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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have looked all over the place to find out what size the stock subwoofer is in a 2002 Escalade. The reason I am wondering is because i would like to replace the stock sub in order to keep a system hidden and out of they way. Has anyone done this or would you know anything about this. I am guessing the sub is an 8" but I can't find it in any owners manuals, etc. so that I can further research my options as to how I can try to get this done. Any information, or help/advice, please let me know so I can try this soon. Thanks guys.
 

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I think you would be better off adding a powered sub or sub/amp to add bass. If you are not happy with the bass of the stock sub then you will need more power. I wouldn't try to add an amp to a sub in the stock spot. That will likely just rattle too much unless you do a good dynamat job. Infinity basslink would be a cheap way to add some good clean bass and not take up much space. Also, I think you can get a "custom" box that fits under the rear seats.
 

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This might be too late... But I am installing an MTX thunderform enclosure right now, it doesn't have the amp built in, that would have made it a lot easier, since now i have to find a place to install the amp.
 

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2004 Escalade 2WD
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This might be too late... But I am installing an MTX thunderform enclosure right now, it doesn't have the amp built in, that would have made it a lot easier, since now i have to find a place to install the amp.
I had MTX sledgehammers (7500 series) in my 04 escalade. It's pretty easy to install to the stock system. I bolted my amp to the back of the speaker box. Never had problems with it and it was pushing 900 amps rms (never overheating). Had to remove the 3rd row seats but I never used them anyway. I really didn't understand your question but I think you were just asking where to install the amp.
 

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2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV
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It sounds like you want to replace the stock subwoofer. The stock subwoofer isn't a standard size OR shape. You can't swap them out. You'll either 1. need to throw something in the back like most people do, 2. get one of the custom fit enclosures to go under the seat or in the rear on the side, or 3. have something custom built.
 

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2002 Escalade
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I was going to recommend the MTX which is what porta got. Personally the best solution would just to get a sub box and new sub. It does take up some room, but is totally worth it. A great place to put the amp is under the rear seats. Plenty of room and looks great once completed.
 

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So, My install is complete, i installed the MTX thunderform and it looks good (you don't see it at all other than the speaker through the grill), sounds better than I thought, but isn't up to my normal standards (I had 4-10" Kicker solo-baric L7's in my suburban... Definately a bit of a downgrade...Haha) It is sound way better than the stock sub. I will try and get a couple pics taken tonight...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is it possible to fit a 12" sub in while still retaining the back seats? The reason I ask is because I just bought a 12" JL W3 for $15 from a friend who had used it for 1 month a long time ago and didnt re-install into a new truck. So if possible I would like to use this, but I want to keep my seats as well. Anyone know if this is possible?
 

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Okay, did anyone have any problems with alternator noise when using a aftermarket 4 channel amp and the factory radio? I learned that you can't really use the line out converter at the bose amp because every channel is crossed over. To add to the mess your signal coming out of the head unit is a common ground and already a low voltage input meaning you don't need a line out converter. So I spliced some nice rca's straight into the front channels using the same ground for the left and right channels, but i'm getting alternator noise and it's killing me. My 4 channel is only running the doors. I left the bose amp to run the tweeters in the A pillars, the center speakers below the center console and the rear speakers in the back pillars. There's no way a 4-channel amp is going to run all those channels. Don't get me wrong it sounds great and is loud as hell, except for the noise. I did add a Kicker KQ9 EQ to add the ability to change the sound beyond the stock head unit. I ran zero gauge to under the second row seats and split it off to 4 gauge to both of my amps. I'm running an Alpine 1000 watt RMS and Hifonics 800 watt 4 channel amp. I disconnected the factory sub and have a pioneer premier sub in a Bass Pro Box. The sub can handle 3500watts max and hits lows like you won't believe (12 inch). I just can't get rid of this damn noise. I also isolated the remote from the remote coming out of the head unit using a relay switch, grounded the EQ to the chassis, grounded the negative battery terminal to the frame using 0 gauge. I'm not sure what else I can do. I don't want to use a noise filter. That takes away from your sound quality.
 

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Sorry dude, didn't mean to write a book on your post. But to answer CEPMAN. You have no problems, My box is a whopping 2 cubic ft and fits with the third row. You can get one half the size and be good. My seats will go in, but the back of them won't lock back which is fine with me. Guess whoever sits in the third row will have to sit straight up with some earbuds and a bottle of Aleeve.
 

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2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV
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I have an aftermarket head unit and the official GMOS piece that is supposed to be used to interface with the stock amp, and I STILL have a little alternator noise. I think the only way to get rid of it is to bypass the pactory amp. I've been 'meaning' to tackle this for over a year now - just kinda never got around to it.
 

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02' EXT
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Kenwood DD, gmos, steering wheel control, 2 12's on a mono 1000 rms at 2ohms and factory amp untouched. Sounds great. No alt noise what so ever. I am however splicing into the factory amp as we speak to add in F & R components. I've been driving around with sliced wires on the amp and still no interference. Maybe its the way you ran your wires for the after market subs.
 

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Okay, did anyone have any problems with alternator noise when using a aftermarket 4 channel amp and the factory radio? I learned that you can't really use the line out converter at the bose amp because every channel is crossed over. To add to the mess your signal coming out of the head unit is a common ground and already a low voltage input meaning you don't need a line out converter. So I spliced some nice rca's straight into the front channels using the same ground for the left and right channels, but i'm getting alternator noise and it's killing me. My 4 channel is only running the doors. I left the bose amp to run the tweeters in the A pillars, the center speakers below the center console and the rear speakers in the back pillars. There's no way a 4-channel amp is going to run all those channels. Don't get me wrong it sounds great and is loud as hell, except for the noise. I did add a Kicker KQ9 EQ to add the ability to change the sound beyond the stock head unit. I ran zero gauge to under the second row seats and split it off to 4 gauge to both of my amps. I'm running an Alpine 1000 watt RMS and Hifonics 800 watt 4 channel amp. I disconnected the factory sub and have a pioneer premier sub in a Bass Pro Box. The sub can handle 3500watts max and hits lows like you won't believe (12 inch). I just can't get rid of this damn noise. I also isolated the remote from the remote coming out of the head unit using a relay switch, grounded the EQ to the chassis, grounded the negative battery terminal to the frame using 0 gauge. I'm not sure what else I can do. I don't want to use a noise filter. That takes away from your sound quality.
Sounds like you know more than I do about all this but I'm learning from your post and others I did install my own head unit it's a power acoustic refurbished PDN-621HB . l got some CTS five and a quarters crossovers in the back doors .I have some JBL with the crossover up front I have some skar super tweeters for the old console speakers holes the CTS tweets in the back pillars while using the factory Bose powered amp sub I was wanting to add a speaker aftermarket you know and I just learned that it's a off the Wall shape and size I guess I'm going to pull it apart and look at it and see what I can do. that's what I was going to relay to you that. I think the air compressor that operates the ride gets in the way sometimes maybe the process of elimination works . by disconnecting certain things that you can while operating everything else that's what I do. I hope you find your problems cuz I had that problem before the popping makes you cringe about your speakers embarrassing too when you're having an audition showing it 📴 I feel you.I won't let anybody touch my stereo or my car I did it all myself the hard way. Guidance of the good Lord I got a better than average stereo. Oh yeah thanks for breaking down everything in details that helps. I'm thinking now what's going to happen when I unhook that subwoofer amp in the back if it shuts my tweeters off in the console and the pillars in back. Wow thanks I'm already in there taking it apart and doing something different than I had planned thanks for all the help.
 
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