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Discussion Starter #1
After many hours of pondering what to do w/ my intake as far as upgrading it, I came up with what I think is an awesome idea for and intake, and it's free :)

Ok, so, remove all the piping of your intake from the airbos and on. By this I mean, silencer and the other portion that snakes around the car (on my 94 seville STS, anyways). Then, take out your airbox and grab a saw. Cut the bottom of the airbox out so it's just a huge open area to the air filter. The surface area is just as much if not MORE than a cone filter. The air filter still fits inside the desired place. So... in summary, take the bottom half of the airbox and make it completely open to air by cutting off part of the plastic. I'll see if I can get a pic sometimes today and post it. But, I have class right now. Lemme know what you guys think. Lata.
 

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Funny.....I was thinkin' the same thing!
 

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I'd be looking for a way to get the cooler outside air in the quantitys you're looking for into the airbox. Possibly fabricate an intake tube to route air from outside the engine compartment to where you need it to go! The thing that you need to remember is that these cars are already engineered to run very well and the systems you're playing with are pretty delicately balanced if you mess around with one you can throw something out of whack on down the line. It is NOT uncommon to see a guy LOSE power by changing things he does not FULLY understand. Be careful what you change.
 

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well said KC. the idea of modifying your filter and intake is to get it away for the engine heat. So idealy you would either get it through a scoop through the fender or down under the front air dam area. You improoved the flow to the filter but Im afraid you got the air from the wrong place
 

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Devil_concours said:
i also heard that ram air nearly useless unless you travel at high rate of speed. I've had some good result on my gtp when i moved the intake down near the front fender.
true, the real advantage of Ram Air is to get fresh cool air in there, Not force air in like a blower even though its marketed like that
 

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the internal combustion engine is a large air pump the more air you can move in and out the more power you make. so make the intake flow and exhaust flow and you have power

Blowers have the disadvantage of using power form the engine to turn

Turbos use exhaust to power it self as long as you dont creat too much back presure

N20 itself doesnt burn but it cools the incomming air making it more dense and adding another molecule of oxygen

these methods are the most popular way of gettin gbang for the buck
 

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The easiest thing for you to do is to construct a box around the filter that seals to the underside of the hood when closed. This will make the filter draw through the OEM path and NOT from the engine compartment. This is basically what the K&N kit does around the cone filter.
As for Ram-Air effect and/or forced-induction systems, Passive types such as standard ram-air can be effective as long as the duct is placed in the proper area. You need to have it in a "high-pressure" area such as the cowel area, or the front facia.
Turbos are nice because it's basically free energy but they bring high heat loads to your motor oil, and engine compartment. And they are of little use at low throttle angles.
Superchargers on the other hand pose a substantial parasitic load on the engine but are power builders at ALL throttle angles and don't substantially increase heat loads beyond the actual combustion chambers.
 

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The point being, DO IT RIGHT or DON'T DO IT at all. Custom isn't always better, Sometimes it's better, Sometimes it's just different and Sometimes it's worse. It's not like throwing a set of headers on your old Chevelle anymore, Now you have to put a little more thought into engine mods....No matter how minor!
 

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Maybe a little...But it doesn't really address the ambient air temperature in the engine compartment. If you want cooler intake air you have to go outside the engine compartment to get it! when I refered to fabricating a tube or something like that earlier I was more interested in getting at the cooler air than at any kind of ram air benefit.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, I've ran w/o an intake at all before and it helped a LOT. So, I'm not sure it's hurting too much. Also, haven't you seen the stock intake set up? The air isn't exactly cold using that setup :)
It works, it feels a lot better when driving, and I'm happy w/ it. I understand the principle of cold air induction, however, how is the K&N cone filter idea draw any colder air than my setup?
 

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I know this will strike out with young hotrodders, but hacksaw tech and airflow were done to no avail, many years ago. The stock 95 sls air box draws from the LF behind the lower bumper. The chamber is shaped to 'quiet' or 'still' .and present cool air prior to engine demand. Also airflow does not like abrupt changes in direction. Radiused shapes are best for sure. I may be an old man, but I have been porting for 30 years and currently use a SF 600 bench to mod and improve. The engine sees fuel as well as air and how well they blend as they enter combustion chamber is 'muy importante'. Just cause it sounds better..i.e (big moaning noise) does not mean more power. Also, buying long cam profiles from people who run 1500 lb sand buggies, won't work well in 2 ton sedans. Best mod is still putting your sled on a diet. Lose 500 pounds and see.


Old Racer
 

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The K&N setup seals the cone filter in a box that then is forced to pull air in through the OEM hole in the body. Unless you hadn't noticed the OEM box doesn't just sit in the engine compartment and suck in hot air, it pulls it from a hole in the body that leads OUT of the engine compartment.
Yes, you will see a HP improvement by running NO filter at all BUT, I don't think you want to run like that all the time. Plus, as soon as you removed the air inlet completely, you threw the PCM a curve that it will "learn" out to a degree over some time.
The secret is to modify the inlet/exhaust combination to maximize the engine's performance WITHIN the tuning parameters setup in the PCM. Beyond that, you're just wasting your time and money unless you can get the programming changed.
 

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