[CIWS]

All idle tables and anything light throttle has not been modified. That bug they saw does not happen on this ecm type. e40 yes. Not e67. And if i recall that was on a huge 800hp + turbo car several years back right?

As I have said I know no other specifics of that situation, than what was relayed to me and I have relayed here. However it does now seem you have either heard of it or were informed it did occur. So the shop I took it to wasn't lying, as I believed because they have no reason to B.S. me, they were simply passing on what they were told and felt was relevant. Models of ECMs were never mentioned or discussed.

If it was me, i would think it might be a faulty relay, or a bad / sticking thermostat, and it is just a random occuring thing that should happen again. We will see.

We will indeed see if it crops back up with the car running the stock ECM, and if it does I will be the first to post here that it indeed did and not only offer you an apology with egg on my face, but I'll ship you a bottle of Jose Cuervo Family Reserve.

But Jesse even though I know very little about auto repair, and you have probably forgotten more than I will ever know, I have repaired advanced electronics systems for more than 25 years including electronics warfare, surface to air missiles, radar, navigation, communications, etc,etc and I understand troubleshooting. I'm sorry but my money and a bottle of premium anejo tequila says it will not return based on everything I have been going through for the past week. However I will keep my word if it does return.

 

[WillySTS]

A Relearn is needed only once per computer. After that is done, you no longer need to redo it on the computers. Even if you swap them.

WHAT!

I've been doing a crank re-learn eveytime I switched my ECU and I don't have to!!! WHOOOOOO HOOOOO, now I can switch ECUs whenevr I want to at home...! Now I don't have bring the car to work, write up an RO just to pay the tech under the table and endure the questions about "Whatcha doin' to it now Willy?!?"...:thehand:

That information was worth watching this thread for!

 

[dkozloski]

I've been in the troubleshooting business on electronics, cars, and aircraft for over fifty years and have seen many similar scenarios. Invariably when the truth is finally outed someone will exclaim, "I didn't think THAT would make any difference". Just about the time you dig in your heels and loudly proclaim your innocence it'll smack you right between the eyes. Let's hope the culprit 'fesses up.

 

[Blades]

Theres no reason that the stock vs wait4me fan settings should do this. Besides air bubbles in the rad system, poor water pump perf, or low oil level, theres not much that can cause those high temps.. Driving at 40mph+ would cool down the car regardless of fan performance.. Do we have an integrated or external trans cooler? Judging by the impressive temps I've seen, I'd say external.. but then again, I haven't seen it.

Just wondering, what speed does the ECM turn off the fans? Could a failed/failing intercooler pump cause high heat exchanger temps and in turn cause high ECT/rad temps? High MAT/IAT2 temps would also be the result of a IC pump failure.. the stock tune would pull much more timing as well..

You'll neve know for sure unless you flash a stock tune back onto the modded ECM... and the modded tune onto the "working" ecm you have now.

 

[Jpjr]

Hey Jesse with your handheld you provide three custom tunes. I asked for a crusing tune and a performance tune (+1 with no TCM mod). Can you briefly explain what the difference is in these tunes i.e., what you are changing? I'm wondering if the performance tunes can/should be run 100% on the street or just for special circumstances. It sounds like it should be fine and won't do anything to the car if I run the performance tune 24/7.

 

[WillySTS]

but I'll ship you a bottle of Jose Cuervo Family Reserve.


...I will keep my word if it does return.

:alchi:You can ship it to me, if he doesn't drink:drool:

 

[CIWS]

haha - after the week I've had (all things not this) I need to take a few of those shots. It's good stuff and perfect for sipping / shooting. But I have to drive 30-40 minutes away through the city to reach liquor sales.

 

[LITTLEELVISDAN]

This will fry your brain... When mine did it I WASN'T using a WAIT4ME tune. I was running my own tune via HPTuners. Although the dealer replaced both fans and the housing... Cough Cough!!! I went back to stock before the last fan replacement. In my own tune I had changed the high speed fans to kick in at a lower temp and run a little longer. Thats all I did to the fans.

