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06 CTS Sport/Luxury package
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Discussion Starter #1
I've been having this problem for a year or two. Wasn't really concerned about it because I rarely got above 40mph. Now that I have a new job that is 55 miles one way, I'd like to have this issue fixed.

So far what has been done.

  • Balancing the wheels more than just a few times. Different rims, 18 and 17" have been used. For the 17", different tires have been used (all season and winter/snow).
  • Outer tie rod on passenger side has been replaced. As it was super lose.
  • Four wheel alignment has been done.
  • Replaced the front and rear driveshaft couplers.
Anything else that could be the issue of my car literally feeling like it's shaking apart at 40 plus mph? How sensitive is the front and rear driveshaft couplers? In other words how should they've been installed to make sure a balanced fit was done? A OEM replacement was done with them.

KOT
 

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2005 CTS 3.6, 2016 Malibu 1.5T
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Tought I would never see KOT asking for advice, usually you are the one that shines light in our problems.
Does your steering wheel shake? or just the car itself seems out of balance entirely?
you say the outer tie rod was very loose, you must have something else loose as-well.
what you stated at the end could be a issue aswell, maybe the drive line shaking? at higher speeds?
hopefully someone gives some worthy advice good luck KOT.
 

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2003 CTS 1SC Luxury Sport
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With the new couplers did you replace the center support bearing and were bolts torqued or just tightened? I've also seen a few balance issues with the driveshafts on these cars that will vibrate like yours. I'd personally look into driveshaft balance first.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I appreciate the suggestion Argent1, but I know it's not the engine. Didn't think about posting this bit of information until you brought it up. I know it's has nothing to do with the engine because I can slap it in Neutral and shut down the engine at speeds above 45 and the car still shakes. But the fuel filter has not been replaced since I've bought the car in 08 and at 35K. Now has 135K.

To answer your question jran0823, this is where I am a little upset about. To mount the new couplers on, an 18mm wrench and impact was used. Tighten one nut/bolt, then turned the shaft to do the next and so on. No order was done like you would do on a wheel in a star formation. I know it's a 6 nut/bolt structure. 3 for the transmission, and 3 for the drive shaft. Same for the rear, but with the diff. So basically the transmission nut/bolt was done, turn then the driveshaft nut/bolt, turn transmission nut/bolt and so on. For the front coupler, all the bolts were installed the same direction. As for the rear, one set of three were installed front to back and the other back to front. Just like it was before on the old coupler. So at least that was constant.

Oh, before I forget again. All four wheels had the pads and rotors replaced last month. There was no change in shakyness. So it's not the brakes. Along with passenger side caliper as it was sticky, which happened to be the same side for the tie rod end.

As for the "perhaps another part" of the tie rod ends. Well the shop is confident enough that no other piece is loose. As I was on one wheel, my friend on the other wheel. He would push his side to the left and I'll feel mine move right away. Same goes with turning it right. So it's not like an inner tie rod is bad either. There was no jerkiness when trying to turn the wheels per say. Same goes with a north/south hand position of the wheel, they were solid as a rock.

KOT
 

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I would have the driveshaft pulled and brought in for balancing. Find a shop that has a good rep. If they're local you'd have it back in a day.
 

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06 CTS Sport/Luxury package
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Discussion Starter #7
What could make the driveshaft lose is balance? Are there weights, like on a wheel, that could fall off or something?

Just trying to understand it.

KOT
 

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2003 CTS Luxury/Sport package
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I'm currently having the same issue as you kot. I've recently had the dealership put on a new driveshaft while under warranty and it seems like its started after that repair. I'm going to do some inspections today and see if i can find any other issues or concerns that go along with this problem. Have you checked your ball joints?
 

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2003 CTS 1SC Luxury Sport
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Yes there is weights welded on to it when it is new. But rust build up inside and out can cause to lose balance. It's not abnormal for a driveshaft to lose balance over time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Where would I even start looking for a shop that can balance it?

I doubt my friends shop can. Unless they just remove it and send it off some where else.

KOT
 

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Talk to a shop you can trust and ask them who they use. I'm fortunate that we have Machine Services here in Green Bay. They do work for facilities around the world and do great work. If you want to ship it if be more than happy to get their contact info for you.
 

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Okay. If I read correctly you said they were tightened with an impact?! Nono!! 67ft pounds is what they get. And cannot be tightened bolt by bolt. You have to get each one snug then go through and torq them little by little like ten foot pounds at a time. then skip one at a time like a tire and torq the next one another ten pounds until you reach 67. For both front and rear couplers, The bolts should alternate. Bolt in front, nut in rear. The next would be nut in front, bolt in rear. Ext ext. I would try this first. I don't think the nut and bolt orientation would mess things up much but using and impact set at what on average 110ft pounds definitely would.
 

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2006 3.6L CTS, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FE2
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Where would I even start looking for a shop that can balance it?

I doubt my friends shop can. Unless they just remove it and send it off some where else.

KOT
Remove the driveshaft, inspect center carrier bearing, then bolt up driveshaft using procedure suggested by ztollon. If you're still having issues at that point, find a shop that specializes in driveshafts. We have a shop here in texas called Driveshaft Kings. They typically only do driveshaft work and do everything from huge trucks with insane amounts of torque to normal cars to race cars.

A shop like that would be your best bet.

Over-tightened bolts however could easily be your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay. If I read correctly you said they were tightened with an impact?! Nono!! 67ft pounds is what they get. And cannot be tightened bolt by bolt. You have to get each one snug then go through and torq them little by little like ten foot pounds at a time. then skip one at a time like a tire and torq the next one another ten pounds until you reach 67. For both front and rear couplers, The bolts should alternate. Bolt in front, nut in rear. The next would be nut in front, bolt in rear. Ext ext. I would try this first. I don't think the nut and bolt orientation would mess things up much but using and impact set at what on average 110ft pounds definitely would.
When I'll have the time and a stable driveway. I will attack this. However, I'll be leaving the bolts in the orientation that they are in now. Because that's the way they were before. Unless I can talk it into my friend to have it done properly. But I feel like I am a burndon on his shop as I've haven't paid for things in a long time. Just done electrical work here and there.

KOT
 

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2003 CTS Luxury/Sport package
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I've found my issue is the lower control arm bushings are shot allowing the control arm to move side to side. Good thing revshift has the bushings so i dont need to buy a new control arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
arogers260 said:
I've found my issue is the lower control arm bushings are shot allowing the control arm to move side to side. Good thing revshift has the bushings so i dont need to buy a new control arm.
Please keep me posted on your repairs.

By the way, how did you determine your bushings were shot? Which video guide did you go by?

KOT
 

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I didnt use either video because visually the ball joints were good. I had the front end up on jack stands and had lots of play in the tires side to side and could actually see the lower control arm moving and there was a quite a gap between the mount and bushing. I may need new inner tie rods too. I'm gonna change out those bushings and replace pads rotors all around and same with shocks/struts and both lower and upper ball joints since everything will be torn apart and im at 150k. So i may as well do it regardless if they're still good or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It turns out that my Carrying Bearing is completely shot. It's being replaced tomorrow, so I'll let you know once my friend brings it back to me.

Gotta love a long time friend who a service manager at a shop and lives on the same road as I. lol :) I have his 04 Ford Taurus right now.

KOT
 
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