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2005 Escalade Base 6.0L
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I have 2005 Escalade Base with 135k miles & have a medium size leak I have been told is coming from the rear main seal. Do not have the funds to have trans pulled. Is it dangerous to try the ATP AT-205 reseal? Any one have any success with this product on their Escalade oil leak or any success with another product? Thank you!
 

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2010 Platinum Escalade, 1996 Fleetwood Brougham
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6,511 Posts
Mechanic in a can is nothing more than great marketing.

If you could pour something into your engine that would seal up a leak, what's stopping that product from blocking a small oil passage? How does it know the difference?

Makes old dried worn out gaskets new, how?
 

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2006 Escalade AWD w/DiabloSport tuner,Jet Performance throttle body/MAF,Airaid MIT
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1,751 Posts
I have 2005 Escalade Base with 135k miles & have a medium size leak I have been told is coming from the rear main seal. Do not have the funds to have trans pulled. Is it dangerous to try the ATP AT-205 reseal? Any one have any success with this product on their Escalade oil leak or any success with another product? Thank you!
Just my personal opinion. Resealing products may work to slow a larger leak or even completely plug a small leak, however the repair would likely be a temporary fix at best. I personally would not use those products because you will be adding some type of sealing goop into the engine. I do not know if the sealing goop will affect other engine parts or oil passages in a negative way.

The best method would be to just replace the damaged seal, however if you can not perform the job correctly then the seal treatment may buy you some time until you can. Hell, the goop may actually plug up some other leaking seals you may have.
 

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Depends on the leak. Note... An additive with a petroleum distillate will soften the seal and might work. It will however destroy the seal over time.
If the seal has an outside hole, breakage or gap the seal will need to be replaced.
A high mileage oil may work as well as it has additives to keep seals working.
Another is try a spray from the outside to stop the leak.
 

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Modified 06 XLR-V
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180 Posts
FWIW - I have a '05 Yukon Denali with the 6.0 and I had a leak in the rear main seal and around the oil pan - at least thats what I could gather in all that oily mess...

i've had good luck with AT-205 with some other engines so I put recommended dosage in the engine oil and it worked completely... my denali is low miles - 80k and I'm the only owner... no more leaks. I've had it in there for about a year so its due for an oil change - my understanding is that once you start using AT-205, you have to keep using it every oil change as if you stop, the leak will come back...

Food for thought and YMMV - good luck
 

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'05 ESV Platinum, 330,000 miles, original motor, transmission etc. Still looking fine, really fine!
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1,294 Posts
Can't comment on the magic elixir, never tried any of it never will.

My comment is more on the DIY repair. Just a few months ago I replaced my rear main in our 2005 ESV 6.0. Instead of dropping the transmission, I opt'd to pull engine. Alot easier standing on my feet than lying on my back! I also replaced a couple broken exhaust manifold bolts at same time. From start to finish about 10 hours including a few beer breaks.
 

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'05 Escallade ESV Plat., '16 Z51 Corvette, 12 Lexus IS350C
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I had a similar issue with my '01 Vette.
It wasn't the actual seal, but the rear timing cover.
While I was there I replaced the "Barbell". That can cause excessive pressure to rear timing cover if I remember correctly. (It's been a few years since I did the work).
During my investigation, I read sometimes the oil pressure sensor leaking could make it look like the rear main. I didn't have that issue and didn't see how that was possible. I suppose if it a minor leak, it could seep down there.

When you go to replace the rear main, replace the entire rear timing cover. The rear main seal is installed in the factory and you don't have to worry about installing it correctly. Plus, it come with all new bolts when buying from GMpartsdirect or one of the other factory parts discounters.

I'm not a fan of the fixes in a can, but it's worth a try if you have no other choice. I used some in a leaking transmission and it worked, but took about 3 months to do so.
 

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2010 Platinum Escalade, 1996 Fleetwood Brougham
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The one you listed has a fair amount of positive reviews. If I were to roll dice, I'd base my decision on that.

It may very well work, I don't want to give the impression it won't. Fix a flat sometimes works, but have you seen what's left behind after using it?

Not that this product will leave a mess behind, but every action has a consequence.
 

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2004 ESV
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946 Posts
I used a bottle in my last oil change, as I had some oil around the oil cooler (replaced with block off plate). Been going for a couple thousand miles with no issues. You are just buying time if funds are tight now, or you are trying to sell it.

I would have no problems recommending it.
 

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Depends on the leak. Note... An additive with a petroleum distillate will soften the seal and might work. It will however destroy the seal over time.
If the seal has an outside hole, breakage or gap the seal will need to be replaced.
A high mileage oil may work as well as it has additives to keep seals working.
Another is try a spray from the outside to stop the leak.
Whats this spray, how does it work, never heard of this product before?
 
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