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Billboards urge tourists to visit Alaska 'B4UDIE'





Tuesday, October 4, 2005; Posted: 11:02 a.m. EDT (15:02 GMT)


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The billboards are displayed in three locations around Seattle, Washington.​




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Alaska B4UDIE



ANCHORAGE, Alaska (AP) -- A new billboard campaign is reminding would-be tourists that someday it really could be too late to visit the northern frontier.


The billboards in Seattle, Washington; Los Angeles, California; and Minneapolis, Minnesota, proclaim "Alaska B4UDIE" -- or Alaska, before you die.

The Alaska Travel Industry Association launched the monthlong, $180,000 campaign Monday.

"People say time after time that Alaska is on the list of places they want to go," said association spokesman Dave Worrell. "We want to get people thinking about Alaska now rather than later."
 
The odds are better that you will be eaten by a grizzly bear in Alaska than being run over by a cab in Manhattan. Bring your mother-in-law and let her carry the meat sandwiches on the picnic.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Ok heres an update for you guys. I know around my area alarm/stereo places aren't that reputable but my friend used to install alarms and brought bme to his buddy. He says he can install a DE (viper/cliff/top brand all same company) auto start for 250.00. It uses your stock transmitter it won't interfere with memory package and it doesn't use a key blank. So hopefully get it installed next week see how it works I'll keep you posted.
 
The only question I would have is what do they do to increase the range? My stock fob has a range of maybe thirty feet which would be next to useless compared to my autostart of 1/4 mile.
 
Like I said the DEI 561t. $250 is too cheap and you are crazy to let someone who use to install touch the CTS! The unit is pretty cheap price wise but believe me it is one of the most difficult installs. You will regret using a bypass that does not use the key. I have had only one work properly. If I had to pick a tough car the CTS is it. I have over 30 years experience in the Auto Electronics business, believe me I know. You are going to have to pull the drivers door panel. Easy for someone that knows. Wait till he tries to run the wires through the boot. He will probably break the panel behind the handle. The instrument cluster needs to come out for the tach signal. The shroud around the steering shaft goes next. Wait till he can't figure out how to take the ignition cylinder out! Then the best is the brake signal. You need to get it from under the rear seat. The car does not use a brake switch but a sensor that measures the pressure you apply to the brakes. Then the ignition wires are 22 gauge, while the remote starts are 10 gauge. He will have to find the parking light wire, which is at the DIM. Like I said it is no fun at all. Do yourself a favor. Don't void the warranty on your car to save a buck. Let a seasoned pro do it. Find one, they do exist. Make sure they solder all the connections and have plenty of experience. I hate so called ex installers. They suck.


DanDan
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I wouldn't have my friend install it he knows somebody that installs for a large dealer and has been involved in alot of custom car shows. I know what you mean about letting just anyone touch the CTS that is why I thought of bringing it to the dealer taht way you know the outside person they have install has worked on the same car and that it would be covered because it is dealer installed. I'm still up in the air, but your post makes me even more nervous. DanDan where do you work? On the East Coast i hope. Send me an e-mail. And soldering I've done alot of custom light installs on cars and I'm not a big solder fan never had problems with insulated crimp connects. Just personal opinion though.
 
DanDan said:
Like I said the DEI 561t. $250 is too cheap and you are crazy to let someone who use to install touch the CTS! The unit is pretty cheap price wise but believe me it is one of the most difficult installs. You will regret using a bypass that does not use the key. I have had only one work properly. If I had to pick a tough car the CTS is it. I have over 30 years experience in the Auto Electronics business, believe me I know. You are going to have to pull the drivers door panel. Easy for someone that knows. Wait till he tries to run the wires through the boot. He will probably break the panel behind the handle. The instrument cluster needs to come out for the tach signal. The shroud around the steering shaft goes next. Wait till he can't figure out how to take the ignition cylinder out! Then the best is the brake signal. You need to get it from under the rear seat. The car does not use a brake switch but a sensor that measures the pressure you apply to the brakes. Then the ignition wires are 22 gauge, while the remote starts are 10 gauge. He will have to find the parking light wire, which is at the DIM. Like I said it is no fun at all. Do yourself a favor. Don't void the warranty on your car to save a buck. Let a seasoned pro do it. Find one, they do exist. Make sure they solder all the connections and have plenty of experience. I hate so called ex installers. They suck.


DanDan
Dan, have you done the install on a CTS before? If you have, would we be able to trouble you for an instructions write-up? I'm wondering just how hard it is, for an intermediate tuner who has done a good amount of work on cars before, to follow a well-written instructions write-up on how to install it. Somehow, I just don't trust the guys at my dealer or any of the aftermarket shops around here, and I doubt they would know how to do it on a CTS if it's this difficult. But if it's really recommended that I do take it to a professional, then I'm not one to jig around with it myself and I won't even start playing around with it. Sometimes I hate having such a new car... Anyhow, I'm looking at the Astroflex 4204...any conflicts there?

