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2008 SRX4 & 2010 CTS4 sedan / Non-Cadillacs: 2018 Audi Q5, 2012 Chev Cruze LT
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282 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
First the picture:



This is an AC Delco RW2019 hub assembly. It was one of two ordered new from RockAuto May 20, 2018 to replace two Timken rear hub assemblies which in turn had been installed on our SRX in late 2016. The hub assemblies previous to that were the OEM units that had lasted eight years without incident.

Now, I've had good experiences with Timkens over the years and with AC Delco as well. So when the two Timkens on the rear unexpectedly failed (the bearings were fine, it was the integrated speed sensors that went), I replaced those units with two Delco units. They were installed in early June, 2018 at 213,000 kms on the odometer.

My daughter was driving on a three hour highway road trip last Saturday when she called home and reported that the vehicle was pulling to the left, was noisy at the back, and was sluggish. She pulled over and discerned that the left rear wheel was very hot and smoking to beat the band.

Long story short, I had it towed to my place and when I jacked up the car, the wheel tilted. Not good.

After removing the wheel, it was clear that the rotor was loose and basically being held in place by two things: the caliper and the axle nut. Yup, the bearing had separated and the insides were cooked. Fortunately, my daughter stopped the car before the axle or cv boot were damaged but the seals on the caliper were cooked. The odo reads 222,000 kms right now.

Yesterday, I installed a new caliper and a new Timken hub assembly (chalking up the previous failure to bad luck) and all is well with the SRX again.

But now I am thinking: is this just bad luck or is my SRX eating hub assemblies?
 

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19 Escalade ESV Platinum 08 SRX N* 13/14 Escalade Platinum
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677 Posts
Possibly a recall for them?

Should be warranty?

Bad CV U joint?

Worn tire, chassis misalignment, accident?

Warped rotor due to a caliper not retracting explains the smoking
 

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2008 SRX Sport Pkg
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1,135 Posts
From my experience there are many hubs which do not work well on the SRX. I went through about 6 or 7 before I found four that lasted and even well-known brands can fail after a few months. However, the failure is normally a grinding noise or squeal and I have never seen a catastrophic failure like that. Any chance the axle nut loosened itself?
 

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EU - SRX 2004 N* (with autogaz system) AWD, 7seat, trailer hitch westfalia.
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234 Posts
OMG ! Crazy, 9 000km...
 

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Super Moderator
2014 ELR
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9,699 Posts
Have to wonder if the spindle hub hole has been damaged on one of the install/removals. Oval, oversized. Or, if the hub went in crooked/not all the way seated. I'd remove the complete spindle and have a really close look at it (and consider replacing it). I took off the spindle when I did the last bearing on my CTS, and it actually saved time, and made the bearing removal/reinstall much easier.

 

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2008 SRX4 & 2010 CTS4 sedan / Non-Cadillacs: 2018 Audi Q5, 2012 Chev Cruze LT
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282 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I installed the hub assemblies on the SRX myself. I've probably done this 8-10 times in my years as a shade-tree mechanic and I've never had a problem. I had significant issues last week removing the bolts on the back of the suspension knuckle that kept the hub nice and snug against the suspension knuckle. And the axle nut was nice and tight as well. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary with the installation and there was no funny wear pattern on any of the tires etc etc.

The caliper was not siezed and is operating perfectly well. The brakes were new last June as well (Powerstop ceramic pads). My comment about the caliper holding the outer half of the bearing in place was because of two things: The axle nut was still firmly holding on to that part of the hub assembly and, hence, the rotor (and wheel) as well; and the caliper's pad bracket was acting as a guide that was restricting the range of movement of the rotor (and, hence, the wheel). The caliper took a beating for its efforts so the bracket, pads, and the rotor needed to be replaced as well. It now drives perfectly.
 

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2004 SRX V6 AWD
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687 Posts
I think it's random bad quality.
In the good old days it was very very rare to see a wheel bearing failure and that was with the added variable of the endplay set by the mechanic with the old spindle nut and cotter pin design.

Do you know the country of manufacture on the AC Delcos?
I bought a $120 Moog and it was made in China and looks just like the 40 dollar dirtbag ones.
 

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2008 SRX4 & 2010 CTS4 sedan / Non-Cadillacs: 2018 Audi Q5, 2012 Chev Cruze LT
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282 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I think it's random bad quality.
In the good old days it was very very rare to see a wheel bearing failure and that was with the added variable of the endplay set by the mechanic with the old spindle nut and cotter pin design.

Do you know the country of manufacture on the AC Delcos?
I bought a $120 Moog and it was made in China and looks just like the 40 dollar dirtbag ones.
The boxes say that they were made in the US.

My experience tells me that premature failure is either due to the quality of the part or over-torquing of the axle nut - and I seriously doubt it was the latter.

Here are the recommended axle nut torque settings for the various SRX model years (sources: SKF and AC Delco's websites)

model years ft-lbs front / rear
2004-2007 ........118 / 118
2008-2009 ........159 / 170
2010-2016 ........184 / 185(3-step procedure)

And here's the thing: when I installed the Delcos, I believe that I may have under-torqued them. I was under the mistaken belief that it was 159 ft-lbs front and back. I have no idea why the torque settings changed from '07 to '08 but I doubt that 11 ft-lbs would have made a difference. I note that AllData shows the torque setting for the '08 as 118 ft-lbs. Timken says the same. Weird...

http://acdtorquespecs.com/ - shows 159/170
http://www.showmetheparts.com/timken/ - shows 118
https://www.skf.com/binary/81-66360/457377.pdf - shows 159/170

So maybe - just maybe - the garage that originally installed my Timkens didn't torque them properly and maybe I didn't either???

