[GHarrin218]

Can anyone help me find the lifting points for my 2022 CT4 Blackwing? The searches I have done aren’t showing much.
Thanks, Gary

 

[Dougyfd]

It's probably the same as an ats v since they share the same alpha chassis. Just behind the front wheel and in front of the rear wheel. You can look underneath and see the opening. Its best to use a lifting point jack pad.

 

[21BlackRaven]

^^^ what he said. You can buy jack pads off Amazon to use on a jack and jack stand.

 

[GHarrin218]

It's probably the same as an ats v since they share the same alpha chassis. Just behind the front wheel and in front of the rear wheel. You can look underneath and see the opening. Its best to use a lifting point jack pad.

Thank you!

 

[21BlackRaven]

Hi all. I took a first attempt on rotating the tires. Wasn't a fun experience. I started at the rear driver side and quickly realized that I won't be able to do a jack and Jack stand together. Didn't see very much potential on the front either.... only thing I was thinking was to raise the car high enough to where both tires are up in the air on the same side and I could put a jack stand under the front... doesn't seem like a good idea. Thoughts?

 

[Dougyfd]

I have a 19 ats v and the frame should be just about identical. I use one jack with a jack pad for each side as you can only rotate side to side. It's not the easiest car to lift or put jack stands under.

 

[DriveOn]

The CTS and ATS have a center front lift point. Very useful for getting 2 front jackstands in place. Does require a long low jack unless you can first run your car up onto ramps fit under body clearance.
For the rear Jack stands I think a 2 x 6 between your jack & differential is safe.
I have a CT4 on order and I'm hoping it's designed like my CTS.

 

[jim1890]

Hi all. I took a first attempt on rotating the tires. Wasn't a fun experience. I started at the rear driver side and quickly realized that I won't be able to do a jack and Jack stand together. Didn't see very much potential on the front either.... only thing I was thinking was to raise the car high enough to where both tires are up in the air on the same side and I could put a jack stand under the front... doesn't seem like a good idea. Thoughts?

What is the purpose in rotating the tires from one side to the other?

 

[Dougyfd]

It probably doesn't make much of a difference , but when you have different sized tires front and rear , it's your only option to try and keep tire wear equal all around.

 

[21BlackRaven]

Thanks all for the replies. Just following the manual on recommended tire rotation and the diagram shows how the tires should be rotated. Figured engineers that designed this vehicle know best.

There are zero diagrams on the jack points as shown in one of the posts above. I really hope it is a front lift which would make the front extremely easy to tackle... those jack points on the sides are terrible. The head of my jack barely fits without destroying plastic leaving zero room for a jack stand at the pinch weld.

I'm having a shop rotate them this time around as I have a nail in a tire and need that fixed so maybe next time.

 

[21BlackRaven]

Hi all,

Curious if anyone can steer me to the lift points for the car? I know where the pinch welds are at... any other location to lift a car up with a lift?

Thanks

 

[Submariner409]

Look for hard pads inboard of the rocker panel pinch weld slots as well as at the front and rear control arm mounts. There are diagrams in the real GM/Cadillac/Helm service manuals if they are even in print yet.

 

[pkincy]

I use the pinch welds which are the recommended lift points. I also use these jacking pucks. They have magnets in the center so you just put the center on the pinch weld and it will stay up while you orient your floor jack under it.

https://www.amazon.com/Byenins-Slotted-Universal-Magnetic-Adapter/dp/B073SQRYB3/ref=sr_1_4?crid=29C06MSSZSWGQ&keywords=jacking+puck+pinch+weld&qid=1658954693&sprefix=jacking+%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-4

 

[pkincy]

Probably is not a very definitive answer. There does appear to be a notch in the frame rail even with the front of the driver/passenger door, but my BW has a CF splitter that is close to that spot. I have lifted my ATS-V many times from this spot, but am unsure about the CT4 particulary with CF splitter. I will follow up later today.

 

[pkincy]

Yes the pinch welds are still there but the jacking is complicated by the CF splitter if you have it. This is what I have used for years on the ATS-V:

Unfortunately it is a very tight fit against the edge of the CF splitter no matter how much you cheat it and the jack to the inside as seen here.

That pad is 3" in diameter. I have ordered one that is 2.8" and hope that will work better. Even as careful as I was it was hard to get the pinch weld puck out once it had gotten above the CF splitter. This makes taking off the wheel for any reason or any suspension or brake maintenance way more time consuming that it should be.

Take care,

 

[DriveOn]

This extension comes down far enough to protect the side splitter from damage. From ZL1addons, expensive but works well.

 

[DriveOn]

For the past couple of months I've been using these pinch weld adapter pads on both my blackwing and CTS Vsport. There's various versions available on Amazon or eBay. They don't touch the bottom edge/lip of the pinch weld, rather the foot on these pads support the body pan in the areas adjacent to the pinch weld. The feet on these pads are thick so I did have to trim some plastic with a Dremel. They are meant to be attached permanently to the car using set screws. I only have a couple hundred miles with them on the blackwing and the set screws haven't loosened up at all & the pads haven't moved it all. With my Vsport I have over a thousand miles and one full track day & the pads are still on as if I just attached them. My concern is that they might fall off but I don't think that's going to happen. It really makes lifting the car much easier.

 

[Frank Rizzo]

I use the pinch welds which are the recommended lift points. I also use these jacking pucks. They have magnets in the center so you just put the center on the pinch weld and it will stay up while you orient your floor jack under it.

https://www.amazon.com/Byenins-Slotted-Universal-Magnetic-Adapter/dp/B073SQRYB3/ref=sr_1_4?crid=29C06MSSZSWGQ&keywords=jacking+puck+pinch+weld&qid=1658954693&sprefix=jacking+%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-4

Thanks.
I just ordered one.

 

[pkincy]

That one (that I bought to use on my ATS-V) is 3 " in diameter. And is too large to use safely on a CT4-V BW with CF splitters. I have ordered several smaller ones, but will likely try and find a suspension hard spot inboard of the pinch welds for my floor jack. Here is a picture of the floor jack with that pinch weld support under my BW. Note how close the floor jacket and pinch weld adapter are to the splitter even when cheated as far as possible to the inside.

http://imgur.com/a/ezvtfnl

 

[pkincy]

I gave up on the pinch welds. I bought 5 different iterations of the pinch weld adapters and none worked given the proximity of the CF side splitter to the pinch weld. So ultimately I used the flat aluminum plate you see bolted to the chassis just ahead of the pinch weld jacking spot. I did a similar thing when I got my 93 Camaro new but then I was racing it often so that chassis spot eventually was deformed. Likely this aluminum plate would not hold up to frequent tire or brake changes but it will work for my occasional needs now. I now have both front wheels cleaned and ceramic coated and did pull the front brake pads and traced them out. I will send those tracings to Carbotech, who will hopefully build us some backing plates so we can order low dust ceramic pads (for me) or race pads (for you). The brake pads have a very odd shape.