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Must admit I am a bit concerned about the consistent 14.8-15.2vdc I am reading in the lighter socket. If a device is designed for 10-12vdc and it is consistently run 25% over that, I cannot predict how long it will last.

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You're still in the normal range. I posted on this subject in a thread posted by someone else expressing the same concern and listed about three potential causes, one of which was a possible weak battery. When the owner replaced the battery, voltage came down to a more comfortable level. I believe the specs I posted indicated up to 15.3 volts is within the normal range of what the computer can command (the computer sets voltage output through PWM (pulse width modulation). High electrical loads (lots of stuff going on in the center console) and a weak battery, or connection at the battery.
 

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Here it is; 10%=11V, to 90%=15.5V. Normal duty cycle is from 5-99%, above and below that parameter is for diagnostics.

You probably never saw it because as I've complained gently about before, thread subject lines need to strongly represent the content in the thread.
 

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My boys leSabre is occasionally in the 15-15.2% range on the DIC and it displays as "normal".
 

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Well GM also considers 220F coolant and 5 psi oil pressure at idle (NorthStar) as "Normal", however they do not consider life after the warrenty expires. OTOH I have four cars made in the last century so have a different idea of "normal" and find if you run on the low side of "normal" things usually last a lot longer.
 

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Nothing is normal nomore.
 
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Well GM also considers 220F coolant and 5 psi oil pressure at idle (NorthStar) as "Normal", however they do not consider life after the warrenty expires. OTOH I have four cars made in the last century so have a different idea of "normal" and find if you run on the low side of "normal" things usually last a lot longer.
Agreed--take note that I used the word 'occasionally' in my post. If the value is constantly in that range, it would be cause for concern IMO.

Interestingly on the leSabre, battery voltage is the only gauge given a definitive high (16.2v) and a low (10.5v) value in the manual.
Temp & oil press are only listed in the OM as: "when temp/pressure is low/high, a message will appear on the DIC indicating temp/pressure is low/high. No certain ° or psi value is assigned.
 

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I just had a new OEM battery installed less than a couple of weeks ago. I have shown as high as 15.2 with the norm around 14.8.
 
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That makes two of us with the same values. GM may consider it "normal" but the battery experts do not. "It is very important, however, to limit the maximum battery voltage during charging otherwise the
battery will be damaged. The battery voltage should not exceed 13.8 volts for long periods and 14.4 volts for short periods"
 

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That makes two of us with the same values. GM may consider it "normal" but the battery experts do not. "It is very important, however, to limit the maximum battery voltage during charging otherwise the
battery will be damaged. The battery voltage should not exceed 13.8 volts for long periods and 14.4 volts for short periods"
The voltage limit you pointed out is mainly for glass mat (AGM) batteries like the Sears Diehard Platinum series, and some Optima models for example, they require a special battery charger, or setting because the typical 12 volt battery charger that is not specified for that type of battery, actually charges at a much higher voltage which is not a problem for the average lead acid battery which most are probably using. Upon reading that some years ago, I put a multimeter on my old 2/6 amp charger and sure enough the output was over 16 volts. That of course was after I fried a Platinum series battery using a heavy duty charger in about 30 minutes, no doubt because of the charge rate, high.

It's not just the voltage, it's a combination of the voltage and amp rate the battery is being charged at. More heat is generated during a recharge cycle at a high amp rate, and high amp charge rates at lower voltages closer to 12 can be just as bad. Note that there is an amp sensing clamp on the battery cable in the trunk and since GM has been using the PWM charging method since at least the early 2000s without an industry/customer complaint about batteries failing prematurely, I'd say this is one spec you can trust them on. The computer is probably keeping tabs on the battery state and being careful to manage it just right.

I wouldn't worry about it unless you haven't outgrown that childhood urge to test voltage by putting your tongue on the cable ends. I got discouraged and stopped with the 18 volts coming from my HO scale train set power pack. I apparently wasn't learning enough from the 9 volt battery. Childhood is dangerous.
 

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Well I always replace batteries with AGM, in most cars they last much longer.
When I compared the additional weight of an AGM battery to that of the equivalent lead acid battery, I quickly concluded that would be a path not traveled for me. I haven't had a horrible enough experience with longevity among the lead acid batteries to make the jump either, although I admired the generally higher Cold Cranking Amp (CCA) ratings.

