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04 CTS-V with a little hp persuasion device
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oh well. win some loose some. Thats why I use digital lol
 

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I think there's been enough hair spitting on the numbers. ;) Oh umm splitting I mean

Good job on the homemade mount! Re-Looks...yes this is the the subject...lol.

Polyurethane, I think, at least regarding bushings is about the same quality.

The key to making a mount is and this assumes you dont want it solid, is to build in a safety feature that even if the soft material fails the mount would not be able to move excessively allowing the engine to move out of drivetrain alignment. Thus eliminating any issues other than some inconvenience if it fails.
 

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04 CTS-V with a little hp persuasion device
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eeeasyyyy
 

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05 CTS-V raven black
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you should call them QuadM's and sale them....Mighty Mouse Motor Mounts
 
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Discussion Starter #48
thanks for the support guys.

doctornick, i think anything rubber would chew up over time as the stock mount did.

skullv, my work email is [email protected] for the cradle crushers or the nivomat relocators

heavymetals etc. yes the pfadt ones are awesome and very expensive and way too short, same w/ gto mounts.
actually measuring my factory mount out of the car was 3-5/8" tall, so that is the height i made this one to. the pfadt ones would need longer studs pressed into them to accomodate the what 1/2" spacer per side needed and keep 1.25" of stud hanging through. i also think because of how small the pfadt ones are that there wont be much give in them at all.

normv i bought a can of urethane to give a go at making my own such as the look of the link you posted just in case. ($40)

ctsv154 you are right, something like this is a heck of a head start http://www.suicidedoors.com/files/i...stable4-LinkBarEndw34StudandZerkFitting_0.jpg

here's my revision A model; still looking for a nice beefy catalog bushing to perscribe to match the cut pattern files i will turn loose:



i am also considering tossing the giant aluminum upper and lower mounts to get more room in there, it looks soo unnecessary. also considering using an f body style motor mount with an adapter bracket
 

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05 CTS-V raven black
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hummm....if you designed new brackets to accomodate factory F-body mounts then someone could run whatever mount they choose...factory or ones like Pfadt..

think that is a great idea, that way you could forever have replacements that are easy to find...
 

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heavymetals etc. yes the pfadt ones are awesome and very expensive and way too short, same w/ gto mounts.
actually measuring my factory mount out of the car was 3-5/8" tall, so that is the height i made this one to. the pfadt ones would need longer studs pressed into them to accomodate the what 1/2" spacer per side needed and keep 1.25" of stud hanging through. i also think because of how small the pfadt ones are that there wont be much give in them at all.
UUC initially made their prototype motor mounts the same exact height as the stock mounts, as well. However, when they went to install it, they found that it was too tall, since the polyurethane they used was of a harder material than the stock rubber ones, which compressed some under the weight.

I would think that this would have been more of a problem for you, since yours are basically all metal, save for the bushing between the two sleeves. No problems in that regard?
 

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05 CTS-V raven black
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this thread cannot die until someone makes a second option motor mount for the V...I like the idea of making new brackets and just using the Fbody mounts..

anyone anyone??
 
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Discussion Starter #52
i dunno man, my engine is roughly at the same point, i did take some 'squish' of the factory mount.

re: the uuc thread, i decided to put my can of urethane into action as well to see how it does. i will make these stars available for anyone who wants to pour their own. should cost the owner a can of soda (mold) 8 of these stars and 4 bolts along with 50-70 bux in urethane to make a pair of mounts



i guess i will persue these options in parallel.
 

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Silver '05 V
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i am also considering tossing the giant aluminum upper and lower mounts to get more room in there, it looks soo unnecessary. also considering using an f body style motor mount with an adapter bracket
Some of you guys with skills could do this. Couple pictures for reference. 1st picture is a shot of a UUC mount bolted to the upper and lower aluminum mounts. (courtesy of lollygagger)



This is a picture of a mount used in a mustang (flame on). Once the old upper/lower mounts are out and these new replacements are in, then it would only require only 1 bolt per side to either replace the bushing (shouldn't need to do that often) or if you like, to lift/remove your engine. In this picture I find it easier to look like our upper/lower mounts if you look at it upside down. I am at work and can't photoshop it upside down. That way on our mounts the side that requires 2 bolts is on the bottom and the other 2 sides of the link would be on top going to the four bolts (does that make sense?). Just look at it, you'll see it.



Someone feel free to correct me if this is not possible at all and I am talkin crazy. :thumbsup:
 
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Discussion Starter #54
ok so finally drove the damn car now that i got wheels back on it

the urethane mount works great!

4 bolts, 8 washers a section of 2.5" exhaust tubing, and a can of shore 80A urethane =
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/attac...heels-back-p-c-friggen-finally-0425092324.jpg

hopefully that link works

it takes about 24 hours for the urethane to set up, about as much time as it will take to get the stockers out! have fun with this one guys the shit is messy haha!
 

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This may be a stupid question, but how do you get the bolt perfectly centered on each side? I need new MM and I am pretty sure the dealer isnt going to want to pull my headers under warranty to replace them, so I am going to need to do my own!
 
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Discussion Starter #56
not a stupid question at all!

technically speaking I 'eyeballed' it :eye::eye:
 
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Discussion Starter #58
nope, i temp. mounted it to a piece of spare metal and sat that on top of the piece of exhaust pipe. same for the bottom screw though you have to seal the edge of the bottom so the urethane does not leak out

i'd show you but i'm having picture hosting difficulites these days
 

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When you get a chance please post the pics. I would love to get this done this summer since I am only taking one class!
 
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