Cadillac Owners Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
2007 cadillac cts 2.8
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just bought my 07 cts 2.8 two months ago. I just had new front brake pads put on it two weeks ago because I had the brakes looked at and they said that was all I needed. However when I am on the highway and hit the brakes at speeds above 60 mph my car and my steering wheel begin to shake rather violenly and it does not do this at lower speeds. I do have aftermArket 20 inch rims on the car that came with it when I purchased it. What could be causing this issue? Is it the large rims? Warped rotora( however I believe they would have told me when at my shop that I needed new rotors when they did pads)? Any ideas suggestions? Any and all suggestions r greatly appreciated. Thks .
 

·
Registered
CADILLAC CTS 2008 DI
Joined
·
112 Posts
Im having the same problem and it looks like it's the rotors. Took it to the mechanic today for an oil change and when it was hoisted you could see the uneven wear on the rotors.
What rotors and brake pads would you guys recommend for us guys up here in the great white north? lol Toronto, Canada.

My mechanic suggested Wagner...are these any good?
 

·
Registered
2007 CTS, 2007 ESV
Joined
·
263 Posts
Hi, I have an 07-3.6, i always use Napa ultra premium rotors and ceramic pads, I paid $450 for all new rotors and pads- F & R. I have put these on all my cars and I have never had any issues.

Matter a fact I bought the same for my father in law who lives in Canada, I can get them much cheaper here.

Make sure they lub the caliper guides with proper grease, my car's brakes are awsome now.
 

·
Registered
CADILLAC CTS 2008 DI
Joined
·
112 Posts
Hi, I have an 07-3.6, i always use Napa ultra premium rotors and ceramic pads, I paid $450 for all new rotors and pads- F & R. I have put these on all my cars and I have never had any issues.

Matter a fact I bought the same for my father in law who lives in Canada, I can get them much cheaper here.

Make sure they lub the caliper guides with proper grease, my car's brakes are awsome now.
Thanks!
Are the rotors slotted? Are the R1 Condepts avaiable in Toronto, Canada?
I found a guy on kijiji selling all four rotors and pads for $400...the rotors are "Qualis" name brand and two of the pads are Wagner Thermo Quiet Ceramic pads and the other two are Nascar Advantage pads. Is this a good deal? And how do i know if this will fit my car i have the 2004 cts 3.6L with the 17" tires?...
 

·
Registered
2003 CTS Base and 2014 Cadillac CTS VSport Premium
Joined
·
548 Posts
R1 is a vendor on the site. i bought drilled and slotted, front and rear with ceramic pads for $280 us dollars
Is this price still being offered? I'm in need of replacing my rotors and brake pads.
 

·
Registered
05 CTS
Joined
·
1,395 Posts
Teedoe said:
Is this price still being offered? I'm in need of replacing my rotors and brake pads.
Give them a call. I think the price went up to $300- 350.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
I bought two set of slotted and drilled rotors and ceramic pads from ebay so far and have been happy with what I got.
 

·
Super Moderator
'05 CTS-V
Joined
·
7,960 Posts
Classic sign of warped rotors.
Since the problem apparently wasn't happening before installing the new pads, how did the rotors suddenly become warped?

More likely, this is a classic sign of uneven pad deposits due to improper bedding of the new pads onto the rotors. See here.

I just bought my 07 cts 2.8 two months ago. I just had new front brake pads put on it two weeks ago because I had the brakes looked at and they said that was all I needed. However when I am on the highway and hit the brakes at speeds above 60 mph my car and my steering wheel begin to shake rather violenly and it does not do this at lower speeds. I do have aftermArket 20 inch rims on the car that came with it when I purchased it. What could be causing this issue? Is it the large rims? Warped rotora( however I believe they would have told me when at my shop that I needed new rotors when they did pads)? Any ideas suggestions? Any and all suggestions r greatly appreciated. Thks .
If the problem didn't exist before installing the new pads, then logically it can't be due to the 20" wheels. As I said above, the problem is due to uneven pad deposits on the rotor. New pads used on old rotors need to be "bedded in" to develop an even transfer layer of pad material. That's particularly important if the new pads are a different compound than the old pads (different manufacturer or different type of pad).

