disconnected, like I may not have even had the navigation system connected, I can't remember exactly! probably air bags disconnected, etc. But after I saw everything working properly it gave me a "warm fuzzy" that I was on my way to being done with this PITA of a job!... then started reassembly.

Also want to change my statement about laying on my back. That was useful for getting an eye on the subject, but I think I was on my knees on the ground outside the passenger door while using the screwdriver and peeking through the holes in the carrier to get an eye on the screws.
 

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Go ahead, blame me. Everybody does 🙄
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LOL, you know where that name's from? You ever see that movie Reservoir Dogs (director Quentin Tarantino)? It's one of the character in that movie. Anyway, I guess that was the best thing I would come up with 9 yrs ago. I'm having some buyers remorse now on it :^)
Well, he DID drive a Caddy. The 'nice guy' part is subjective.
What? Was the username Mr. Pink taken? :duck:
 

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08 CTS DI
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3,399 Posts
I thought the mode door is up high on the drivers side?
Nope, it's up high on the right.
I found a thread here where it was replaced in a first gen STS without removing the dash here, two individuals took the approach, the member half way down confirmed success;

https://www.cadillacforums.com/foru...1369-mode-actuator-instillation-2005-sts.html

I'm not risking an attempt at breaking the upper tab in the manner they did, out of fear I could possibly damage the mount peg since the last attempt at trying to loosen the upper screw was successful and permitted me to rotate the actuator counter clockwise off of its two lower mounts, where I noticed the upper mount point was a little flexible. I'm going to cut/melt the tab off when I start back to work on it.

Do yourself a favor and buy OE equipment, a cheap Azone, or Advance auto special might have you ready to drive the car through their front window in a short while. In my experience some of their off brand parts are not worth the risk due to early failure rates. Reminds me of my dad some years ago. He is a strong Christian man, who passed on a lot of his skills to me. One day as a young man, I got too close to him and his tool box with a "Made in China" wrench and he nearly cussed me out telling me to "get that thing away from here". It took smashing my hand once from one failing under a high torque load to understand. I still have most of my 300 piece Craftsman tool set purchased 27 yrs ago after that incident as a result. I have no problem throwing the "knuckle buster" tools in the trash when I come across them.
 

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Hello I have the dreaded climate control stuck on floor vent not able to switch to face vents or defrost.Blend doors need to be changed. I removed the entire dash but could not get behind the metal barrier were the hvac is located. I removed all visible bolts. There must be some hidden that I could not find. where are they?Are they located in the engine compartment any diagrams would be great.pictures also someone out there must know.Please Help.
I need to find out too am trying to replace expansion valve
 

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2011 CTS coupe 1989 Allante
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6,055 Posts
You need GM document ID 2132603 HVAC Module Assembly Replacement is page 58-69 in the HVAC section.
Expansion valve replacement is ID 2106043 Air Conditioning Evaporator Thermal Expansion Valve Replacement
Of course the first instruction is 1. Remove the HVAC module.
 

· Banned
2009 SRX V6 RWD, 2011 CTS Premium Coupe
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806 Posts
Nope, it's up high on the right.
I found a thread here where it was replaced in a first gen STS without removing the dash here, two individuals took the approach, the member half way down confirmed success;

Mode actuator instillation 2005 STS

I'm not risking an attempt at breaking the upper tab in the manner they did, out of fear I could possibly damage the mount peg since the last attempt at trying to loosen the upper screw was successful and permitted me to rotate the actuator counter clockwise off of its two lower mounts, where I noticed the upper mount point was a little flexible. I'm going to cut/melt the tab off when I start back to work on it.

Do yourself a favor and buy OE equipment, a cheap Azone, or Advance auto special might have you ready to drive the car through their front window in a short while. In my experience some of their off brand parts are not worth the risk due to early failure rates. Reminds me of my dad some years ago. He is a strong Christian man, who passed on a lot of his skills to me. One day as a young man, I got too close to him and his tool box with a "Made in China" wrench and he nearly cussed me out telling me to "get that thing away from here". It took smashing my hand once from one failing under a high torque load to understand. I still have most of my 300 piece Craftsman tool set purchased 27 yrs ago after that incident as a result. I have no problem throwing the "knuckle buster" tools in the trash when I come across them.
Which is why we all need to buy things from what's left of Sears, regardless of their financial mismanagement or how much I hated working there as a teenager. If there's another lifetime warranty brand left on the planet besides Craftsman, I'm unaware of it.
 

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2011 CTS Coupe FE3, 2003 Thunderbird, Gone 2013 ATS, 02 Deville
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2,925 Posts
Which is why we all need to buy things from what's left of Sears, regardless of their financial mismanagement or how much I hated working there as a teenager. If there's another lifetime warranty brand left on the planet besides Craftsman, I'm unaware of it.
There are so many things you don't know.
And they did not name the best, "Snap-On-Tools"
 

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2009 SRX V6 RWD, 2011 CTS Premium Coupe
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There are so many things you don't know.
And they did not name the best, "Snap-On-Tools"
1. I SAID I was "unaware."

2. The unaware part was of the warranties, not the brands. It's funny to see a website calling itself "penny hoarder" espousing companies that sell $20 pairs of socks and $200 teddy bears. Myself, I'd rather sit in an empty house in my underwear.

And Snap-On was too pricey for even them.
 

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2011 CTS Coupe FE3, 2003 Thunderbird, Gone 2013 ATS, 02 Deville
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2,925 Posts
When I was a mechanic, till 1979, I only bought Snap-On, Now I could not afford them. I looked up what my set of 3/8" drives rachets/sockets would cost new today, it was over $3,000.00 My combination wrench, open-end/box-end 1 1/2" cost $160.00 one wrench.
 
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