The more I read, the more confused I get. I'm going to stop reading.
 

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Super Moderator
2014 ELR
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9,699 Posts
I would definitely buy into the under-torque theory. I torque mine to spec, but techs I know swear by just banging the nut on with the gun.
 

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2007 Cadillac SRX4 3.6
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270 Posts
Didnt I read once there are 2 grades of Delco hubs, the cheap one and the OEM one? I was the guy who went though 9 hubs in a year on my SRX but when I finally had enough of the cheap shit Moog hubs, I popped for the OEM ones I had no problem. I always torqued at 159 despite mine being an 07.
 

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2006 SRX 3.6 RWD
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3 Posts
I've had a few hub failures on my2006 V6 2WD, too. The last one that went bad (roaring sound at speed, grinding at low speeds) I disassembled to see what was inside or more accurately, what wasn't inside.

There was very little bearing grease in the assembly. I had some other SRX hubs laying around, so I disassembled them, too. Same thing. Hardly any bearing grease in the assembly of any of them.

So, when the new hub arrived, I looked inside. Yep, there it wasn't. Bearing grease. Wheel bearings, in our case, hub bearings, need lubricant to provide a long trouble free service life, don't they? Yes. Yes they do.

I packed the new Hubs with a sufficient amount of wheel bearing grease and stopped the hub bearing failures. Five years going on six and no more hub failure.
 

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EU - SRX 2004 N* (with autogaz system) AWD, 7seat, trailer hitch westfalia.
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The amount of initial (and final) grease should not exceed 30% of the empty space in the bearing (not sealed).
Seals bearing (sealed with flange 2rs or 2Z), like those on the wheels, are filled with 15% low viscosity high quality grease (near 1.8 gram).
 

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2008 SRX4 & 2010 CTS4 sedan / Non-Cadillacs: 2018 Audi Q5, 2012 Chev Cruze LT
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282 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Update: After the Delco failure on the rear driver's side, I ordered a pair of Timkens assuming that the previous garage-installed Timkens' failure was a fluke. I had full intention of swapping out both Delcos last year but, on inspection and testing, the Delco on the rear passenger side was still good and I decided to leave it alone. That spare Timken has been sitting on my shelf for almost a year now.

Last night, my daughter told me she was getting an ABS message and sure enough the Timken that I put on this wheel has failed (or at least the speed sensor has). So far, in the last 30 months - just on the rear wheels alone - I have seen the original bearings fail (not the speed sensors); they were replaced by Timkens whose speed sensors failed within 13 months; those were in turn replaced with Delcos (one of which failed catastrophically as chronicled in this thread); and its replacement Timken's speed sensor has failed within 12 months.

I plan to put that spare Timken in there but I do not expect its speed sensor to last very long. Sigh...
 

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2008 SRX4 & 2010 CTS4 sedan / Non-Cadillacs: 2018 Audi Q5, 2012 Chev Cruze LT
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282 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Northern...if nothing else you get good at swapping these out.....bummer on the quality though.
Yes. Swapping these is an issue job, tbh - partly because they've not been in there long enough for the corrosion to "weld" them in place. It's still the better part of two hours of my time, though. I have put Timkens on other cars with zero problems so there is just something about how they design/build their integrated speed sensor on this part number that just doesn't hold up well. I will definitely never buy another Timken for the SRX.
 

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2004 SRX V6 AWD
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687 Posts
Get some molykote or permatex anti-seize compound and cover all mating surfaces. That should help with disassembly on the next failure.
 

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2004 Deville base
'05 SRX N*/AWD, Vetts/Birds/Trucks
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429 Posts
I wonder if the CTS/STS fail rate is high, same hubs/chassis. Weight issue?
It is terrible, many cars go 150-200k+ miles on bearings.
 

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2008 SRX4 & 2010 CTS4 sedan / Non-Cadillacs: 2018 Audi Q5, 2012 Chev Cruze LT
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282 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I wonder if the CTS/STS fail rate is high, same hubs/chassis. Weight issue?
It is terrible, many cars go 150-200k+ miles on bearings.
My CTS's hub failure rate is way better. In my CTS' case, I have had the original bearings go "squeaky" at 125k+ miles but the speed sensor ring is still intact. I have also had the reverse. I have had similar experience with the SRX. The SRX's hub design has the sensor and the ring integrated into the back of the assembly - that's neither a plus nor a minus in my view. But, I suspect that some of the aftermarket brands' hub assemblies use poor materials or sealants and that it isn't the bearing itself or the magnetic ring that disintegrates but the sensor/reader itself that cannot stand up to the elements. I have only had this with Timken brand - I believe the Delco's failure was either a manufacturing defect or my fault in torquing.
 

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2008 SRX4 & 2010 CTS4 sedan / Non-Cadillacs: 2018 Audi Q5, 2012 Chev Cruze LT
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282 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
So I did the swap this afternoon and absolutely have to post this: I ordered two Timken HA590079 bearings from Rockauto last January and installed one on the driver's rear side. I replaced that one with the second HA590079 today. Here's a picture of the old one I removed (to the right) and the replacement one (to the left). They are the same part number ordered at the same time. The one on the right looks identical to the ones the local garage installed two years ago (they both failed within roughly a year). The one on the left looks significantly better made.

I think I may have discovered my problem here...

 
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