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2009 CTSv & 2006 STSv + 1991 SHO
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Discussion Starter #1
I remember reading about some guys changing oil early, I did a search for oil and oil change and nothing came up so I am posting this question... please merge with appropriate thread if there is another one.


I remember reading that alot of you are changing oil early and its coming out pretty dark. I have almost 1000 miles on mine now and I want to change the oil.
This might be a silly questions but, I was wondering if the factory oil is some type of special break in oil or has some needed break in lubricant in it? Or can I go ahead and chnage it?
 

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New cars no longer require any kind of special "break in" oil. They come from the factory with the oil that is recommended for all future oil changes in them. As far as early oil changes are concerned, it is a matter of choice. People that run their vehicle hard, tend to change the oil sooner. Some years back, Consumer Reports ran a test on identical taxicab fleets. They started the test with new engines in both fleets and all measurements taken and recorded. They changed the oil at 3000 miles in one group and ran the second group to 6000 miles without changing the oil. Both sets of engines were then dismantled and the measurements taken again. They could find no significant difference between the two groups. Obviously, if you do not run the vehicle at all, it will probably last a very long time. There is no thread, that I know of, on this subject.
 

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2009 CTS-V, Manual, Black
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I have the thread you're talking about bookmarked for when I break down and get my V, but spam filters won't let me link web addresses due to newbie status.

~Topper
 

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09 CTS-V
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365 Posts
I remember reading about some guys changing oil early, I did a search for oil and oil change and nothing came up so I am posting this question... please merge with appropriate thread if there is another one.


I remember reading that alot of you are changing oil early and its coming out pretty dark. I have almost 1000 miles on mine now and I want to change the oil.
This might be a silly questions but, I was wondering if the factory oil is some type of special break in oil or has some needed break in lubricant in it? Or can I go ahead and chnage it?
Here are some of the links:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v-series-forum-2009/159227-just-got-amsoil-oil-filter-when.html

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v-series-forum-2009/166428-quick-question-how-many-miles-before.html

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v-series-forum-2009/163892-filled-all-3-holes-up-amsoil.html
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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69,483 Posts
Follow your owner's manual recommendations and go with your favorite name brand oil and filter. If the engine was supplied with a synthetic oil or blend, stick with that in the recommended viscosity. Contrary to popular belief, the engine manufacturer has a pretty good idea of what type oil is best for your particular engine. They're not interested in selling additives and snake oil - they're interested in your getting the best engine performance possible with the least warranty claims.
 

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1996 Seville STS
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32 Posts
And who in the general population runs their car for 12 hours a day, virtually every day?

That test meant nothing compared to real world experience of engine warm up, cool down, warm up, cool down.

Consumer Reports, bah!

New cars no longer require any kind of special "break in" oil. They come from the factory with the oil that is recommended for all future oil changes in them. As far as early oil changes are concerned, it is a matter of choice. People that run their vehicle hard, tend to change the oil sooner. Some years back, Consumer Reports ran a test on identical taxicab fleets. They started the test with new engines in both fleets and all measurements taken and recorded. They changed the oil at 3000 miles in one group and ran the second group to 6000 miles without changing the oil. Both sets of engines were then dismantled and the measurements taken again. They could find no significant difference between the two groups. Obviously, if you do not run the vehicle at all, it will probably last a very long time. There is no thread, that I know of, on this subject.
 

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2013 6MT V wagon, OBM, 2009 silver V sedan (traded)
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Honda vehicles do use special break-in oil still. Not required, sure, but some manufacturers still do it. On the Acura forum I frequent, people have done oil analysis on that particular oil....

Our owner's manual doesn't say anything about break-in oil, so I assume that what's put in at the factory is what's recommended by GM. I say, change your oil early if you want, it's only better for engine longevity, though the factory intervals are there for a reason.
 

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The description of the Consumer Reports test was provided for information only. Take it or leave it as you choose. You too, Frankma.
 

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2009 CTSv & 2006 STSv + 1991 SHO
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Discussion Starter #10
New cars no longer require any kind of special "break in" oil. They come from the factory with the oil that is recommended for all future oil changes in them. As far as early oil changes are concerned, it is a matter of choice. People that run their vehicle hard, tend to change the oil sooner..
Thx Ted! Although the oil looks decent, and I've been careful with breakin so far, there is still very minor black looking muddiness when I wipe the dipstick with a towel paper... I figure an early oil change won't hurt.


