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2000 Dev, 94 FW (crushed), 96 FW Limo (sold), 95 SLS (sold)
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367 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I got a draw-tite 36175 from my local U-Haul store for $132. It would have been $109 if I was willing to wait 2-3 weeks, but I wasn't. I also purchased a drawtite modulite 18146 20 Amp Trailer Light Isolator off eBay of $35. I'm not sure this was necessary, but I really didn't want to add the trailer draw to the tail light circuits. I was pleasantly surprised when the hitch showed up with the correct draw bar. A $7 ball from wallymart and I was set.

The first step was to put some wire loops to hold the exhaust once the rubber hangers were pulled off. I removed 4 at the rear of the car and 2 just in front of the mufflers. The 2 in front the mufflers removed in the same direction which I didn't expect, but it simplified the operation. The exhaust must be dropped about 6" at the rear of the car to get the hitch in.

Next step was to remove the exhaust hanger brackets at the end of the unibody frame rails. YOu only need to remove 2 on each side, but I removed all three not knowing this.

With the exhaust dropped about 6", I could fish the hitch in and get the bolts started on each side. It's a real pain to work under there and if I did it again, I would have lifted the car and put it on jack stands. Live and learn.

The instructions call for putting the heavy bolts into the frame rails and fishing the rectangular washer through an access hole about 8" further down the frame rails. This is clearly a liability part supplied without the expectation that it will be used as it can not be used the way the instructions say. You also get 2 nuts on flimsy metal strips that you can fish through an access hole and get started on the large bolts.

Once you get everything in place, you can clearly see that the washer tabs can't be used and getting the nuts started would be a reall hit and miss activity. At this point, I ventured out on my own. I figured out where the bolts would come through (about 2-3" forward of the strengthening valley- if you do the job, you'll see what I mean) and jigsawed a 1.5 x 2.5 oval on each side of the trunk pan. I was surprised to find it aluminum and it cut quite easily.

With some real access holes, I could use some better washers. Once the 2 vertical bolts were started, I finished tightening and 4 at the rear of the frame rails and finally tightened vertical bolts into the main unibody frame rails and was ready to cover up the access holes I cut. I used goop as a sealant (it just looked like silicone) and some electrical junction box covers to cover the holes. 4 self tapping sheet metal screw finished off sealing the trunk.

I installed the modulite using the ground bolt to hold the device ant t-tapped right into the green yellow and brown wires right there. The trick with the isolator is that the red "stop" circuit has to be wired to ground or the blinkers are always in flasher mode. I ran the main power wire out the access hole I cut and ran it under the car following the brake line and used a modified ring terminal and fuse for the isolated light power.

Not too bad of job, but took most of the day to get it done and cleaned up.

The car is only rated for 1000 lb. towing capacity, but the hitch is rated at 3500. I will hardly use it other than bike rack and rarely to pull my small 5x10 utility trailer when I don't want to use the work truck.

Find the instruction sheet here:

http://www.etrailer.com/instructions.asp?pn=N36175&manuf=DT

Anyone else have towing experience with a seville or eldorado?




 

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Registered
98 Deville, '15 Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium, '12 Ford Escape
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3,294 Posts
great post! I sort of want a hitch on my Seville for the random times I do need to pull a small trailer when I move.

So these Sevilles are pre-configured for mounting an after market trailer hitch if I am interpretting all this correctly?
 

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2008 SRX-V8, 1991 Eldorado
Joined
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1,543 Posts
delzy said:
I got a draw-tite 36175 from my local U-Haul store for $132. It would have been $109 if I was willing to wait 2-3 weeks, but I wasn't. I also purchased a drawtite modulite 18146 20 Amp Trailer Light Isolator off eBay of $35. I'm not sure this was necessary, but I really didn't want to add the trailer draw to the tail light circuits. I was pleasantly surprised when the hitch showed up with the correct draw bar. A $7 ball from wallymart and I was set.

The first step was to put some wire loops to hold the exhaust once the rubber hangers were pulled off. I removed 4 at the rear of the car and 2 just in front of the mufflers. The 2 in front the mufflers removed in the same direction which I didn't expect, but it simplified the operation. The exhaust must be dropped about 6" at the rear of the car to get the hitch in.

Next step was to remove the exhaust hanger brackets at the end of the unibody frame rails. YOu only need to remove 2 on each side, but I removed all three not knowing this.

With the exhaust dropped about 6", I could fish the hitch in and get the bolts started on each side. It's a real pain to work under there and if I did it again, I would have lifted the car and put it on jack stands. Live and learn.

The instructions call for putting the heavy bolts into the frame rails and fishing the rectangular washer through an access hole about 8" further down the frame rails. This is clearly a liability part supplied without the expectation that it will be used as it can not be used the way the instructions say. You also get 2 nuts on flimsy metal strips that you can fish through an access hole and get started on the large bolts.

Once you get everything in place, you can clearly see that the washer tabs can't be used and getting the nuts started would be a reall hit and miss activity. At this point, I ventured out on my own. I figured out where the bolts would come through (about 2-3" forward of the strengthening valley- if you do the job, you'll see what I mean) and jigsawed a 1.5 x 2.5 oval on each side of the trunk pan. I was surprised to find it aluminum and it cut quite easily.

With some real access holes, I could use some better washers. Once the 2 vertical bolts were started, I finished tightening and 4 at the rear of the frame rails and finally tightened vertical bolts into the main unibody frame rails and was ready to cover up the access holes I cut. I used goop as a sealant (it just looked like silicone) and some electrical junction box covers to cover the holes. 4 self tapping sheet metal screw finished off sealing the trunk.

I installed the modulite using the ground bolt to hold the device ant t-tapped right into the green yellow and brown wires right there. The trick with the isolator is that the red "stop" circuit has to be wired to ground or the blinkers are always in flasher mode. I ran the main power wire out the access hole I cut and ran it under the car following the brake line and used a modified ring terminal and fuse for the isolated light power.

Not too bad of job, but took most of the day to get it done and cleaned up.

The car is only rated for 1000 lb. towing capacity, but the hitch is rated at 3500. I will hardly use it other than bike rack and rarely to pull my small 5x10 utility trailer when I don't want to use the work truck.

Find the instruction sheet here:

http://www.etrailer.com/instructions.asp?pn=N36175&manuf=DT

Anyone else have towing experience with a seville or eldorado?

Just curious.....how does the car look with the exhaust dropped 6" from the factory mount? Were you able to put it back or did you need to fabricate new exhaust hangers?
 

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Registered
2000 Dev, 94 FW (crushed), 96 FW Limo (sold), 95 SLS (sold)
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367 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The exhaust only needed to be dropped to get the hitch in. Once the hitch was in place, the exhaust was returned to is original position.

It doesn't really seem like the car was designed for a receiver, but draw-tite seems to have made one work.

BTW, I went out for a test drive pulling the trailer and it worked great.
 

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Registered
2000 Dev, 94 FW (crushed), 96 FW Limo (sold), 95 SLS (sold)
Joined
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367 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Just sold the Seville today and pulled the hitch off a couple of days ago. Anyway, If anyone wants it, I'll sell it for $75 plus actual UPS shipping. PM or post if you want it.
 
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