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1996 Montana Blue Eldorado,1982 Eldorado Biarritz Diesel
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi fellows: I'm getting a 1375 code Ignition Control 24X high voltage-history

1350 Ignition Control module-history

138. 02 sensor High voltage bank 1 sensor# 2-History


Where should I start first:confused:: ICM? or O2? I've change the # 3 o2 sensor already :suspense:
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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History means that those particular codes have not set within the last 3 successful start-warmup-drive cycles.

Clear your codes and drive normally for a few days and see if anything sets a new code.

Any one of those could have been from a voltage spike for any number of reasons.
 

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1996 Montana Blue Eldorado,1982 Eldorado Biarritz Diesel
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
SubM: The 138 code went off twice in the last week. Bank 1 O2 sensor # 2. Should I just change all the O2s? I changed the #3 O2 about 3 months ago.:hmm: The car is running rich too, buku carbon :nono: I can get her back to snuff, I know I can :sneaky::devil:
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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Hah!!! Running rich will drive O2 sensor output voltage positive. Is this a city or country car ???

Have you ever had the injectors cleaned or run a 20 oz. jug of Chevron TECHRON with a fillup of Texaco, Shell, or Chevron gas (any octane called for in your car) ??? A sticky/stuck fuel injector is murder on O2 sensors and gas mileage. Do this first and go for a day on the highway/country. Push the engine - make it work.

I think (Ranger knows) the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) in your car might be inside the intake manifold - it senses engine vacuum - and if the internal diaphragm is ruptured, that can also cause a rich condition.

Anyhoo, you're in the fuel/air mixture diagnosis area.......
 

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2010 DTS
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'93's & '94's have the FPR inside the manifold. His is on the fuel rail like all the others. Just pull the vacuum line at idle and see if any fuel leaks from the nipple. There should be none.
 

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1996 Montana Blue Eldorado,1982 Eldorado Biarritz Diesel
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
SuBM,and Ranger: as always I appreciate your knowledgeable replies. This car had only 15k put on it in the past 5 years owned by a retired guy. It has 110k now. About 3 weeks ago it stalled on I-95 while I was cruising in the fast lane. I threw it in neutral and it fired back up. That was the only time in the 6 months I've owned her. If you see this pretty car you would understand why i want to keep her :bouncy:. I have some nice pics but they won't :tisk: Down Load here, file too big.

Like another member here who just mentioned his mileage is terrible, mine is too.:rant2: She will only manage in the high teens. I had gotten 22 once by traveling on the highway for 3 hours. I'm getting Ignition codes 1910 and Emission codes 138 in the memory every 20-30 key starts. I'm just not sure what to tackle first. The motor still sounds good, and runs pretty decent even while running fat.:alchi:

Once I get her sorted out I believe she will be fine. I just don't have a ton of cash to toss around now. :bigroll: I will buy a FPR, and then do an o2. I just found an ICM on ebay ,and will change that too. Any more input is welcomed :thumbsup:




Hah!!! Running rich will drive O2 sensor output voltage positive. Is this a city or country car ???

Have you ever had the injectors cleaned or run a 20 oz. jug of Chevron TECHRON with a fillup of Texaco, Shell, or Chevron gas (any octane called for in your car) ??? A sticky/stuck fuel injector is murder on O2 sensors and gas mileage. Do this first and go for a day on the highway/country. Push the engine - make it work.

I think (Ranger knows) the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) in your car might be inside the intake manifold - it senses engine vacuum - and if the internal diaphragm is ruptured, that can also cause a rich condition.

Anyhoo, you're in the fuel/air mixture diagnosis area.......
 

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2010 DTS
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About 3 weeks ago it stalled on I-95 while I was cruising in the fast lane. I threw it in neutral and it fired back up.
That sounds an awful lot like a CKP sensor.

Like another member here who just mentioned his mileage is terrible, mine is too. I will buy a FPR
Check it before replacing it. No sense in replacing something that isn't broken.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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As Ranger advised, do the FPR check before you spend $40+.

Your gas mileage.......Not sure, but does your car have two modes of observing mileage - a long-term average and instant ??

Long term will, depending on the time since reset, change values very slowly because it stores ALL engine run time vs fuel consumption. If you drove around the city for a month and averaged 14 mpg, then headed for Florida, the average would creep up very slowly even though you were getting 25 mpg at highway speeds. (One way to look at it: Suppose you reset the average mileage reading to 00.0 and then went out on the highway and drove 60 for a half hour. Say the mileage ratchets up to 25 mpg. You get off the highway and immediately are stuck in stopped traffic for a half hour. Your average mileage will now ratchet down to 12.5 mpg for that particular hour's drive. You get away from the traffic and mileage slowly begins to ratchet up again.)

Instantaneous mileage hops all over the place and is essentially useless as even a 5 mph headwind will change it (for the worse). It's entertaining, and can give you an idea of your driving habits, but you'll never figure mileage from that function.
 

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1996 Montana Blue Eldorado,1982 Eldorado Biarritz Diesel
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
That sounds an awful lot like a CKP sensor.


Check it before replacing it. No sense in replacing something that isn't broken.
Is that a shade tree job or do I need to go to a stealer? :cool2:
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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IF the FPR is faulty it's a 15 minute job.

Remove the engine cover and locate the FPR on the fuel rail. (for a picture of your FPR go to www.rockauto.com and get to your car, fuel, and click on the small pictures or the (!) icon for a larger view.) Make sure you get the correct FPR for your fuel rail: steel or nylon. Bleed off the fuel pressure by depressing the stem in the Schrader valve on the fuel supply side of the rail. Pull the vacuum line, check it for integrity, and remove the FPR by sliding out the hairpin clip. Make sure both O-rings come out. Lube the new FPR O-rings with a tad of engine oil and press it fully into place. Clip and reconnect. Cycle the ignition key ON - wait a few seconds - OFF twice in order to prime the fuel rail. Start and check for leaks and proper idle.

The CKP's, on the other hand, are in a hard-to-reach location just above and right of the oil filter adapter, sort of behind the bracket for the front motor mount, with a couple of difficult electrical connectors. Up on jackstands, remove the front under radiator splash shield, an hour or so with magic words. 10mm bolts. Replace both at the same time - yours are the same part, I believe - later models use 2 different CKP's. RockAuto again.
 
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