Perhaps the higher voltage readings you and tinman are seeing are related to relatively fully charged batteries given his is recent. From what I've observed on the display, the more stuff I turn on, the more the voltage reading drops. 14.8 a few seconds after startup and a gradual trickle down to about 12.8 with defrosters and headlights on and back up to about 13.2 with it all shut off.

What you need to get your voltage down to something you're more comfortable with is my 3+ yr old Delco battery, I'm willing to trade.
 

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Interesting. When I moved to Florida in 1984 I had three cars and used to have to replace a battery every 18 months (back then I had one with a JC Penney "Lifetime" battery). After switching to AGMs now with seven cars I buy one a year when on sale to have "a spare" mainly for new acquisitions and backup for the router. This century I have had two AGMs fail. Newer noticed a lot of difference in weight. Did drive a GMC motor home from Orlando to Bentonville with a failed unobtanium alternator and a single grp 31 AGM (drove during day, charged at night).
 

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Just to keep this up to date. I received a phone call regarding my claim for the Radio control. As most of you mentioned, GM will not offer any type of reimbursement for the defective part claiming of course the vehicle is out of warranty. Still love my car, and am very happy with Ken B's Cadillac in San Antonio. The decision came from a "district manager" at GM, and of course when I asked to speak to the "district manager" directly I was told no. So the big bureaucracy has won again. I might continue digging to find a better contact to discuss this issue with. Seems like a great "class action" lawsuit. At $800 a pop P&L seems like you get a couple thousand together and this becomes a lucrative lawsuit.
 

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I bought an '11 coupe that is very confused about what it is so I am making a Grand Prix out of it (had four, two with manual transmissions). Is going to be a great GT/road/personal car. I bought a service manual before the car and glad it has a timing chain instead of a belt like my last one.

First thing I look for when a console or whole dash goes dark is a bad ground. GM electronics are really very rugged. Do not like the 15.0-15.2v I am seeing and need to either reseat or replace or kabang the w/s washer fluid low sensor.

Unless there is a recall, I avoid dealers (and then decide if it is worth it) but am equipped to fix almost anything (prefer to farm out to local indies automagics and A/C).

ps many of the best cars I've had were panned by the critics (e.g. three Vega GTs and an Astre SW) but all have been "interesting" (and since 1978 all have had A/C, many have manual transmissions though one of the great advances since the mid-80s has been in automatic transmissions). Have would up reprogramming most to some extent (though keep one that has no electronics except the radio).For me a car has to provide transportation, be a hobby, and a lifestyle. Suspect an autobiography would be classed as fiction.
Hey man, did you end up finding a lasting fix to your issue?

Sometimes, I experience this when I first start it up but the radio will still play and then a few seconds later the thing will power on. But a couple of times I've had it where the whole center section will be dead and there's nothing I can do to get it to come on until the next day when I go to start the car again and everything is happy again for no reason whatsoever LOL Yesterday, I tried turning the car off and on several times when this happened and the center section was just dead. Then I hopped in last night to run an errand and everything was peachy. Really odd and I'm not finding a rhyme or reason just yet.
 

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Yes fix was I replaced the year old conventional battery that came with the car with a Duracell AGM (Sam's has AGM sales several times a year). The old battery is now happy in my Jeep.
 

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Yes fix was I replaced the year old conventional battery that came with the car with a Duracell AGM (Sam's has AGM sales several times a year). The old battery is now happy in my Jeep.
Interesting. I've got an AGM battery in the car currently that is almost 2 years old. I wonder if it could be going bad already? Although, that seems like a short life span for an AGM battery that is basically out of the weather with where they are located on these cars, but that could be possible. I'll test the battery and see what those results are.

Thank you, sir.
 

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Interesting. I've got an AGM battery in the car currently that is almost 2 years old. I wonder if it could be going bad already? Although, that seems like a short life span for an AGM battery that is basically out of the weather with where they are located on these cars, but that could be possible. I'll test the battery and see what those results are.

Thank you, sir.
Not likely unless you let it get dead enough it needed a jump.
 

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Bought at an O'Reilly's ? Think that is a store brand made by Johnson Controls so should be OK (East Penn and Johnson are the biggies). I'd want to put a battery condition tester onnit. Note: this is not a load tester, it does much more than that, can also test cranking and charging system. I do have A Lot of batteries.
 
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