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Discussion Starter #1
92 deville
noticed my inner cv boots are cracked an leaking. also have a grinding/clicking sound when makeing a u-turn or sharp turn. so i think the cv joints might be worn or just bad. two questions. 1st - besides the boot leaking and the clicking noise is there any other way to tell if cv joints are bad? 2nd - anyone here replace these? is the job difficult? seems simple enuff but just wondering if anyone has changed theirs on a 91-93 deville?

thanks
 

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usually those 2 are the best signs there are of a bad cv joint once the boot tears water gets in and messes with the bearing etc.

noise while turning is also another tell tale sign

The easiest would be to jack up the front of the car and press on the gas while turning and listen under it.

either way youll have to replace the boots to prevent further damage so just replace the whole cv instead
 

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13 Challenger RT, 11 CTS Coupe Premium, 94 Eldorado (RIP)
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You don't need any more signs than what you got. They are shot. The job isn't too hard. You need what your thread title suggests...half shafts. I havn't done them on a cadillac, did a nissan years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
kool. thanks. ya i broke down an bought a pair today. they r 2 diff lengths. is that normal? also one side has a male connection to tha trans and the other a femal. since i havent removed tha old ones yet not sure if this is rite or was i given tha wrong parts?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks. sorry dumb ? i missed a page in the FSM. RH side has male connector and LH side has femal connector.
 

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it is possible ur thinking about the struts being done one at a time

as far as the alignment I've never heard this before regarding cv shafts but if your steering is affected then do an alignment
 

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Discussion Starter #10
we u will need to undo the ball joints an maybe the stab links so a alignment would prob be good. ya u should do one at a time. u could loose ur trans alignment or something. also FSM says to trun wheel to right if removing tha left an vice versa.
 

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88 Sedan Deville, 89 Eldorado, 11 SRX, 18 CT6
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it's not all that hard to do. just a little tedious. yes, both sides are diff lengths / type. normal. your tranny isnt dead center, so they should not be equal. I would recommend an alignment as there is a chance of knocking something out of whack... plus, i think mine went bad because they werent aligned... too much toe in, excessive pressure on the joints, etc etc etc....

you probably dont care, but when i did that, i changed my front, rear (air) struts, since i was there, i changed my brake pads, rotors, drums, and shoes, as well as all 4 tires, had them balanced (brought to a shop) and then brought back to the shop for a 4 wheel computer alignment. spent less then 75 bucks on labor because i did it all myself ( 1988 sedan deville) minus the alignment and balance/mount tires to rim. i find doing it this way, i can put higher quality parts (oem / ac delco / etc) instead of most of my bill going to labor, it goes into something that lasts longer.

just my two cents, ya can take it to the bank, or leave it


phil
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ya its got new struts(monroe), ball joints, sway bar bushings an links, rotorss(crossdrilled) n pads, tie rod ends. i will be doin it my self friend works at minekee an he lets me use the lift(thanks jon). deff agree on the alignment part. i might aw well get the tires rotoated and blalanced. thanks for tha info.
 

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Having the alignment checked is okay, but not really required depending on what method you use to remove the axles.
If you have a lift you are in great shape.

Let's start from the top though....
Leaking boots need to be replaced. Usually a click or loud snapping when turning is an indicator of the outer joints being bad. The inner joints see some extra work during turns but they are not the ones flexing. They are made to move in and out for upward/downward movement of the suspension.
If you were to take them apart you'd see lots and lots of needle bearings in there. It's not impossible that there is some damage in there but most CV joints are tougher than most folks think. If you already have new axles, just put them in.

Doing one side at a time is a good idea. I usually unhook the outer tie rod end, undo the lower ball joint and swing the knuckle out of the way. This is easier on a lift by far. If you want to undo the sway bar link arm you can do that so you can move the control arm down to swing the knuckle out.
Otherwise you just need a nice big pry bar (and I mean big). The hardest part is actually removing the axles from the transmission. It can be quite a challenge, my biggest tip to you would be DON'T PRY ON THE CASE, BE SURE TO USE SOMETHING SOLID LIKE THE HEAD OF A BOLT, PRYING ON THE CASE SIDE COVER CAN CRACK IT! Then you are in a world of hurt.
Apart from that it's easy. Remember not to mess with taking the shafts apart, those probably have core value on them, they want them back.

If the car was aligned and all you unhook is the lower ball joint, you don't need to align it again. It never hurts to have the alignment checked though so if you have the money you might do it anyway.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks for tha post. excuse my mental illness but what do u mean by case? im guessing the trans correct? not the CV joint housing. the is a small lip on the inner joint which looks like it can be used. so we will see. planin on doem thursday. the inner boots are leaking but i was havin the clickin sound way b4 that. though sometin was rubbing but i suspect the cv joints now after doin research. would there be excesize vibration if tha inner joint where bad?
 

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I am not sure I have ever seen a bad inner joint, not sure what kind of noise you'd end up with. It wouldn't be good that's for sure.

Yes I meant the trans case. If it's a northstar you have the 4T80-E and even though the side cover looks sturdy, if you use it to pry on you can crack it wide open.

If the inner joint has a "groove" in the three raised sections, I usually put the tip of a prybar in there and whack the bar with a hammer. That usually breaks them loose real easy. If this is a 4.9 then you have a 4L60-E and it's not really an issue because there is really nowhere to pry.
I think you'll be just fine. If any of you do a northstar car, don't pry against the trans case cover, it can crack right in two and that is bad!

Just make sure to look around in there while you are working and take care of anything you might see.
 

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I've done minea few months back, only on passenger side. I had previously done ball joint there, so I just had to undo the 3 bolts that connect the ball joint to the spindle, and tie rod end. This made enough room to wiggle the strut to get the axle in and out. If you still have the factory ball joint (with the original rivets) then just undo the strut bolts and tie rod end to get yourself enough room to get the axle out. If you take this route, then you'll need alignment afterwards. If all goes well, it shouldn't take much more than 1-1.5 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
thanks. ya i'll be taking on this venture tomorrow some hopefully all goes well. seems like it should be simple enuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
yo so i finally go some new half shafts in. i got 1 pair but they where all wrong so I had to put my old ones back in and takem back. but the new ones i got are good. way easier to put on when u have the right parts. seems to be a nice improvement. at least there wont be green grease everywhere. pretty simple only undid the lower ball joints and brake hose bracket. slidem to the side and wa la. but did notice this moring pulling off from being parked on the street(parrallel) there was that damn crunching noise. deff not as bad or as load as i had to turn the stereo all the way down to hear it. maybe the grease needs to get worked in a lil? maybe the remans r bad too? dont kno ima put some more miles onm first. u think the tires could be rubbn when i turn the wheel all the way to the right to get out of the spot and then back to the left to straightn out????
 

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if htey are aftermarket rims they can definitely be rubbing on full turns

You can check this be removing the wheel and looking at the inside of the wheel for any marks of contact.
 
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