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2009 CTSV, silver, manual
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Discussion Starter #1
I am preparing to pickup my V from Scott this Thursday. I have about a 400 mile drive home. I have read a lot of you here have followed a break-in procedure, but what is that exactly? Does the owners manual have a break-in procedure? Based on other vehicles I have owned, is it something like avoid constant speeds, full throttle acceleration, etc?

For other high-po vehicles I have owned there was an active debate about whether that typical break-in procedure was actually the best advice. Anybody here subscribe to the idea of break-in like you intend to use it? I have heard several engine builders and racers say to break-in an engine WITH full throttle and high RPM usage. Seats the valves and rings better??
 

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There are tons of different opinions on this subject for sure. I think a proper break in should include hitting most of the rpm range, but not at full throttle. Definitely take caution in breaking in the transmission and rear end also. Avoid full throttle gear changes and taking off from a stop.

The brakes typically have to be broken in too, to ensure the best performance in demanding conditions.
 

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11v,2 09 v's,2 05 v's,5 GTM supercars,viper,volt,2012 karma
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Most performance shops with an engine dyno, just dump on the motor on the dyno, let it run for a little bit to get the oil warm and let it run for a little while, and then they just beat the snot out of it to build the calibration or adjust the carbs/distributor springs. Everyone has a different opinion. Every motor is also different and some just break or wear out differently than others. Oil, contamination, fuel used, driving habits, climate, all play a part in everything..
 

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CadillacOwners First 09 CTS-V Owner
09 CTS-V, 08 Escalade
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Definitely take caution in breaking in the transmission and rear end also.
Not also....only.

The engine is already broken in, the drivetrain is what needs to be seated. Ignore this and you will hear 'chatter' miles later.
 

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2012 CTS-V
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Not also....only.

The engine is already broken in, the drivetrain is what needs to be seated. Ignore this and you will hear 'chatter' miles later.
I agree. With roller valve trains, and various technology improvements in the engine, the main things that needs to be broken in are the brakes to minimize risk of warped rotors, and the transmission/rear to allow the parts to wear into each other.

I followed the manual:
* Easy on the brakes for the first 200 miles

And for the first 500 miles:
* Avoided speeds over 70 MPH for any sustained length
* Took it easy on the throttle
* No cruise control or constant speeds for long periods
 

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2009 CTS-V
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26 Posts
I have always said drive it like you are gonna drive it on a daily basis, just make sure you keep up with routine maintnance.

just my .02
 

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07 ESV
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Many suggest heat cycles - drive for a while varying rpms - take a break and let the engine cool off. Then repeat.
 

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The engine is already broken in, the drivetrain is what needs to be seated. Ignore this and you will hear 'chatter' miles later.
To further what Mike said, the entire drive train isn't really the concern, the rear end is, specifically. The transmission can certainly use a gentle work-out, but the differential is the main concern here. Improper break-in will lead to a very whiny diff later in life. You'll be cruising along at 55-60 and the rear end of the car will be singing a (very annoying) song for you.

And once it starts that whining, there won't be much you can do to fix it except: replace the diff.

jas
 

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2013 6MT V wagon, OBM, 2009 silver V sedan (traded)
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I followed the manual to the letter, as I always do and as listed in 62Jeff's post above. I figure the engineers at GM know what they are doing, for the most part, even if their bosses don't.
 

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2009 CTS-V , 2010 SRX 2.8T
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I have a 6spd V so break-in was mandatory. Manual drivers need to break-in the clutches properly. I drove side streets for the whole week and never used the highway in order to avoid long single speed travel. I never hit heavy throttle in 1st. I would occasionally slowly increase my throttle to about 4k in 2+ gears and let it wind down. At 700 miles i had all the fluids dumped. The trans, diff, and oil. I heard from another member that his diff oil was black at 1200miles. I can def see that since I was hearing some clutch pack noise on occasion from the rear diff during break in. After the fluid change its as quiet as can be. Than i changed the oil again at about 1200 miles. Right now I have about 2700 miles and have been driving aggressively since the 1200 mile period. Probally around 3500 I will have all fluids dumped again. Than from that point on I'll change fluids on a more scheduled basis. I also had a filtermag put onto the oil filter at 4 miles at the dealership. There is no magnetic drain plug on the V so i really stress the importantance of either using a filtermag, getting a mag plug, or changing the oil every 2k miles. I believe that this routine has given me a very strong motor and have pulled fully stock 501tq 462hp on a mustang dyno. Mustang dyno's usually give #'s 10% lower than dynojets. To verify this i have a scheduled dyno again on a dynojet on the 28th check my stock #'s.
 

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2009 CTSV, silver, manual
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Discussion Starter #11
Most performance shops with an engine dyno, just dump on the motor on the dyno, let it run for a little bit to get the oil warm and let it run for a little while, and then they just beat the snot out of it to build the calibration or adjust the carbs/distributor springs. Everyone has a different opinion. Every motor is also different and some just break or wear out differently than others. Oil, contamination, fuel used, driving habits, climate, all play a part in everything..
W4M,
I have heard this, and I have heard builders say they get good performance out of engines without babying the thing. It makes sense to ease in the tranny, diff, brakes, etc but I am not so sure I buy it that the engine NEEDS to be babied.
Hey I will be driving right through your neck of the woods on my way home Thurs PM, can I stop by and have you put on a tune and exhaust?? Ha, that would be great!
 

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2009 CTS-V (MG9)
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I have a 6spd V so break-in was mandatory. Manual drivers need to break-in the clutches properly. I drove side streets for the whole week and never used the highway in order to avoid long single speed travel. I never hit heavy throttle in 1st. I would occasionally slowly increase my throttle to about 4k in 2+ gears and let it wind down. At 700 miles i had all the fluids dumped. The trans, diff, and oil. I heard from another member that his diff oil was black at 1200miles. I can def see that since I was hearing some clutch pack noise on occasion from the rear diff during break in. After the fluid change its as quiet as can be. Than i changed the oil again at about 1200 miles. Right now I have about 2700 miles and have been driving aggressively since the 1200 mile period. Probally around 3500 I will have all fluids dumped again. Than from that point on I'll change fluids on a more scheduled basis. I also had a filtermag put onto the oil filter at 4 miles at the dealership. There is no magnetic drain plug on the V so i really stress the importantance of either using a filtermag, getting a mag plug, or changing the oil every 2k miles. I believe that this routine has given me a very strong motor and have pulled fully stock 501tq 462hp on a mustang dyno. Mustang dyno's usually give #'s 10% lower than dynojets. To verify this i have a scheduled dyno again on a dynojet on the 28th check my stock #'s.
I have been following this as well except I changed the oil at ~ 360 Km or 225 Miles. I'm using a mag on the filter as well. I noticed the filter size in this car seems a little small and I'll look at putting a longer one at the next oil change. Now having said that, these engines are much more precisley machined and built than years ago and could very well stand some spirited sprints up and down the RPM range right from the get go. Rings and Valves are as seated as they are going to be. No constant speeds/rpm for periods of time is the key.
Diff should still be broken in per what others have said... nobody likes a whinny diff!
 

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It just started to rain here so he and his car is going to get wet..


That sucks. I had it all washed and waxed good for him too.
 
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