Do I believe my tinkering around with the fans had something to do with it. YES, I suspect our fan system or sensors DO NOT like to be played with.

Although the dealer replaced the fans I never thought the fans were at fault. They worked, and would stay on minutes after the car was shut off. I also had an additional thing happen that is crazy around the same time. the temps pegged, got all the usual warning lights your picture shows and I pulled over, popped the hood, and actually put my hand on the blower itself and the radiator.... They were cold.. The water hoses were barely warm to the touch. THE CAR WASN'T RUNNING HOT IT JUST THOUGHT IT WAS. I knew then the problem wasn't a hardware failure...

So can I say CIWS's problem is Jess' fault.. NO, I really don't think our cars like the fans screwed with by any software.


CIWS Did you actually check you were running hot by touching stuff or did you only go by the DIC? Because by every indication on mine I was at defcon 5 melt down, but when I actually checked with my hands and fingers I was actually running cool, due to all the fans running at high all the time.


PS mine would also tell me it was overheating and by the next day driving to the dealer it would clear itself and everything would turn back to normal while driving it.

I honestly think its a bug in our stock software or a very touchy sensor in the fan assembly. Change 1 parameter and that change exposes the bug.

 

[CIWS]

CIWS Did you actually check you were running hot by touching stuff or did you only go by the DIC? Because by every indication on mine I was at defcon 5 melt down, but when I actually checked with my hands and fingers I was actually running cool, due to all the fans running at high all the time.

I literally could not touch any surface under the hood, plastic or metal was fracking hot as hell. But should I expect less when it's 103+ out ?

My car was consistent in that if the outside temps were that hot, after driving it with the A/C on for roughly 30 minutes it could no longer keep the car cool. If I would turn the A/C off it would climb into the red, but would stay around 3/4 of the way up with water temp readings. This is mostly in city driving (stop and go). When stopped at a light it would begin to rise, once I could get moving for any decent speed like 45 it would keep it out of the higher temp range but it still stayed around 3/4 of the way up.

As most owners here should agree from their experience with the car, the water temp reading generally stays just below half. Ever since the ECM has been swapped back the car has stayed as it normally does. With high afternoon temps, A/C on, and either going down the highway or driving in the streets, the car is able to keep itself cool and I've driven it continuous for distances 3 times the distance of just the drive home when I would see the issue.

 

[Blades]

While I am inclined to disagree with that, our TCM does not like it when you change any settings regarding to desired torque or TCS settings (located in the ECM).. It will not 'agree' to downshift when you command it to using TUTD aka manual mode. You can be at 0mph, upshift to 2nd gear and it will not want to downshift back to 1st gear.. The only time it will downshift back is if you start moving and then come to a stop.. as it naturally does.

That said, its not likely the fan settings will interfere with the ECT, oil temp, and TFT sensors. More than likely, at the oil temps CIWS was seeing (along with trans temps), the oil pressure would be slightly different.. along with the smell and look of the oil itself.. I think synthetic is good to 300F.. Mid 200s is nuts. I get worried when my Turbo TBSS cooks up the oil to 219-225.. And thats with a turbo doing most of the 'cooking'. We also hold 9 quarts of oil... not easy to heat up to that temp.

If this happens again, verify with an external temp sensor.. even if its something like the surface temp of the radiator..

wait4me: I thought we had 160 T-stats.. My temps are comparable to my TBSS with a 160 T-stat (at night time, highway speeds).. 174-176 deg F.

BTW: My STS-V's fan settings are stock.. The ignition off fan settings, along with the zones, are far from stock. The cooling system in this car does an impressive job, even without the fans running.. provided you are cruising above 40mph. I will try adjusting the stock fan settings tonight and see if all hell breaks loose. I like wait4me's approach for cooling the heat exchanger using more aggressive ECT fan on temps.

 

[WillySTS]

Do I believe my tinkering around with the fans had something to do with it. YES, I suspect our fan system or sensors DO NOT like to be played with.

THE CAR WASN'T RUNNING HOT IT JUST THOUGHT IT WAS. I knew then the problem wasn't a hardware failure...

