I had that happen once just from leaving the fuel/range dialog selected when I turned the car off and then filled the tank up, it didn't like that. Tried restarting the car and it didn't work. Then I got out of the car and used the remote start to start it and when I got back in the car and pushed the button everything came back on. I was trying to think of a way to cause the software to enter the program at a different entry point and it seemed to work.Battery died when I left the car in neutral while doing some work on the brakes, had to charge it and when I took it for a ride the center console lights And steering wheel lights are out, I do not pull any codes. Any thoughts?
To remove this hard plastic rear end finish panel, you just need to pop off the two plastic caps covering the tie-down locations (if those are still there). Then you will see a torx bolt. Remove both of these along with the tie-down loops themselves. Then the only thing holding the finish panel on are four clips on the backside. Just wiggle and pull to release these.2013 base ATS - I am having a similar issue. Got gas on Nov. 3rd and went to start my car afterwards and it did the same (I call it a sputter) sound when doing the push to start, took a few seconds of holding down and then the engine finally turned over. My entire center console lights were out and the lights on the steering wheel column that control the volume, cruise control, etc. My center column HVAC controls work - there is an amber light coming from where it WOULD indicate "auto AC" "sync" etc. but the lights with all the words and symbols are gone. No radio/media/Bluetooth response from those buttons or dials. My OnStar light also turned red. We checked all the fuses that are located by the steering column.
My car went out of warranty in 2018 (the 5 years bumper to bumper) and i'm barely at 70k miles this month. I have another 22 months of payments. Had issues with my actuator blowing only on my feet earlier this year, my gear shift clip broke while I was getting gas (and had to have it towed) 2 months ago, and my windshield just got a crack in it the day after my console went out. Owning a Cadillac out of warranty has been a nightmare that I can't wake up from.
I don't know how to make my own post, but hoping someone sees this and has some information. Also - how do I disconnect the battery? The corner felt panel with the plastic prongs wouldn't release all the way. We were trying to get to the battery/wiring and seemed like I needed to remove the hard interior plastic panel that's against my bumper & needed a special tool.
Thank you! My battery hasn't been replaced since I purchased the used car in 2016. It has always read at 13.6v or so.Sounds like your battery might be on it's last legs. Check out vid in this post on how to replace, will also show how to disconnet battery if you want to try reset by touching terminals trick:
Reading rsingl's post #4 in this thread: https://www.cadillacforums.com/threads/battery.1090508/ got me curious. I bought my 2013 in late 2014, still running the battery it came with, which I presume is the original. I usually remote start so it comes off fast idle by the time I hop in, seemed...www.cadillacforums.com
Thank you! My battery hasn't been replaced since I purchased the used car in 2016. It has always read at 13.6v or so.
Last night I did the resetting trick without touching terminals (didn't know where the other one was lol). Unplugged the neutral one and gave it a few minutes. Plugged it back on and did a soft start without turning over the engine and it fixed all the lights. let it run like that with all the lights on only for about 3-5 minutes then turned over the engine for a full start. The quirks that followed were my remote was having trouble locking and unlocking last night - though no longer this morning; and the battery voltage on my drive last night was fine at the typical 13ish volts, but this morning it was at 15.3v. When I start my car it reads 12.6, then spikes to 13.9, then 14.8-14.9 within 30 seconds or so. - Do you think this sounds like a battery issue still, or something with the alternator? A battery is a minimal cost
They are probably a little faster on an assembly line because the bit will tend to self align to the fastener head without any work on the part of the assembler (or robot) while a regular Allen or bolt can require a little care to line up but once properly inserted the Allen bit stays in place. In manufacturing faster is cheaper and cheaper is better than good...
I too share your dislike for Torx, much prefer Allen. There must be some reason why manufacturers use Torx, I just can't figure out why.