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Aight..I was leaving work just a little bit ago, I made a right turn and was about to merge into traffic, and its a really short merge lane. I was goin like 30 mph maybe, and I noticed this car that was in the lane I was about to merge in, so I had to hit my breaks pretty hard. Well I stopped..but when I tried to hit the gas, my car wouldnt go anywhere, and my steering wheel felt like it was locked up. Anyways, I just put it in park, and turned the car back on, and drove back off. No problems on the way home.

Does anyone know what might have caused this?
 

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Crypt0nite said:
Aight..I was leaving work just a little bit ago, I made a right turn and was about to merge into traffic, and its a really short merge lane. I was goin like 30 mph maybe, and I noticed this car that was in the lane I was about to merge in, so I had to hit my breaks pretty hard. Well I stopped..but when I tried to hit the gas, my car wouldnt go anywhere, and my steering wheel felt like it was locked up. Anyways, I just put it in park, and turned the car back on, and drove back off. No problems on the way home.

Does anyone know what might have caused this?
Click the link below to read how to check for stored diagnostic codes, and post them here when you get them. That will help us tell what's going on. There are lots of possibilities with the problem you described. We will also need to know what year and model car you have.

When the car shut off, were the dash lights still on? Is the Service Engine Soon light on? Any other weird issues? Idle speed OK? How many miles on the car? Have you ever cleaned the throttle body?

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53635
 

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I know how to check for the codes..I just havent done it. And no, my service engine light has not been on, but yes..my dash lights where on, and I recall my battery light and oil light on..so I know the dash lights were still on. Its got about 155,000 on it, and no I havent cleaned the throttle body since I've had it. (Got it in September)

Its a 1992 Deville by the way
 

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2003 Escalade
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I have a 96 deville and it has done the exact same thing a couple of times. I have been trying to figure out what is going on too. My check engine light did come on for the emissions service code. I belive that it is my egr valve. But I don't know if that would cause the engine to shut off like that.
 

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99 Deville
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I have experienced the same thing in my 99 deville. The check engine light hasn't been on and I haven't checked the codes yet.

After doing some research here, I've read it could be any number of things from crank sensors to dirty TB. I'm interested to find out what it might be though.

The car has been perfect except for this issue. It's only happened a couple of times, but I am unable to consitently repeat the problem. When it does happen the dash lights are on (even the radio) and I am able to put it in N and it starts first try.

I've only had the car about a month or so and its been great so far.
 

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2003 STS w/BoseNav, 1993 Deville, 1985 Deville
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How much gas did you have in the tank when this happened?

I have a 1993 Deville. Sometimes, used to be when it was really low on gas and I made abrupt maneuvers or stop really fast, the engine quit because the fuel washed away from the pickup tube/sock in the tank.

I fixed that by replacing some fuel-related components.
 

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I have a 2000 DeVille with 115000 miles that does something similar. I have tried the dealership and other mechanics who cannot figure it out. With mine, it seems to be at a set time during the warmup period. It always happens 2-3 miles into a drive after the car has been sitting for awhile (overnight or for long periods during the day). I have even had it stall out on the freeway at 75 MPH while coasting. If my foot is on the gas, it will "chug" for a second and then its fine. Once you get past this point, it will run great all day. The dash displays the battery, same as mentioned in previous posts. The radio stays on as well. I simply put it into N and restart it. Not the preferred way to drive on the freeway, however.
If I let it warm up, as its pretty cold out now, it will stall about 5 minutes into the warmup. Once I start it again, no problem. There is always lots of gas in it, so this should not be an issue.
Does anyone else out there know what these common problems could be? I realize the intial list may be long, but I'm sure someone has encountered this before. I have had it on the computer, but after changing numerous sensors at the dealership, the problem is still not resolved.
 

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2003 Escalade
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same thing here. On the freeway it will do it about the same time on the freeway. Usually I am only going about 20 or so on the free way<RUSH HOUR>and it dies. I put it in N and it starts right up again. I wonder if there is any service bullitans or something pertaining to this problem. One would have to think if there is this many people that have the problem on the forum, it is probally a common problem.
 

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Crank position sensors, ignition switches, grounding issues, ignition modules, wiring problems, TPS sensors, IAC valves (or ISC motors), MAP/MAF sensors, fuel pumps, dirty throttle bodies, the list goes on and on. There are lots of potential causes. We need to know if there are any codes in the computer and the exact and complete details of what happens when it dies. Do the dash lights go out? Any console messages? How fast are you going when it dies? Do you have your foot on the gas when it dies? Are you braking? What gear is it in? Is it cold outside? Rainy? Any weird noises? Does it sputter or hesitate at all before it dies or does it just shut off very quickly? What has been done so far to troubleshoot the issue? Is the car having any other problems, even if they seen unrelated?
 

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Responding to your questions with the best information I can provide:

We need to know if there are any codes in the computer and the exact and complete details of what happens when it dies.
Do the dash lights go out?No, the dash lights stay on, as does the radio and fans
Any console messages? Service Engine Soon light comes on "sometimes", but not consistent.
How fast are you going when it dies?Sometimes just idling, sometimes 75 MPH and everything in between. The common thing is that it always happens about 5 minutes from startup when cold. So, whether its warming up in the driveway, or on the freeway (I live 2 minutes from the freeway, so I'm on it pretty quick) it happens at the same time.
Do you have your foot on the gas when it dies? When your foot is on the gas, you will feel a quick "chug" but it will not stall if you give it a bit more gas. Once the qucik chug is gone, always within a second or two, it will not stall the rest of the day unless allowed to completely cool for hours again.
Are you braking? If it is within the time period of the stall, it will when braking or coasting.
What gear is it in?Usually OD. If you keep it in a lower gear, of course your foot will be on the gas more, so chances are when the "chug" comes, it won't stall. But this is entirely hit and miss.
Is it cold outside? Rainy? Makes no difference. It did it on clear, hot days in August (90 degrees) and its doing it now in snowy 10 degree days at the same time during warmup.
Any weird noises?No noises.
Does it sputter or hesitate at all before it dies or does it just shut off very quickly? Yes, it will chug very quickly. It will only last one or two seconds.
What has been done so far to troubleshoot the issue?Car has been on the dealers computer and it hsa baffled them. I will attempt to get the exact readings of this and post next week.
Is the car having any other problems, even if they seen unrelated?Not a single issue with anything else. The car runs like a dream except for this common stall time problem.