Dave, what model Astroflex do you have?
 
fierce, just because he works for a big dealer and has been on some custom installs means nothing to me. I want to know what caddy experience he has, thats all. Yes I am on the east coast, the south east coast. I am in broward county florida. I have no problem telling you how to install them but it is very labor intensive. I recommend hiring a pro that knows cadillac. Yes I have done a ton of cts's. I have one to do in the morning as a matter of fact. A 2006. I just did one yesterday. Today was Honda Accord day. I did a 05 Accord. And as far as Soldering, if you read any good products instructions they absolutely insist on soldering. If your using butt connectors thats fine as long as it is a quality piece and you use the correct crimper. I solder about 99% of my connections. I use ring terminals too. Absolutely, Positively no t-taps or schotchlocks. I hate those things. Not worth it to save time. That is why it takes me on average 3 to 4 hours to install a remote start alarm. It works for me. Takes me longer, I charge more but you can guarantee that I will not have a return related to poor connections or Hardware failure due to overheating bad connections. I have seen Remote starts that actually melt the wiring because of bad connections with t-taps. I know nothing of the Astroflex remote start systems, so I cannot comment.


DanDan
 
DanDan said:
fierce, just because he works for a big dealer and has been on some custom installs means nothing to me. I want to know what caddy experience he has, thats all. Yes I am on the east coast, the south east coast. I am in broward county florida. I have no problem telling you how to install them but it is very labor intensive. I recommend hiring a pro that knows cadillac. Yes I have done a ton of cts's. I have one to do in the morning as a matter of fact. A 2006. I just did one yesterday. Today was Honda Accord day. I did a 05 Accord. And as far as Soldering, if you read any good products instructions they absolutely insist on soldering. If your using butt connectors thats fine as long as it is a quality piece and you use the correct crimper. I solder about 99% of my connections. I use ring terminals too. Absolutely, Positively no t-taps or schotchlocks. I hate those things. Not worth it to save time. That is why it takes me on average 3 to 4 hours to install a remote start alarm. It works for me. Takes me longer, I charge more but you can guarantee that I will not have a return related to poor connections or Hardware failure due to overheating bad connections. I have seen Remote starts that actually melt the wiring because of bad connections with t-taps. I know nothing of the Astroflex remote start systems, so I cannot comment.


DanDan
Dan, that's definitely good to hear. I'm seriously considering doing this/getting this done. The Astroflex's are a bit elusive to find on the net... Audiovox systems seem to be a bit easier to come by. I read back in this thread and I noticed you said you only stick with two brands, one of them being Audiovox. What model Audiovox are you putting into the 2006 CTS you're working on tomorrow? I'm eyeing the APS996, I want the confirming LED screen...any conflicts there? I'm only looking for remote start with 1500'+ range, not an aftermarket alarm system. Let me know if you would recommend another model, thanks a lot.
 
I'm a little ignorant of the whole autostart technology. If you use an extra key or whatever, is this going to allow someone to get in the car and drive off, or do most systems have a kill switch in the event the vehicle is moved w/out the key in the ignition? Just curious b/c I'd hate to warm up my car for some low-life car thief! In my last vehicle the ignition was really loose so the key could be removed while the engine was running (you still needed the key to start it though). On cold mornings I'd run out and start it, then pull the key out and lock the doors while the heater ran full blast. Worked pretty well!
 
DDS rollin a CTS said:
I'm a little ignorant of the whole autostart technology. If you use an extra key or whatever, is this going to allow someone to get in the car and drive off, or do most systems have a kill switch in the event the vehicle is moved w/out the key in the ignition? Just curious b/c I'd hate to warm up my car for some low-life car thief! In my last vehicle the ignition was really loose so the key could be removed while the engine was running (you still needed the key to start it though). On cold mornings I'd run out and start it, then pull the key out and lock the doors while the heater ran full blast. Worked pretty well!
The car would remain locked until you walked up to the car and unlocked it, either with your key or remote. That's one of the reasons I want to buy a system with an LCD remote that would confirm the status of the locks/windows/engine. The key/box inside the car would be hidden somewhere behind the instrument cluster or another location hard to access. It's really a rather safe system.

Oh yeah, my friend can do that trick with his car too...it's kind of funny actually.
 
Stay away from the lcd screens, unless you like changing the batteries in them once a month. The other thing I do not like is they are very prone to failure from dropping them just once. They scratch easy and are just plain unreliable. The new ones out have confirming led's that are much more reliable. The LCD's are nice but the reliability for most people is poor at best. Audiovox has some nice LED's out but I have not seen them yet. DEI also has them too. The APS-996 is a nice unit but I don't care for the LCD. Just remember if you get a remote that locks and unlocks the door you will lose certain functions over the Factory remotes. They claim to have bypasses that will keep those functions but I have not seen one yet that did not have some sort of bug. If it were me and I needed the distance I would either go with the remote start that uses a one button and keep the factory remote or go with the confirming led remote that will be a lot more complicated installing. As far as the extra key the way it works is the bypass is a box that the key gets installed to. The box gets hidden under the dash up high as possible. No way a thief is going to know where it is unless you leave it in plain view. I put mine up top of the instrument cluster. You can also program the key and break the metal portion off and just leave the transponder part intact and it renders the key useless but the transponder will still bypass the immobilizer letting the vehicle remote start. The transponder on the cts also turns the alarm off. I do not find it an issue as long as the box is hidden. Besides if for what ever reason you lose your key it is like have a hide a key available in an emergency. Thats if the car is open and you have the tools to tear down the dash to retrieve it! :yup:
 
There is a key hidden in my Astroflex installation but you can't start the car with it because it is an uncut blank. What is required of the key is the transponder built into it that the car reads as part of the PassKey 3+ system. The guy that installed mine has done thousands of installs and says my CTS is the trickiest he has encountered. He says that the Astroflex module to bypass the anti-theft system no longer requires the key and simplifies the install a little. The brake applied signal still has to be picked up at the tail lights.
 
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