Likely there are other threads on the brake pad change but I thought I would do an updated one. This is the easiest pad change you will ever do particularly if you do it with less than 2000 miles on the car. Your most popular choices are the Carbotech 1521s and the PowerStop Z26. The 1521s are in the mid $400's and are US made and the Powerstops come from our friends in China and are about $130 the set of 4. I put the 1405 (front part number) and the 1718s from Carbotech on the Z06, but bought the Z26s for the ATS-V. Yes, you have the same brake calipers and pads as the mighty Z06.
First, jack up the car and remove the wheel. If you can find a good spot for the jack stand use them. I was uncertain about the back of the engine cradle so simply worked with my floor jack. Given that you are not under the car, it is risky for the wheel but less so for parts of your body. I used the 20$ Ifif pinch weld tool from Amazon.
After the wheel is off you can get at the back of the caliper. Note there are two silver pins pressed in from the back of the caliper and one cross bolt holder that has a small 13 mm bolt in it from the back of the caliper.
You will want to use a 13 mm socket and a 3 inch extension on a 3/8ths ratchet that is less than 6 inches long so you can use it without hitting the inner fender liner. Here are some of the tools I used. Note the punch set that has flat ends of varying sizes. Very helpful.
Reach around back and loosen the 13 mm bolt. At that size it has about 22 ft lbs of torque so no problem getting it out. Lefty loosey, right?
Here is the bolt holder coming out. It is just an easy pull out at least with a relatively new car.
Use the appropriate size punch to punch the pins out the back of the caliper. The pins have a small compression spot on the back side so you don't have to get them too far out to make them hand loose and easy to remove.
I found a 2 lb sledge a nice size to use to get out (and in) the pins.
Now that the pins and the bolt holder are out the spring will simply pop out.
Now you can coax the pads out. I used one of the punches and the sledge to coax them out from the inside of the caliper, but if you use a caliper spreader they should just fall out after you spread the caliper. I did not as my experience with both the Carbotechs and now the PowerStops is that they are thinner when new than the OEM pads so if you change them before 2500 miles you don't need to spread the caliper or push the pistons back in. That large flat screwdriver in my tools picture can also coax the pads out by levering on the pad ears.
Assembly is simply the opposite. Put in the pads. Install the lower pin by putting it in from the back and putting it in with gentle love taps of the sledge. It will be obvious when it is in as you will see the point and about a 1/16 of the round portion on your side of the caliper. Put in the spring. New hopefully but I found that my low mileage old spring actually fit better so I reused it. Hold it in by putting in the top pin. Take a bit of care here as the brake line is very close to where you are using that 2 lb sledge. Once the second pin is in you will have no problem putting the bolt holder in and under the spring. Its two flat sides line up with the sides of its front location. Reach around and put in the 13 mm bolt. Righty Tighty? I did find I was only able to get about 20 ft lb with my 3 inch 3/8ths ratchet so used the 6 inch 3/8ths breaker bar to get those few extra ftlbs I needed. Put back on the wheels and torque the wheel nuts to 100 ft lbs.
Now if you want to burnish do so. Carbotech recommends no burnishing. I have no idea on the PowerStops so I will burnish them. You should clean your rotors with brake clean spray however. That takes off the old pad material and does lessen the need for burnishing.
Have fun. I will get to the rears tomorrow morning but it is about the same with the exception of the needed bolt holder and 13 mm bolt. That is not needed to hold the caliper together on the smaller rear caliper.