Thx for looking TopperH, awesome car btw, if its in the budget, I don't why people would buy anything else.

Thx ReadyAct... I knew I saw some stuff on this before! thx for the links.


Anonfrank, I thought there were some companies that still did that. Thanks for confirmation. I just wanted to make sure this car wasn't one of them.
 

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Back in the day I used to break engines in with ND(non detergent)30 oil. With the tolerances of todays engines and the quality of oil that is now used, regular oil is perectly fine. For the first oil change 3k is fine. The dark color of the oil at 1k could be the assembly lube that is used to put the engine together with...not really a big deal honestly. But I am gonna say that this topic could probably be argued till yer blue in the face. Just be responsible and comfortable with your oil change intervals.
 

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2005 STS V8
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522 Posts
I'm not changing mine until the OLM gets to about 20%. Same thing I did with my 2005 STS, Corvettes, and Trailblazer SS. Never had a problem.
 

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2009 CTS-V , 2010 SRX 2.8T
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I change my first couple oil changes about every 1k miles. I'd have to say though that the single most important thing about a new motor is properly letting it warm up when starting the motor. Motor wear is mostly done on start up and if you flog the car cold you will score up the cylinder walls.
 

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2009 CTSv & 2006 STSv + 1991 SHO
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Discussion Starter #14
I change my first couple oil changes about every 1k miles. I'd have to say though that the single most important thing about a new motor is properly letting it warm up when starting the motor. Motor wear is mostly done on start up and if you flog the car cold you will score up the cylinder walls.
Good point. Since I went with the Auto (first Auto i've ever owned) I tend to use the starter all the time as I walk to the car. Typically I don't let it warm up for more the a min though. I also try to let the car idle for 30 seconds to a min when I park it before turning it off.
 

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2013 6MT V wagon, OBM, 2009 silver V sedan (traded)
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Motor wear is mostly done on start up and if you flog the car cold you will score up the cylinder walls.
I agree! I warm up the car for a minimum of 60 seconds before taking off, or 2-3 minutes on cold days, and I don't flog the car until it's close to proper operating temperature.
 

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CTS-V 2009 White Diamond, 996TT Silver, G35 Coupe 6mt, M45S
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On both turbo cars i own/owned (porsche 996tt/300zxtt), if i don't warm up the engine, it simply doesn't run very smooth. I will notice vibrations in the clutch and shifter. And then the vibrations won't go away until the car is cooled down and then properly warmed up. My guess is the heat isn't properly distributed and the ecu is miscalibrated. So far the caddy has been smooth, i always warm it up, and i have to drive at least 5 minutes from home before I get to a point where I can stomp on it.

Hans.
 

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'09 CTS-V Clack 6psd (manual), Recaro, Loaded...
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381 Posts
I have yet to drive my car from a cold start with less than 3 minutes warm up, typically closer to 5. Even after that I won't get on the car for another full 5 minutes of driving or so. The cool thing is that this motor does come up to temp pretty quick. If it isn't a cold start I still let it sit for 30 seconds to let the oil get out of the pan and circulating.

I never turn the car off directly after a hard run, I will let it sit for a full two minutes to cool down and 15-20 seconds if I've been casually driving.

It might be over kill but it is cheap insurance IMHO.
 

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2017 ATS-V Sedan, Vector Blue/Black, 6MT
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Most recommendations are for gentle driving when cold, not idling. The oil pressure is pretty low at idle, and might not circulate that well when cold, though synthetic oil should be better in this regard. It's too bad there is no oil temperature gauge. It takes a lot longer to warm the oil up than the cooling system, and one shouldn't really get on it until the oil is warm. My M5 and all of my Porsches have oil temp gauges, and they are really useful.
 

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Most recommendations are for gentle driving when cold, not idling. The oil pressure is pretty low at idle, and might not circulate that well when cold, though synthetic oil should be better in this regard. It's too bad there is no oil temperature gauge. It takes a lot longer to warm the oil up than the cooling system, and one shouldn't really get on it until the oil is warm. My M5 and all of my Porsches have oil temp gauges, and they are really useful.
Huh? The V2 doesn't have an oil temp gauge? That is odd. Have you flipped through the DIC?
 

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2017 ATS-V Sedan, Vector Blue/Black, 6MT
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No oil temp gauge. Oil pressure gauge has been moved there. Voltmeter is there. There is supposed to be a transmission temperature gauge, but my car doesn't have one, perhaps because it's a manual. The G meter is there too.
 
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