So can I say CIWS's problem is Jess' fault.. NO, I really don't think our cars like the fans screwed with by any software.



PS mine would also tell me it was overheating and by the next day driving to the dealer it would clear itself and everything would turn back to normal while driving it.

I honestly think its a bug in our stock software or a very touchy sensor in the fan assembly.

That may not be correct...:hide: If I may..ahem...

We have a customer who owns a 2006 STS-V that does that, shows over heat condition,bells,warnings,all of that and it is true it truely is NOT OVERHEATING. This guy is the 2nd owner of the car, he bought it from a saleman who works here who bought it new, so I know,everybody knows it is stock. We haven't figured it out yet because it does not set a code and has not done it once while we have the car.:cookoo: We have replace the coolant temp sensor and pinned all the related wiring(no, I am not the writer involved, I'm just looking over their shoulders)but have not seen the actual malfunction...this is with a stock ECU.

What do you think about that?

 

[CIWS]

What do you think about that?

Has the dealership attempted to flash his ECM with the latest updates from GM for the car ?

 

[LITTLEELVISDAN]

That may not be correct...:hide: If I may..ahem...

We have a customer who owns a 2006 STS-V that does that, shows over heat condition,bells,warnings,all of that and it is true it truely is NOT OVERHEATING. This guy is the 2nd owner of the car, he bought it from a saleman who works here who bought it new, so I know,everybody knows it is stock. We haven't figured it out yet because it does not set a code and has not done it once while we have the car.:cookoo: We have replace the coolant temp sensor and pinned all the related wiring(no, I am not the writer involved, I'm just looking over their shoulders)but have not seen the actual malfunction...this is with a stock ECU.

What do you think about that?

What you are seeing is exactly what mine was doing. Never threw a code and did it intermittenly. If I could have recorded my life during that you would be playing it back exactly. Mine was with stock ECU. Stock everything. I will dig around in my service records and post up what the dealer did to finally fix it.

 

[CIWS]

I my particular case the car only overheated when the outside temps were at the levels I've already stated. I did notice days before when outsides temps were in the mid 90s that my water temp gauge would go up to just above the half mark line, roughly about the distance it usually stays below the half mark, when I was driving in city traffic, but to be honest I just wrote it off as "it's just getting hotter out".
Last summer I never had any issues, but last summer the car still had the stock ECM in it. Unfortunately we had a "cold front" move through yesterday morning and our forecasts for the next week is only to see highs in the mid / high 90s, and it just didn't make itself obvious under those conditions. But I have no doubt our 100+ temps will return because it's only mid July and our hottest month is August.

Something I do want to make clear here. I am not trying to ward off anyone from dealing with Jesse. My situation is my situation and only for me to deal with as I see fit.

 

[Jpjr]

I'd also like to get back to the cat issue, and what might be causing you guys to throw the emissions codes.

 

[Blades]

I changed the fan settings.. no overheating. One thing I did notice was that the fan commanded % must go above 50% for low speed to start or enable.. must go (guessing) above 90% for the high speed to enable.. High speed is disabled below 50%, all fans stop running when commanded % reaches 0%... Have either of you guys verified whether or not this ECT/TFT/OilTemp error occurs when the system is set to metric? Does it convert from the farenheit #s correctly?

 

[Indyblue98]

sorry guys I havent had time ot bring the car in this past week. I'll do it tomorrow and let you all know.

Any progress ?

Took mine in and they ordered parts, only going to get one side replaced.
But they got in the wrong side:bigroll:
Still waiting for parts.
Now the sound is like bearings gone bad in a water pump, but only when its cold started, mechanic said thats what it does as the guts get seperated.

 

[LITTLEELVISDAN]

Sorry, not in the shop yet. I left for a 2 week vacation in the Bahamas and am still here. I get baci on the 6th so the following Monday might be a good time to bring it in.

 

[Florian]

Dan,
you suck. Bahamas :mumble:


F

 

[LITTLEELVISDAN]

Yeah! Got 6-Lobster, 1-20lb Grouper, and 22 Conch's all in 6 hours of free diving/spear fishing today... Heading back to get more on Wednesday....