Thanks for any information you can provide.
 

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I finally had some time to diagnose this problem a little further.


We need to know if there are any codes in the computer and the exact and complete details of what happens when it dies.
No codes

Do the dash lights go out?
No, the dash lights stay on, as does the radio and fans

Any console messages?
No. The only way I know it dies is because the oil light comes on. (Then I'm like WTF? turn down the radio and hear nothing. Hit N turn the key and it starts first try)

How fast are you going when it dies?
Less than 30mph

Do you have your foot on the gas when it dies?
No. It happens during 'coasting'. I.E. Foot off the gas, less than 30mph

Are you braking?
Possibly

What gear is it in?
OD

Is it cold outside? Rainy?
It never gets cold and rainy in CA :)

Any weird noises?
No

Does it sputter or hesitate at all before it dies or does it just shut off very quickly?
Just dies

What has been done so far to troubleshoot the issue?
Replaced air filter and cleaned TB (the problem hasn't happend since doing this)

Is the car having any other problems, even if they seen unrelated?
No

After doing some more reading, I decided the problem may have been caused by the TB being saturated with crap (which it was). I cleaned the throttle plate and the surface around it along with replacing the air filter. Unfortunately I saw inside the intake and it looked nasty. Are there any options for cleaning it other than completely removing it? Or am I better off leaving it alone for now? The car has 160,000 miles and I'm hoping it goes for another 100,000 before I start taking it apart.

Since doing the cleaning, the problem has not occured, but I have only driven the car once since then. I will try to keep updated.

Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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The "nasty" intake is normal. It does not require cleaning, does no harm and will only get "nasty" again. What you are seeing is oily residue from the PCV gasses and as our old friend called it "heavy ends of fuel" I believe. When the engine is running these gasses are pulled through the intake and burned, but when you shut down, they are trapped in there and eventually settle and get attracted to the sides of the manifold via the manifold cooling (dew point, condensation thing). These are dry manifolds as there is no fuel/air mixture flowing throught them (fuel is injected at the intake ports) to clean it like in a carburated engine. It IS ugly in there, but normal and harmless.
 

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yeah i have a 96 deville and now it is doing it at every stop light, only does it when its in gear and sometimes it will do it when im coasting at like 20 mph, its really makin me mad becuase i have to throw it in neurtal at every stop light or else it will stall...its wierd
 

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The same thing with my 01 Deville. Had the fuel filter changed and my mechcanic says that the idle sensor needs to be replaced. The car is reving high at 850-900 in drive when I was used to seeing 650. When I put it in Neutral it would shoot up to 1350-1500 and not idle down. The codes were IPC 1016 AND 1064 HISTORY. Then PCM P0507,then after the fuel filter change I have P0507 current. The part is about $250 and he said he'll have it Tuesday. The car has been steller up until this point and whatever it takes to keep my baby rolling works for me. It started running warmer than it ever has and that made me think about the head gaskit and I will have the radiator serviced also since it is due and I've never had it done since I bought the car. The orange stuff is in there and its supposed to be good for 5yrs right? We'll see how it goes Tuesday.:suspense:
 

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Codes are as follows:

PO385
PO386 Current
PO 463 History
PO 1106 History
PO 1599 History
PCC U1000 History
SDM U1040 History

Can any of of these explain the stalling?
 

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deblar said:
Codes are as follows:

PO385
PO386 Current
PO 463 History
PO 1106 History
PO 1599 History
PCC U1000 History
SDM U1040 History

Can any of of these explain the stalling?
Yes, the P0385 and P0386 are telling you that the Crankshaft Position Sensors are bad. You have a 2000-model car, and those sensors are known to be a sore point on 2000 cars. Replace both of those, and that will probably eliminate the stalling problem. The P1106 code is telling you that the MAP sensor may have a problem. Intermittent high voltage from the MAP sensor is what the code says, so it may need the wiring or harness checked or repaired and/or the sensor replaced. The P1599 just says that a stall was detected. The U1000 code means "Class 2 Communication Malfunction," which means one of the modules in the car WAS malfunctioning or there is a wiring fault on the class 2 serial bus, but that code is in history, so it's not happening right now. I don't think that will contribute to your stalling problem, but it could result in other bizarre electrical phenomena. The U1040 code means "U1040 - Loss of Class 2 Communications with ABS," so that could be telling you that the ABS computer is the one causing the U1000 code and may need to be checked or replaced. Maybe ewill3rd will chime in here with his professional opinion as he works on these cars every day.

I would say those crank position sensors definitely should be replaced with new ones, and that will eliminate the stalling problem, but the MAP sensor and the ABS computer issue are also in need of inspection and possibly repair.

Let us know what you find and what you wind up doing with it. We'll try to answer your questions and help you get your car back up to 100% again.
 

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Thanks very much for the help! Was out of town for a week, so will get on this now and post back results. Thanks again.

Larry
 

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Hello Deblar, i have a 2000 deville with same problem, how did you make out with yours??
Pete,NJ
 
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