If you're comfortable working on the car yourself, my suggestion would be to remove the rotors and scrub the wear surfaces with a Scotch-brite disk on a drill (like this - you can typically find that kit in the painting section at auto parts places). Spend maybe 30sec or a minute on each side of the rotor, then clean each side with some brake cleaner and a rag, and re-install the rotors. Then you need to bed the pads in on the "clean" scuffed surface you've created. You can find a variety of recommendations on how to bed in pads online, but generally the idea is to do 8 or 10 hard braking events from 60mph down to 10 or 20mph (not hard enough to engage ABS, but you want to brake harder than you normally would rolling up to a stop sign). Don't let the brakes cool off between stops, and if at all possible, don't come to a complete stop (if you have to stop, don't keep your foot on the brake pedal). Once you've done the multiple braking events, get up to speed for 10 or 15min and let the brakes cool.

Here's Stoptech's version of a bed in procedure. They have you do the cycle twice, but I can't say I've ever found a need to do that.

If you're not comfortable working on the car yourself, then it's probably easiest / most cost effective to just have the rotors replaced. I'm a fan of Centric Premium rotors, and rockauto.com has excellent prices.

Edit: Yes, I realize the OP's post was 7 months ago and he's probably resolved his problems by now. (Or he's been really, really miserable while driving since October!) The above is just posted for general knowledge, since people often think they need to replace "warped" rotors when in fact a quick clean up and bedding of the pads will fix the issue.
 

·
Registered
2005 CTS 3.6L V6
Joined
·
19 Posts
Since the problem apparently wasn't happening before installing the new pads, how did the rotors suddenly become warped?

More likely, this is a classic sign of uneven pad deposits due to improper bedding of the new pads onto the rotors. See here.


If the problem didn't exist before installing the new pads, then logically it can't be due to the 20" wheels. As I said above, the problem is due to uneven pad deposits on the rotor. New pads used on old rotors need to be "bedded in" to develop an even transfer layer of pad material. That's particularly important if the new pads are a different compound than the old pads (different manufacturer or different type of pad).

If you're comfortable working on the car yourself, my suggestion would be to remove the rotors and scrub the wear surfaces with a Scotch-brite disk on a drill (like this - you can typically find that kit in the painting section at auto parts places). Spend maybe 30sec or a minute on each side of the rotor, then clean each side with some brake cleaner and a rag, and re-install the rotors. Then you need to bed the pads in on the "clean" scuffed surface you've created. You can find a variety of recommendations on how to bed in pads online, but generally the idea is to do 8 or 10 hard braking events from 60mph down to 10 or 20mph (not hard enough to engage ABS, but you want to brake harder than you normally would rolling up to a stop sign). Don't let the brakes cool off between stops, and if at all possible, don't come to a complete stop (if you have to stop, don't keep your foot on the brake pedal). Once you've done the multiple braking events, get up to speed for 10 or 15min and let the brakes cool.

Here's Stoptech's version of a bed in procedure. They have you do the cycle twice, but I can't say I've ever found a need to do that.

If you're not comfortable working on the car yourself, then it's probably easiest / most cost effective to just have the rotors replaced. I'm a fan of Centric Premium rotors, and rockauto.com has excellent prices.

Edit: Yes, I realize the OP's post was 7 months ago and he's probably resolved his problems by now. (Or he's been really, really miserable while driving since October!) The above is just posted for general knowledge, since people often think they need to replace "warped" rotors when in fact a quick clean up and bedding of the pads will fix the issue.
Hello, I have an '05 CTS and this same issue just started out of the blue, will doing what you suggested work or should I just replace the rotors?
 

·
Registered
96 FWB
Joined
·
194 Posts
.
.
.
More likely, this is a classic sign of uneven pad deposits due to improper bedding of the new pads onto the rotors. See here.


.
.
.
I did not click the "see here", but +1,000,000 more this one nonetheless

What I read 35 years ago, glazing cannot be cleaned, sanded or even ground off a crystallized pad/shoe or turned off a disc/drum. Even severe enough lock-ups can destroy on or the other - or both. No matter which is at fault don't replace one or the other, but everything together again --- and bed properly.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top