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cam position sensor/harness

23494 Views 16 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  darkman
During the install of my pacesetter headers I believe I may have damaged the cam posisition sensor harness/wires when attempting to stretch the harness to get the O2 sensors connected without extensions.

I was wondering if anyone had a how-to guide for getting to the sensor/harness or if anyone had a pic of the connector/harness. I know it is located on the back of the manifold (maggie in my case) and on the passenger side. I can't locate it and am trying to diagnose the problem prior to going through the trouble of removing/re-installing the maggie.

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Thanks for the pic. Looks like there will be no way to get back there and see it/diagnose the problem without pulling the maggie. Thanks.
I can reach behind mine and at least make sure its plugged in. I don't know about diagnosing any torn wires etc but I would try that first. G/L
The only connector I can get a glimpse of back there is in the same location as the pic but appears to have greyish white, pink, and an orange or redish color wire. The wiring to this connector is fairly taught but does not appear to be disconnected or in bad condition (pulled/torn wiring).

My only problem with taking the time to remove the maggie is I dont have any knowledge/tools.odb readers for testing the harness and connectors. If I go through the trouble of removing everything and it appears to be in good shape and there is nothing to replace, I'll end up having to button her back up just to take it to someone to do the same thing.
The code was already read. I know it is either the sensor, connector, wires to or from the sensor, or the ecu is not detecting the signal. This hard start problem began immediately after doing the header install without using o2 extensions and required a little bit of tugging on the wiring harness. Another forum member had similar symptoms after the pacesetter install and discovered later that he had pulled the wires from the camshaft position sensor connector. He got a piggyback extension for the connector and all was fixed.

This is why I suspected the same issue, but my wiring although tought seems to be in good shape.
Well...I still need help.

Originally I was getting no power to the connector or sensor. I have since replaced the connector with a piggyback and now also the sensor itself.

I could really use some help determining what the voltage should read on the camshaft position sensor signal wire (I believe it is the brown/wht wire). I am getting approximately 10v which will switch back and forth from 0v-10v when tested. I have been told that this should oscillate only between 0-5v when testing.

FYI- my orange wire is getting full battery voltage and the pink/blk is grounded.

Could anyone please verify on theres or anyone know off hand?

My car is currently for sale with multiple interested buyers so I need this fixed ASAP!!! thanks.
See attached. Included is information on DTC P0341 which includes a description of the operation of that circuit as well as other causes of malfunctions.
Thanks for your help. I'm using a similar troubleshooting worksheet which has a few more steps involved. Mine asks if the signal input (brown/wht) wire is displaying "near the specified voltage."

I'm trying to find out what that "specified voltage" is..... A cadillac technician has told me it should switch back and forth from 0 to 5 volts. Both my old sensor and new replacement are switching from 0 to 10 volts when tested by waving a wrench over the sensor while it is removed from the motor but connected to the harness and ignition is in the on (but not running) position.

Thanks again.
Anybody else know what voltage the signal (brn/wht) wire should read??
Thanks ^^^^ Didn't see this till just now but here is the finale....

I haven't recieved much help on this topic but thought I would post the results regardless for future reference. Before bolting everything back together I went ahead and replaced the camshaft position sensor ($45) in addition to the CPS piggyback harness ($9) just for extra precaution. The new sensor tested the same as the original above so I'm pretty sure it wasn't the problem but for $45 I figured better safe than sorry. If the quote from the caddy service dept for 5v on the reference was correct, my plan was just to take the car into the shop and have them finish the job.

Long story short, all is well. With 10v at the signal reference all my codes went away, check engine light gone, and easy first kick starts everytime. Put 400 miles on it so far and no problems since. Just FYI-maybe caddy just didn't know what they were talking about.
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