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I have about 24k miles on OEM slotted rotors and hawk pads.

BUT, they are already 'grinding' and I'm getting wear patterns on the rotors. I simply cannot believe that the pads are already worn out as I got 55k miles on the original pads and rotors. In fact at about 20k miles things were not right. I installed them myself so I son't know if I made some error.

Is it possible to lathe these rotors and get new pads only?
 

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2005 CTS-V SC
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I turned mine at 30K and then warped them the next day driving through the mountains. I’m still waiting on UUC to release the two piece slotted rotors.
 

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2005 CTS-V, Black
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I turned mine at 30K and then warped them the next day driving through the mountains. I’m still waiting on UUC to release the two piece slotted rotors.

I feel like everyone is waiting on these. Wish they would release them already so we could get some feedback on them.
 

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05 Cadillac CTS V infrared
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You can turn any rotor that is still within spec's.....contrary to popular belief rotors do not "warp" no matter how hard you are on them. Rotors have DTV (disc thickness variation) caused by lateral runout, if you don't get rid of lateral runout before you machine any rotor the "pulsation" or "warped" feeling will return in quick order. The only way to do this is to machine the rotors with an "on the car lathe", most OEM's are required to use them for warranty work and allot of bigger shops have these machines as well. It gets rid of the lateral runout before the machining process begins so you are not cutting the runout back into the newly machined surface......shops that use bench lathes to cut your rotors are cutting between 5 to 10 thousandths of runout into the newly cut rotor.......most of the time you wont notice this until 3 to 4 months after a brake job, then the "warped" feeling will return. Just my 4 cents worth :)(
 

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04 CTS-V with a little hp persuasion device
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hmm...

That is interesting.
 

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2005 CTS-V SC
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Brembo has a set of two peice rotors, and i have to say, plug and play...
I didn't see anything on their website. Do you have a link?
 

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2018 CT6E, old: 2014 XTS Vsport, 2005 CTS-V, 2004 CTS-V.
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Sometimes it's not even DTV. More like rust variations long the rotor surface as the pad will hold moisture where areas of the rotor with no pad will dry and vice versa. Just need some cleaning of the rotor surface with some good heating cycles.

Norm
 

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You can turn any rotor that is still within spec's.....contrary to popular belief rotors do not "warp" no matter how hard you are on them. Rotors have DTV (disc thickness variation) caused by lateral runout, if you don't get rid of lateral runout before you machine any rotor the "pulsation" or "warped" feeling will return in quick order. The only way to do this is to machine the rotors with an "on the car lathe", most OEM's are required to use them for warranty work and allot of bigger shops have these machines as well. It gets rid of the lateral runout before the machining process begins so you are not cutting the runout back into the newly machined surface......shops that use bench lathes to cut your rotors are cutting between 5 to 10 thousandths of runout into the newly cut rotor.......most of the time you wont notice this until 3 to 4 months after a brake job, then the "warped" feeling will return. Just my 4 cents worth :)(
A guess when a lot of people think of warp they picture a potato chip, which gives a bad visual of what’s actually happening. Warp is typically the term used to describe the run-out or the non-parallel condition between the two surfaces on the rotor.

I had mine turned on a Saturday, installed the new Hawk pads on Sunday and headed out to Potrero on Monday after work. After about an hour and a half in the mountains, the pulsating in the breaks was so bad and I had to slow down. So maybe the machine shop didn’t do a very good job on my rotors or didn’t have the proper equipment.

I also have Eagle F1’s on the car (It came with those tires) and these tires have a nasty vibration at 65 MPH. So the pulsating of brakes and vibration in the wheel coming down past 65 mph is un-nerving.

I actually called Luke about it and he told me GM recommends you not turn these rotors. Which I believe this is consistent with what BMW tells their customers with these heavy performance cars.
 

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I think they just want you to buy new ones. Even when they are new the tolerance is slim. With only 43k miles I could not turn the rotors because they were way under spec.
 

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'05 CTS-V, Powered by Chevrolet
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I have about 24k miles on OEM slotted rotors and hawk pads.

BUT, they are already 'grinding' and I'm getting wear patterns on the rotors. I simply cannot believe that the pads are already worn out as I got 55k miles on the original pads and rotors. In fact at about 20k miles things were not right. I installed them myself so I son't know if I made some error.

Is it possible to lathe these rotors and get new pads only?
I'm not surprised. Slots and holes will greatly reduce the life of any pad. Those surfaces shave the pads during braking.

Some here have touched on a topic of warped rotors and it may be related to the experience I am having with my rotors. click:My rotor diagnosis (~long)
 

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2018 CT6E, old: 2014 XTS Vsport, 2005 CTS-V, 2004 CTS-V.
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You didn't bed the pad to the rotor?! Tsk, tsk!

Now you have uneven pad material distributed over the rotor. What you feel are high grip areas where there is pad material and areas where there hardly any.

Might as well get them turned again or do progress stops to zero starting 10-20 mph to get heat evenly.


Norm

Norm

I had mine turned on a Saturday, installed the new Hawk pads on Sunday and headed out to Potrero on Monday after work. After about an hour and a half in the mountains, the pulsating in the breaks was so bad and I had to slow down. So maybe the machine shop didn’t do a very good job on my rotors or didn’t have the proper equipment.

I also have Eagle F1’s on the car (It came with those tires) and these tires have a nasty vibration at 65 MPH. So the pulsating of brakes and vibration in the wheel coming down past 65 mph is un-nerving.

I actually called Luke about it and he told me GM recommends you not turn these rotors. Which I believe this is consistent with what BMW tells their customers with these heavy performance cars.
 

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2005 CTS-V SC
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410 Posts
I'm not surprised. Slots and holes will greatly reduce the life of any pad. Those surfaces shave the pads during braking.

Some here have touched on a topic of warped rotors and it may be related to the experience I am having with my rotors. click:My rotor diagnosis (~long)
Sounds very similar to the problem I’m having. It never rains here, so I’ll put the car up on stands and try cleaning the rotors with some brake cleaner.
 

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2005 CTS-V SC
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410 Posts
You didn't bed the pad to the rotor?! Tsk, tsk!

Now you have uneven pad material distributed over the rotor. What you feel are high grip areas where there is pad material and areas where there hardly any.

Might as well get them turned again or do progress stops to zero starting 10-20 mph to get heat evenly.


Norm

Norm
Thanks,

I'll give that a try.
 

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410 Posts
I tried cleaning the rotors and bedding in the brakes with the old rotors. It reduced the chatter but it was still quite annoying. I decided to replace them with the stock rotors since my first autocross is this weekend and I couldn’t wait any longer for the slotted ones. I also decided to go with the ATE Super Blue instead of the Motul since I’m only planning on Autocrossing the car and not tracking it. (Going to get the kart ready for the winter)

What a difference it makes when you cycle through new brake fluid. I used the Motive pressure bleeder along with my Phoenix Systems kit to pressure bleed the brakes. The Phoenix kit has one way check valves and some other tools that make the process a little easier.

New rotors, brakes and Hotchkis sways. Car feels really good. The term rails and a leash come to mind.
 
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