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2005 STS
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

V6 2005 with 187k miles, Rear crankshaft seal is leaking and am planning to replace it. Is there any other way to do this without taking the whole engine out?

Thanks,
 

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2005 STS
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198 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
This oil leakage is driving me crazy. Before 3 days it was attended by a mechanic and he makes sure that its Rear Main seal leakage and he checked there is no leakage from Valve cover gasket.
Yesterday i went to another mechanic to get quotation for replacement of Main Seal and when he checked, he showed me the flywheel is dry and there is no oil .i.e if rear main seal is leak, sure there will be oil around flywheel...right? According to last mechanic oil is coming from top(Valve Cover gasket). This makes me so confused that from where actually this oil is leaking:suspense:

Right now there is oil in front(passenger side only) and rear of the engine and when i am driving you can find traces of oil at/upto rear bumper.
 

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2015 SRX LUX 2014 CTS LUX Phantom Grey (previously 2008 STS)
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Right now there is oil in front(passenger side only) and rear of the engine and when i am driving you can find traces of oil at/upto rear bumper.
That's a lot of leakage. How much oil are you losing?
 

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2006 V6 STS RWD
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305 Posts
There are always dangers in steam cleaning, spray cans and a garden hose, or using the engine cleaner in a self service bay, but it might be worth taking a shot at cleaning it up so you could look for fresh oil afterwards?
 

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2006 STS 3.6L
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Yesterday i went to another mechanic to get quotation for replacement of Main Seal and when he checked, he showed me the flywheel is dry and there is no oil .i.e if rear main seal is leak, sure there will be oil around flywheel...right?
A GM mechanic told me that exactly. He was correct (not saying that your guy is correct, however).

According to last mechanic oil is coming from top(Valve Cover gasket).
This diagnostic should be pretty straight forward to figure out, no? And the valve cover gaskets are not expensive if one or both are suspect and the job isn't THAT difficult. Spark plug seals can be changed at the same time (spark plugs too - they're cheap).

My valve cover gaskets haven't given me any trouble, BUT, these places have...

Timing cover (replaced when chains were done)
Front crank seal - can be done without removing timing cover, but is also performed when chains are done.
And lastly - the oil pan seal. Not a gasket - remove the entire pan, clean it up and reseal it. Alldata says the timing cover has to be removed, but my mechanic did it without timing cover removal.

Just my 2 cents...
 

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2005 STS
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Discussion Starter #8
That's a lot of leakage. How much oil are you losing?
At first when I observe this massive leakage, the complete downside of car was wet with oil and when i checked the dipstick it was below hatched portion. After this I didn't drive it too much, just going to workshop and coming back home in confusion.

Yesterday Mechanic changed the valve cover gasket and told me one of the gasket was almost finished and that was the leaking point. But still I will keep observing and hopefully-hopefully there will be no more leakage.

Now I am planning to do engine flushing because previously I observed too much slug(black sand) in oil filter housing.

Long Live Cady:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys for your comments.

I think problem solved and culprit was Valve cover gasket. After replacing I have driven 700km and level is OK:thumbsup:
 

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2006 V6 STS RWD
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At first when I observe this massive leakage, the complete downside of car was wet with oil and when i checked the dipstick it was below hatched portion. After this I didn't drive it too much, just going to workshop and coming back home in confusion.

Yesterday Mechanic changed the valve cover gasket and told me one of the gasket was almost finished and that was the leaking point. But still I will keep observing and hopefully-hopefully there will be no more leakage.

Now I am planning to do engine flushing because previously I observed too much slug(black sand) in oil filter housing.

