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Ok so I have a charging issue after three alternator swaps and two belts it keeps saying service charging system. The first alternator didn’t even make it a hour the second made it a month this last one Same as the first. Anyone have any idea that would help me? It’s a 2012 CTS luxury with the 3.0
 

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08 CTS DI
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Welcome to the forum. More details would be helpful. Where are these alternators coming from and has anyone taken the time to investigate the connecting wires and plugs to make sure they're in good condition?
 

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Welcome to the forum. More details would be helpful. Where are these alternators coming from and has anyone taken the time to investigate the connecting wires and plugs to make sure they're in good condition?
Yes, more deets, please.
Are these alternators...New/used/rebuilt? Store brand/OEM?
Age & condition of your car's battery would be informative.

Also, are their any other problems you are experiencing with your CTS that you may have left out thinking they may not be important?
 

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It’s a 2012 as stated it’s got 150,000 the alternator is not oem but it is new and the best non oem one I could buy the battery was new last year I’m about to scream I’ve been battling this for 2 months now
 

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Did you test the battery? I don't care if it is 2 weeks old, test the battery.
 

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Where are these alternators coming from
150k miles on the original is good service, although the details surrounding its failure would still be of some help.

Two belts, why?

If each replacement turns off the error code for a while, that suggests each alternator worked for a while, OR, when you disconnected the battery for install, you reset the problem, rather than correcting it. That points to alternator control, which is either the body control module (BCM), or the PCM.

Are you sure you didn't damage, or knock anything loose in the battery compartment while preparing for install?

How were the remanufactured alternators tested upon return and confirmed to be in failed status?

Upon installation, did you follow the voltage output on the display and note the range of voltage output when good and bad, and if so, what was it?

Was there any discoloration on the B+ wire that bolts to the back of the alternator? Sometimes the terminal on that wire gets super heated during an alternator failure and damaged internally near the terminal. That causes poor continuity for the new alternator, which in turn overheats as a result of a poor connection that looks good.

At the moment it appears you need to try a different alternator source. I would pursue a used, or new OE alternator over a remanufactured alternator every time I needed a replacement, because there's no question about the quality.

For the next install, you should pull up the voltage on display and leave it there and watch it. While the motor is running, the voltage should range between 13-14.8v. If it's spending a lot of time in one area, especially at the high end and above 15 volts, you have a problem somewhere else. With the headlights on, you should see voltage around 14.6.

That's all I have for ideas aside from observing output for performance to clue me in on where to look next if voltage output behaves strange.
 

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The load test voltage doesn't appear to be all that bad. My understanding at this point is that if the voltage drops below about 10 volts during a load test, the battery needs to be replaced. This battery may be a little on the low side because it has been through apparently 3 bad alternators and probably hasn't received much of a charge since the last. It's possible, but I'm reluctant to look at the battery with that voltage as a source for the service charging system warning in the absence of any starting complaints, particularly if the warning is coming on while driving. It's been many years since I've observed a load test, but I distinctively recall voltage dropping below 12 volts routinely in the process, with focus on the extent of the drop and the recovery voltage. The load test is typically much harder on the battery than actual cranking, because of the length of time the load is applied, so the car may not be seeing a voltage drop from the reported 12.4v down to the 11.5v load test.

I could be wrong, we don't know the location to factor in the weather. About 2 weeks ago on a 30 deg morning, I heard "Old Faithful" AC Delco whimper on remote start after sitting for about two days, indicating this is its last Winter, but no follow up trouble otherwise.
 

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That's not a healthy battery
I should have elaborated instead of just giving my typical one-liner.
At the original measured 12.4V, the battery is performing at best, 25% discharged.
I've read that a batt can go as low as 9.6V and still pass a load test, but I can assure you, that battery wouldn't be in any of my vehicles. IMO, 11.5V is borderline, or wait for it...not healthy.

As far as load tests go, my HH unit takes less than 30 seconds and is as accurate as the commercial units; I've checked.

That battery needs at the very least a full charge. Joseph, I agree with you that the low readings could very well be from the stress of multiple subpar replacement alternaors, but I still wouldn't remove it from the list.
 

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I wonder if "Two belts", three bad alternators and intermittent, recurrent service charging system warnings could possibly be a bad tensioner and resulting slipping belt.
 

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I wonder if "Two belts", three bad alternators and intermittent, recurrent service charging system warnings could possibly be a bad tensioner and resulting slipping belt.
It certainly is not outside the realm of possibility.

Personally, three items I will never purchase that are parts store items (new or rebuilt) are: master cylinders, water pumps, and alternators. Generally, the satisfaction of money saved is quickly dissipated by the frustration of repeat repairs.
Give me a few more minutes to reminisce about working on cars as a youngster with my dad and I'm certain that number would increase. Oh, the words I heard without the aid of Google to define their meaning. Mr. Webster was of no assistance...
 

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You needed an anglo-saxon dictionary. No big words.
Nope. That particular brand of lollipop my father was always muttering about wouldn't be found in anything but The Urban Dictionary.
 

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I wonder if "Two belts", three bad alternators and intermittent, recurrent service charging system warnings could possibly be a bad tensioner and resulting slipping belt.
I was wondering the same thing. If Op had belt tensionor problems it would allow the belts to become too tight, too loose or both! this would create havoc on the alternator. Screwing up its input shaft, hence failure. IMO
 
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