My clicking came back worse than the first time I took it in about a month ago (could feel it through the steering wheel this time). I took it back a couple of days ago and they were able to easily reproduce it. When I picked it up, I asked the mechanic that actually did the work both times if he cleaned the mating surfaces and torqued the wheels to the new spec the first time and he said he did; he said this time he "torqued them by hand." My first thought was, "so what the hell did you do the last time?" --but I didn't want to be a dick about it. During my test drive around the parking lot I got it to happen just a little bit on my first crank to the right, but it went away and I couldn't get it to do it again. We'll see.
I've heard the clicking ever since I got the car late december. Recently it got worse, I could hear it turning left, turning right. Even going fast through short corners. I was about to take in to the dealer for the TSB. But, i took the car out for a spirited drive this afternoon and when i got back i missed something. The clicking when i parked.
I tested it out and it is pretty much completely gone. I can only hear a few clicks when i have the stearing wheel *completely* turned left and even then you really have to pay attention. Weather was cool here in Texas today. Around 65, but humid. It's been a while since I really gave it a good run through some corners. Transmission stayed around 165. (Yesterday after a highway run it was 195).
Somehow all the cornering pushed the front wheels back in place. Now I wonder how long it will be before it comes back.
The very first time I took it in for the problem, a stone was caught between the caliper, brake pad and the wheel. The second time I took it in, the dealer performed the fix listed on the current TSB out for this issue. It was fine for about a month and the problem is back. While it isn't as bad as it originally was, the problem is still there.
I will contact the dealer today and see when I can get it in to have the TSB fix done again.
I've had a stone caught between the inside of the rotor and the metal shield. It caused an unpleasant squealing sound. I had performed the TSB myself (no more clicking), and feared I'd done something stupid. But, after pulling the wheel off and putting my head into the wheel well to follow the sound, the little piece of gravel was easy to see. Big relief.
I took my V in yesterday to get the clicking noise fixed (local dealer had 3 Vs in stock) and they performed the TSB again, but they didn't seem hopeful that the problem would be solved forever. I put about 1,500 miles on my V after they fixed it the first time and the sound came back. They said to bring it back if it happens again, but the tech and service advisor both thought that the problem is the front wheels and until GM revises the wheel design and gets new wheels out there, this problem could plague us forever. They said the front wheels are binding.
"Binding?" Binding to what? Of course, they're "bound" to the wheel hubs J/k SG. When I heard it from outside the car as a valet moved it a couple of weeks ago, my impression was the "crinkling" sound was an artifact of the wheel being so light, yet so strong, that any minute flexing and movement against the hub mating surface ("stiction") would make the wheel "ring" and produce that sound. My concern grew, however, when it got so bad I could feel it through the steering wheel...
So I've been saving to buy a gen 2. (I like paying cash for things)
I came across these adds. (I can post link if necessary)
I admit im new to Cadillacs, but those seem really cheap as far as manual cts V's go.
Only 40k mile too.
This can't be the normal price right?
(Incase images don't...
I haven't had a chance to use it yet on the CTS-V but i want to remove my stock rims and have them chrome next month has anyone done the same the jacking points look ? But the blocks which came with the kit should work good ill tell all then. 2015 CTS-V coupe