Long Live Cady:thumbsup::thumbsup:
Nice!:thumbsup: But I'd really reconsider the engine flush i.e. don't do it. Clean out the oil filter housing really well at each filter change, and keep using Mobil1 or equiv. The problem with an engine flush is that if you break anything loose downstream of the filter, where does it go? Will it stay on paths larger than itself, or get trapped in a journal where it will reduce crucial oil flow to a critical component? IMHO, if you want to clean the inside of an engine, you have remove the outside. Other opinions welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Nice!:thumbsup: But I'd really reconsider the engine flush i.e. don't do it. Clean out the oil filter housing really well at each filter change, and keep using Mobil1 or equiv. The problem with an engine flush is that if you break anything loose downstream of the filter, where does it go? Will it stay on paths larger than itself, or get trapped in a journal where it will reduce crucial oil flow to a critical component? IMHO, if you want to clean the inside of an engine, you have remove the outside. Other opinions welcome.
Yeah! your point is valid, almost same thing mechanic told me when I ask for transmission fluid change. Because after buying the car I drove 65k miles and never change transmission oil and don't know when last time it was changed, so mechanic said if you are not facing any problem, keep it driving with same oil.
Here in KSA, weather too much hot with lot of sand. Like after a long trip if you open the air filter, you will find lot of sand inside filter housing and i think what goes inside engine.

Should I try WOT? It will work for V6 or not?
 

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Yeah! your point is valid, almost same thing mechanic told me when I ask for transmission fluid change. Because after buying the car I drove 65k miles and never change transmission oil and don't know when last time it was changed, so mechanic said if you are not facing any problem, keep it driving with same oil.
Here in KSA, weather too much hot with lot of sand. Like after a long trip if you open the air filter, you will find lot of sand inside filter housing and i think what goes inside engine.

Should I try WOT? It will work for V6 or not?
Not sure what you meant by try WOT, that is generally an abbreviation for Wide Open Throttle. Regarding the sand, in your environment, you might want to consider a very heavy bead of grease on the downstream side air filter element flange, enough to absolutely fill any gap where air could sneak around the filter. The grease will also trap sand. I know it'll be a mess to clean it every filter change, but I can't image it being more work than a worn out engine. Also be worth taking a look at any possible weak spots/points of entry for sand-laden air into the engine breather system.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Not sure what you meant by try WOT, that is generally an abbreviation for Wide Open Throttle. Regarding the sand, in your environment, you might want to consider a very heavy bead of grease on the downstream side air filter element flange, enough to absolutely fill any gap where air could sneak around the filter. The grease will also trap sand. I know it'll be a mess to clean it every filter change, but I can't image it being more work than a worn out engine. Also be worth taking a look at any possible weak spots/points of entry for sand-laden air into the engine breather system.
Yep! I am referring same "Wide open throttle".

Applying grease is good idea, I will try this time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Oh that is LMAO! LOL! again.

Today I took these pics when I went for oil change.....Leakage is again same:(:crybaby::banghead::banghead::banghead:

1-I have already changed valve cover gaskets
2-Flywheel is dry(See Pic)
3-Passenger side of engine is leaking

Still couldn't figure out the leak source, any thoughts will be helpful.
. IMG_2269.JPG IMG_2274.JPG IMG_2275.JPG IMG_2278.JPG
 

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Hi All,

V6 2005 with 187k miles, Rear crankshaft seal is leaking and am planning to replace it. Is there any other way to do this without taking the whole engine out?

Thanks,
The problem is with caddy is all of there vacuum holes in the pcv and in sure in it here place are just about 1mm and that's way to small. When cranking on the engine all of the compression just builds up because of the pcv holes being to small that it has no where to go so it ends up pushing through the path of least resistance that being the valve cover seals/gaskets and or the front crack seal or rear crank seal. That can be easily fixed by pulling the pcv valve and drilling the holes a lot bigger at least twice as big as the already are. Caddy also sells a fix kit for this problem but it's a whole lot more for the exact same result. My brother and I build and tune LT LS and all other types of motors. We also do LS swaps in whatever our costumers want it in. We also do work for regular Every day normal cars and I always trouble shoot everything in depth for any car truck or suv. Thanks guys and girls. Have a good day. Any questions feel free to message me.
 
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