[Bugly2005]

Today I attempted to change the bulbs in the climate control module of my 2005 Escalade. Got the bulbs out and when I went to put the first one in I saw that the copper strip was exposed and broke. Tried it no light. The break was at the end of the line so I installed a light prior to the break. Plugged it in and the light went on then off right away.

My question is will any of the bulbs work with a break in the copper?
Secondly can I repair this break with liquid copper to complete the circuit?

Thanks again for any help,

Kevin

 

[Tripwire]

Learn how to solder ( see you tube) a short section of about most any clean copper wire will work, trick is not to overheat, be sure to scrape the circuit board trace clean of any clearcoat, done it several times

 

[Bugly2005]

Thank you Tripwire for the response. Yes I'm learning to solder on the fly lol. The first light I took out was the first one. No issues since. So I assume after cleaning the board I simply solder the copper wire onto the board? How close to the light hole do I need to get? I assume right to it.

Thank you again,

Kevin

 

[Bugly2005]

Ok I searched here and watched youtube videos but I still can't install a light that works. I tested a bulb and it worked fine. I soldered it in and no light. I tried 4 times no light. It seems pretty simple but this is why I'm not a paid mechanic lol. I have two questions that will make it clear to me. These questions relate to the lights on my climate control module.

1- Are their polarity concerns with installing the lights? Is there a certain way they go in as they relate to positive and negative? I believe this may be so because the light works when tested...but when I cross the wires to check it the opposite way it does not light. And if so...what side on the board is + and -?

2- If a trace is broken anywhere on the board will it cause ALL of the lights to not work? After not being able to get the light to work I noticed a break in the trace in the middle of the board. I didn't check prior, and I assume it was broken while in the car.

I will try one more time if I missed something but these questions will help me realize if I did something wrong.

As always thank you for any help,

Kevin

 

[tokuzumi]

Are you using standard incandescent/halogen or LEDs? If LEDs, you need to have the polarity wired properly or it won't work. Incandescent/halogens aren't picky unless you are using too big of a bulb which is trying to draw too much current.

There could also be another break in the printed circuit board wire. If you follow the traces, you see the two pins near the broken wire lead towards the two pins on the right. Could solder a jumper wire from pin to pin (obviously use shielded wire, not bare copper) for each lead.

 

[Bugly2005]

Thank you for the reply. The bulbs are LED so that answers my question. But how do I know which hole is positive or negative on the board? And will the lights work up until the break in the trace.?

I actually have another board that I will try. I'm getting better at soldering but I want to get it right the first time so I don't risk getting the board too hot. Not too confident at soldering a wire as the trace is super small.

Thanks for any more help,

Kevin

 

[tokuzumi]

You can test the LEDs using a little 9V battery. Just swap the leads on the terminals until the bulb lights up. Then mark the leg that's positive.

 

[Bugly2005]

You can test the LEDs using a little 9V battery. Just swap the leads on the terminals until the bulb lights up. Then mark the leg that's positive.

Thank you for the reply...I have tested the bulbs in that exact manner. I would like to know which way they go in on the board. Is the first hole positive? It looks like the first hole is a round on where the second one is more of a square.

Kevin

 

[tokuzumi]

At one time someone posted the negative leads on the board, but Photobucket killed that photo during their "pay up, or no shared photos for you" phase.

You'll need to dig to find it unfortunately

 

[Bugly2005]

At one time someone posted the negative leads on the board, but Photobucket killed that photo during their "pay up, or no shared photos for you" phase.

You'll need to dig to find it unfortunately

Ok thank you for letting me know. I will do by trial and error. I will post my results

 

[Bugly2005]

Ok...so I ruined another top board and have one left. Before I have at my last one I have a few questions to give me a chance here... I took one bulb out easy. I plugged in the assembly at the car and put the bulb in to see which way it goes in. I have new LED 12 volt 3mm bulbs. The two bulbs that were already there flickered then went off...followed by the electrical burning smell. The LED light never lit. The board looks fine tho. I then tried the bulb both ways and nothing. So my questions are:

Can you mix LED and incandescent bulbs? Did this cause the others to fail. I don't believe this to be true.
Ill try to reverse the install next time but I would think that this would just cause the bulb to not work.
Do I have the right bulbs? Should I just stay with the original incandescent bulbs?

Any advice please is appreciated. I will try again tomorrow but I'm at my wits end with what seems to be a very simple process.

Kevin

 

[EXTeroceptor]

Are your new led bulbs dimmable? I've heard that LEDs can be very sensitive to voltage fluctuations of even the smallest amount, and especially when it is outside of it's designed operating voltage. It may be the same for current? I think GM uses pulse-width modulation for dimming the lights, I know they've used it for the theater dimming feature, not 100% sure about the backlighting though.

I've been told that you shouldn't mix incandescent bulbs with LEDs on the same circuit as the incandescents will pull more power and blow the LEDs.