[Rolex]

***Notification***
The numerous 2nd gen CTS document "links" that were embedded into this thread in the past by me, as well as into several other 2008+ CTS forum threads, by me, have been severed, by me, on this date because of my disapproval of Cadillac Forum censorship and heavy handedness. Going forward.. good luck to all members in finding the various historical reference and technical documents on the 2008+ CTS that you may be looking for. (I would imagine Google is a good place to start). You may direct any inquiries in this particular regard to forum moderators.
Cheers RAB

Linking to old color brochures vs. links to file sharing websites that contain software downloads, I may be the only one that sees a significant difference between the two. I don't know whether your previous link in the other thread contains licensed software or not, because I'm not going to download it to find out. The reason I air on the side of caution (for your sake and this website's) regarding software downloads is because of the Federal Net Act and it's outrageous criminal and civil penalties.

The US government puts people in the federal penitentiary for sharing links to software downloads on web pages. Our government has even successfully extradited foreign citizens to the US for federal prosecution. Even if you don't stand to profit from sharing materials it's still punishable by jail time and six-figure fines. If you break the links to color brochures out of frustration to my "heavy handedness," so be it. Believe me or not, I'm trying to look out for everyone's best interests. That includes you. :cheers:

 

[toothpaste]

DIY threads w/pics for the front and rear Differential fluid change:

Front: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...sion/331066-diy-front-diff-pic-pic-fluid.html

Rear: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...iscussion/331058-diy-rear-diff-w-lsd-pic.html

According to this post - http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...ar-differential-fluid-09-awd.html#post2816550 - the Slip Lock Differential Additive is only needed for cars with the limited slip differential. To determine whether or not your car has the limited slip differential, check your RPO sticker for code "G80": http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...ar-differential-fluid-09-awd.html#post2817972

FYI: the diff change procedure above is for an '08 and the code for the limited slip differential is for an '09. It probably hasnt changed over the years but did want to mention the difference.

Trans Fluid Flush:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...81-2008-up-cts-transmission-fluid-change.html

Just an FYI, this DIY thread does not involve the dropping of the pan, changing the gasket nor the trans oil filter. The following post within the thread addresses this: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...s-transmission-fluid-change.html#post16051265

Transfer case fluid drain fill procedure: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...2793-need-transfer-case-fluid-drain-fill.html

DIY replacement of the input/output shaft: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...-another-awd-stripped-input-output-shaft.html

Related to the transmission/transfer case failures discussed in the following threads:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...254189-transmission-transfer-case-issues.html
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...n/285935-my-cts-died-today-what-happened.html

 

[AAIIIC]

Thanks for all the inputs, I've added them to the initial post. If you find a better thread for the transmission fluid change, post it up; I updated the link in the first post so it goes to CTSM's post in that thread, which appears to be a more accurate procedure than the original post.

 

[CaddyFred]

Broken power outlet easy fix

The first day I had my new-to-me CTS I opened the cover on the dash power outlet to plug in my USB charger and much to my dismay, the cover fell off. When I pulled the charger out the power outlet socket came with it. My heart sank a little at this additional reminder that I had just bought a 9 year old car. However no big deal, just leave the charger plugged in and forget about it.

But I didn't forget completely. I searched the www and found this little beauty at Amazon (GM 20983936) for the paltry sum of $5.57, yippy! Then I found this great little video that showed how easy it is to replace the power outlet trim ring/cover without removing any dash panels. Today the part arrived and I installed it in about 5 minutes. Following are a few pointers that may help should you want to do this easy fix yourself.

1) Remove the socket first by depressing the 2 locking tabs with a small screwdriver.
2) Remove the trim ring by pulling out
3) Disconnect the harness plug from the socket but do not let the plug fall inside the opening! If you do (I did) hemostats work great to retrieve it. No stats, maybe a coat hanger?
4) Install the new trim ring with the hinge on the right.
5) Reconnect the power plug to the socket.
6) Note that the socket has ridges that align with 3 grooves in the trim ring.
7) Reinstall the socket until it clicks in place.
8) Close the cover and have a beer.

Pretty trivial DIY but I figure that if I didn't know how cheap and easy it was to fix this little annoyance, there might be others. I hope this helps someone.

 

[davedogcaddy]

How to replace the Windshield Washer Nozzles on the Cadillac CTS:

 

[Long]

ThunderCad's panoramic sunroof drain modification thread. It belongs here:

Stop the (soaking carpet) Insanity Forever! - Ultraview...

Hey everyone, I think I may have figured how to keep your Ultraview roof equipped CTS bone dry regardless of the cloudburst or carwash. Earlier this Spring I was cleaning the interior of my car and heard the definite sound of stepping in water when i put my foot down behind the driver's seat...

www.cadillacforums.com

 

[Long]

Top 5 mechanical issues with the 2nd Gen CTS (Outside of the aforementioned sunroof drains)...

 

[dandunham]

Water pump replacement video.

 

[davedogcaddy]

Here are the rest of my CTS DIY videos:

Cadillac CTS Rear Seat Removal & Bluetooth Upgrade Guide

2008-2014 Cadillac CTS Door Actuator Removal & Replacement Guide

2008-2014 Cadillac CTS Engine Mount Removal & Replacement Guide!

2008-2014 Cadillac CTS Water Pump Replacement Guide

Cadillac CTS Door Handle Repair (Micro Switches Replacement)

 

[wcthunder]

Check for recalls:
Check for Recalls: Vehicle, Car Seat, Tire, Equipment | NHTSA

 

[davedogcaddy]

Here is a guide I put together on replacing the 2nd Gen CTS driver's side blend door actuator (motor) - if you have having issues with one side blowing only hot or cold air this is for you. Also covers basic troubleshooting of all the HVAC actuators.

