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Discussion Starter #1
Hello to All. I have an 84 Eldorado that need new brake hoses. I've checked on line and found some Youtube video tutorials but for other cars. I hope the Eldorado hoses are similar to the others. That's my question. Are there any little surprises that Cadillac dreamed up to make it harder? Any do's and don'ts? I want to change all four corners and I see the front hoses are different from the rear even though the car has disks all the way around. Any surprises for that part? Anyway, I'm just looking for some guidance to make this job successful because at the end of the day.............it's the brakes!!!!! I could take it to a garage but it seems to me it's not rocket science. Needs to be done properly which I believe I can handle. ANy comments/suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Super Moderator 2011 CTS SportWagon
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Use line wrenches. Crack bleeders BEFORE taking the hoses off. No point in removing hoses carefully if you can't open (or break) bleeders
 

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Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
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Hello to All. I have an 84 Eldorado that need new brake hoses. I've checked on line and found some Youtube video tutorials but for other cars. I hope the Eldorado hoses are similar to the others. That's my question. Are there any little surprises that Cadillac dreamed up to make it harder? Any do's and don'ts? I want to change all four corners and I see the front hoses are different from the rear even though the car has disks all the way around. Any surprises for that part? Anyway, I'm just looking for some guidance to make this job successful because at the end of the day.............it's the brakes!!!!! I could take it to a garage but it seems to me it's not rocket science. Needs to be done properly which I believe I can handle. ANy comments/suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Are there any little surprises that Cadillac dreamed up to make it harder?
NOPE - flex hoses are flex hoses -
HOWEVER -
you are dealing with a 35 year old car -
the chances that the fitting on the steel brake line will easily easily break loose and spin freely
fall somewhere between slim and none -

GET PREPARED -
start lubing up the connections with PB-Blaster - DAYS before the operation -

as jay suggested - ONLY USE SPECIALTY LINE WRENCHES -

support BOTH sides of the connection and GENTLY try to unscrew the fitting from the hose -

if the steel tubing starts to twist - STOP - or you'll have to replace steel lines too -
a kink in a steel brake line is NOT ACCEPTABLE -

next step would be to apply some heat to the fitting - HOPING to expand it - and break it loose from the steel line -

GOOD LUCK - TAKE YOUR TIME -

REMEMBER - if you twist/kink the steel line - it MUST be replaced -
 

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About the only thing unique to this process is that the rear hoses are not on the caliper, they make the jump from the frame to the control arm forward of the rear wheel. It's in a tight spot to get into to complicate matters further...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advice. Take it easy on the fittings is part of my plan. Will WD 40 work instead of PB Blaster? Myself and the car live in Germany so I can't just go down to local parts store.
 

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You need something like Pbblaster and wd40 isn't the same. You need a penetrating oil like Liquid wrench, Kroil, etc.
I'll also say a quality line wrench, nothing like rounding the heads on a brake line when el cheapo set doesn't fit snugly or bends.
 

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Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
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Thanks for the advice. Take it easy on the fittings is part of my plan. Will WD 40 work instead of PB Blaster? Myself and the car live in Germany so I can't just go down to local parts store.
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Will WD 40 work instead of PB Blaster?
NO - WD40 is great for a lot of things -
BUT - it just doesn't work very well as a rust penetrating fluid -
 
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