You do know there is a quick disconnect for the clutch line? Just pull one clip and the line separates and seals. Plug them in during install and bleed. The slave will stay with the trans.
Clutch/Flywheel replacement hint
Hi guys,
A little hint I wish I knew before I started throwing in my UUC lightweight flywheel - make sure your clutch reservoir is 100% full before backing the transmission off of the bell housing. When you back that out the 1.5" that you need to get to the 10mm bolts holding the hydraulic throwout bearing slave cylinder on, it allows the slave cylinder to expand out further than it would normally be able to (because it would hit the fingers on the pressure plate) and it sucks in extra fluid. If your reservoir isn't full, it's going to suck in air, and you'll get a dead clutch pedal and will have to bleed the crap out of it. :banghead:
I finally got my clutch pedal good enough to drive this morning before work, but the clutch release point still isn't has high as it was before the car went under the knife... I'll be bleeding it some more later this week, as I want to make sure the clutch is releasing sufficiently that i'm not wearing out my synchros while driving.
As an aside, the clutch disk I took out of the car (I have 75k miles on mine) looked identical to the new one. I guess that means I know how to drive a standard.
A little hint I wish I knew before I started throwing in my UUC lightweight flywheel - make sure your clutch reservoir is 100% full before backing the transmission off of the bell housing. When you back that out the 1.5" that you need to get to the 10mm bolts holding the hydraulic throwout bearing slave cylinder on, it allows the slave cylinder to expand out further than it would normally be able to (because it would hit the fingers on the pressure plate) and it sucks in extra fluid. If your reservoir isn't full, it's going to suck in air, and you'll get a dead clutch pedal and will have to bleed the crap out of it. :banghead:
I finally got my clutch pedal good enough to drive this morning before work, but the clutch release point still isn't has high as it was before the car went under the knife... I'll be bleeding it some more later this week, as I want to make sure the clutch is releasing sufficiently that i'm not wearing out my synchros while driving.
As an aside, the clutch disk I took out of the car (I have 75k miles on mine) looked identical to the new one. I guess that means I know how to drive a standard.
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I thought I read someone saying that the quick-connect doesn't seal 100% so it's better to leave it hooked up and hanging if you can...
That's what I did, but if that was a mistake that sucks.
So that quick connect seals well enough to prevent any air from getting in?
That's what I did, but if that was a mistake that sucks.
So that quick connect seals well enough to prevent any air from getting in?
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