 

[NorthernSRX]

13 model years worth of CTS brochures in PDF form available for download: Auto-Brochures.com|Cadillac Car & Truck PDF Sales Brochure

Oh yeah, and brochures for other Cadillac models too...

 

[Long]

Replacing a driver door actuator & mirror assembly on a CTS sedan

My driver door had been functioning intermittently for the last month or so and I immediately chalked it up to bad handle assembly microswitches. However, after crude troubleshooting I concluded that it was actually the door actuator that was failing.
In my case, the problem presented the same as microswitch failure- the door would open from the outside with the key and also by using the inside handle. On instances where it would actually open as designed, I took note that repeatedly pulling the exterior handle resulted in a progressively weakening actuator noise for ~3-5 pulls before it ceased altogether. Testing the opposite side door produced a consistent loud ratcheting sound that did not fade.

So, a quick writeup on the procedure which is relatively simple and easier than replacing a microswitch handle assembly:

1. Remove the small panel behind the interior release handle and the bottom of the armrest using a plastic pry tool or a flat blade screwdriver. This will expose the 3 Phillips screws that hold the door panel on. Once removed, pull the door panel off and disconnect the handle assembly cord by squeezing the gray side tabs. Now the door panel is free and you can peel the water shield towards the front of the door to gain access to the actuator.

2. Use a T-30 bit to remove the 2 fasteners holding the actuator to the door. You may have to push the weatherstripping out of the way to loosen the upper fastener.

3. Inside the driver door cavity you will see the lock rod attached to the actuator by a small yellow buckle. Open the buckle and drop the rod out. Now you can pull the actuator out of the door cavity to disconnect the wiring harness and release cable. The release cable at the actuator is essentially the same as it attaches to the door panel-squeeze the gray side tabs with needle nose pliers to release it from the actuator. The wiring harness is a squeeze type lock which pulls out to release the connector.

4. Compare your new part to the original to ensure you have the correct item and reverse the procedure to install the new unit. Remember, the new actuator will not function until the door panel has been replaced.

All in all, it was a very easy job- maybe 20 minutes. Use caution when replacing the door panel to ensure that all the tabs are lined up and the upper portion is resting on the horizontal channel. Also, don't leave your work light inside the door panel and wonder where you put it down afterwards.

The new actuator works perfectly and provides a solid 'pop' when pulling on the exterior handle now.

BONUS: MIRROR REPLACEMENT INSTRUCTIONS--

Replacement of the mirror is super easy once the door panel has been lifted from the door itself. At the front of the door is a plastic triangular piece that covers the attachment points. Using a trim tool, lift the plastic plug that holds it down and pull it up towards the top of the door to reveal the three 10mm bolts. Disconnect the wiring harness, remove the 10mm bolts and the mirror is free.

Reverse the process for installation. Easy peasy.

 

[davedogcaddy]

Decided to upgrade my halogen headlights to LED, so I made this guide on how to remove the front bumper cover & pull the headlights:

 

[HurstGN]

Another nice video Dave. A couple points.
The bolts inside the fender, at the core support, and attaching the headlight to the fender are all 10mm, not 8mm as stated in the disassembly part of the video.
If you turn the wheels full lock one direction, it gives plenty of room to remove 2 more of the push-connectors inside the wheel well. This allows moving the inner fender well plastic much easier to reach the bolt inside the fender.
Before pulling or replacing the bumper cover, it's a good idea to pull the side of the bumper out and cover it with a microfiber cloth to prevent scratching the paint as the bumper cover will easily contact the paint when removed and replaced.
When disconnecting the headlight wiring connector, you are mussing the gray locking clip that is intended to prevent the connector from vibrating loose while driving.

 

[Long]

Taillight fixes for CTS wagons

rcubed3r's WAGON TAILLIGHT FIX. Easy and hidden!

Like most if not all wagon owners, my taillights warp over time and pull away from the body, breaking the flimsy plastic hook that is supposed to hold them near the top of the light. These two pictures show the issue. The temperature was comfortable on this day, so the lights are closer to the...

www.cadillacforums.com

 

[NorthernSRX]

Hoist Lifting Guide - A very comprehensive guide for shops, covering lift points on a pretty complete list of vehicles. We're on page 32: Hoist Lifting Guide 2016 Pt1

 

[Lifespeed]

Alternator Diagnosis and repair:

Note these alternators can fail in a way (partially failed rectifier diode bridge) where they still charge the battery, but are weak. The best way I know to check it is to discharge the battery somewhat by turning on the headlights for a few minutes, then start the car and drive it around while watching for the voltage (shown in the Driver Information Center, DIC) to reach 14.9V - 15.0V for 10 - 15 minutes while pushing the battery to a full state of charge. If it only goes to 14.6V or so, it isn't good.

A power steering warning indication is a common symptom of low voltage, often caused by a weak alternator. Note that a car with a weak alternator can continue functioning indefinitely, depending on the electrical load, kind of like a game of battery roulette. The fact that your car still starts in the morning does not prove the alternator is OK.

The least-expensive and often most reliable fix is to remove your OEM alternator and take it to an auto electric shop for a rebuild. The next best option is to buy an OEM alternator from one of many online dealers, which typically offer much better pricing than walking in to your local stealership.

The absolute worst option is a new or "rebuilt" alternator from one of the low-cost parts store scammers. These fail, or don't even work when installed, with alarming regularity.

 

[Long]

Comprehensive front bumper and headlight assembly removal & installation