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Discussion Starter #1
Went to back out of the garage this morning and when I hit the brake it went all the way to the floor. I hit it a few more times and it seem to have corrected itself but it still seems a bit mushy. :helpless:

Diagnosis? Should I be rushing to the dealer? Does this sound expensive? (warranty is up). Its been cold here, but I park in a garage at night which is usually 50F.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Could be a bad caliper, when I took it out again there was some noticble griding sounds when I would break.
 

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2003 CTS Manual Trans., '93 STS
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Grinding noises during braking typically indicate worn (to the backing plate) brake pads, or it could be a small rock between the brake pad and disk. Calipers are very simple, and nothing more than a piston in a bore that's housed in a heavy metal bracket. Floating calipers typically don't wear the pads evenly front to back. You'll find it's plenty thick at the front (or rear) and the other end is down to the backing plate.

If it went to the floor and no fluid leaked out, it's likely not a caliper. If it started working again like normal, that would cause me some concern. The issue is, if you bring it to the dealer and they can't reproduce it, they'll likely send you home. If this happened again (during driving) it could be catastrophic. Personally, I'd have it looked at asap, especially if it's still under warranty.

I've had a master cylinder in my '65 Mustang do something similar. It was due to worn O-ring seals inside. The first time, I simply honed out any rust spots and pits in the master cylinder and installed a rebuild kit that includes all new internals. A few years later, I simply bought a rebuilt master cylinder. These cars are too new to have worn master cylinders. My Mustang has something like 500K miles on it and was a daily driver for me, for over 20 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah, sorry, I didnt mean to say caliper, I meant to say pad. :thepan:

There wasnt any leaking brakefluid. I took the tires off today and had a look. The inside pad on the driverside looks pretty uneven, and I think its cracked towards the bottom where it looked pretty thin. Ive done brakejobs before, but never on this car. Im busy this week and next weekend is xmas, so I guess ill be taking it someplace to have it done. Ive never had a brakepad crack before, Ive also never had the pedal go to the floor before then recover like it.

69k miles, I guess it was due for a brakejob anyway.
 

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I bought a used set of Brembo 2 piece 14" brakes for my car (similar dimensions as the V's) and the pads were also cracked. I bought a new set of Hawk HPS pads for them, rather than the stock Ferrodo's (too, dusty). I've read good things about Hawk pads. They also make a dustless Ceramic pad for the CTS (I think Robert uses these). If your simply replacing pads, it should be a quick 30 minute job. If the disks are scored, that's a different story. but new rotors aren't that expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
odysseus said:
If your simply replacing pads, it should be a quick 30 minute job. If the disks are scored, that's a different story. but new rotors aren't that expensive.

See now, I was all ready to do this, this afternoon. But then I got to talking with my dad on the phone and he said I better not put on new pads without turning the rotors no matter how smooth I think they look. So I just decided to bring my car in, becasue taking off the rotors and finding a place to have them turned was more then I wanted to do on a chilly sunday afternoon.

Do you think its safe to put on new pads as long as there is no noticble scoring?
 

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05CTS said:
Ceramic pads are nice but they kill rotor life.
Are you sure of that? My Hawk Ceramics offer extended rotor life.






Enlarge Photo


Hawk Performance introduces a unique ceramic composite formulation specifically developed to meet the ultra-low dust and low noise attributes of Original Equipment ceramic brake pads while maintaining the high friction levels professional brake tuners have grown to expect from Hawk Performance. Hawk Performance Ceramic Brake Pads do not compromise performance and offer a solution to many consumers' number one complaint: DUST! Performance Ceramic Brake Pads also feature a fade resistant, linear friction profile that allows your ABS brake system to work more effectively.
Hawk Performance Ceramic Brake Pads — Quiet, Clean, Safe and Fast Stopping.
Key Features & Benefits of Hawk Performance Ceramic Brake Pads
  • Ultra-low dust
  • Improved braking over OE
  • Stable friction output
  • Extremely quiet
  • Extended pad life
  • Increased rotor life
 

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shaft said:
Do you think its safe to put on new pads as long as there is no noticble scoring?
If there's no scoring, and no pulsation (warping), I see no reason to simply replace the pads. Many times, so much material is removed after turning, succeptability to warping is increased. I usually buy new pads and rotors in advance, if the rotors don't look up to par and do a complete swap.

If you want, you can remove the rotors and rough up the surface with 100 grit emery cloth to break any glaze. Spray everything with brake cleaner after its all done, and make sure you bed in the pads after you install them. Instructions for this are pretty much all over the 'net, of you are unfamiliar with this.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
odysseus said:
I usually buy new pads and rotors in advance, if the rotors don't look up to par and do a complete swap..

Anyone have suggestions on rotors? I see them on drilled and slotted on ebay anywhere from $170 to $400.
 

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shaft said:
Anyone have suggestions on rotors? I see them on drilled and slotted on ebay anywhere from $170 to $400.
Shaft,
Lots of threads on drilled/slotted rotors. My warning is to not get the cheap cast rotors made in China. The usually sell on Ebay for $170 to $200. They are actually cheaper than plain OEM rotors. For the most part they are junk.

I purchased my cross drilled slotted rotors from Cadillac MotorSports. They were cryo treated and zinc washed. I've had them for about a year now.
I think they get $695 for the set of 4.

 

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GM does not recommend servicing the rotors unless they are badly scored or warped. If you don't notice pulsation and you are not metal to metal and you just want to replace pads then do so.
Turning the rotors every time is an old school thing.
Besides some of these new rotors are made out of stuff that won't withstand a lot of machining. They are pretty close to throwaway specs out the door sometimes. I haven't checked any Vs yet to see.

Yeah, the fronts are 1.259" new and minimum machine is 1.220". That's only .039 to work with and if they are as soft as I think they are that might be about 2 brake jobs worth. I would find a way to mic them or have them checked. Now that's minimum machine, if you leave them alone and they stay square you can drive them down to.... 1.181"

The only thing you have to worry about when you switch to an aftermarket pad is the heat range. All braking materials have a termperature range in which they are most effective. Compositions for racing might be good on the track but are going to suck on the street and vice versa. No matter what you put on, be aware of that when you start driving until you get used to them.
On one of my old cars I put OE pads and when the temps were below 30 outside I had NO BRAKES until I drove for about a mile. Made it really exciting backing out of my driveway let me tell you.

Did the pedal actually drop? Could it have been ABS or traction kicking in?
You say the fluid level is good and the fluid is in good condition?
Remove the lid from the master cylinder and make sure the rubber gasket on the cap is not swollen. Someone may have contaminated your fluid.
 

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turning rotors is usually a great scam. Its rarely needed, plus if you do the work yourself you can usually buy new rotors for what they'll charge you to turn your old ones, plus turning them will drastically reduce the life of the rotors. (the only thing I'm not sure about is the cost of replacement rotors for the CTS, some of my cars are only $15, some are $80.)
 

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suchnsuch said:
turning rotors is usually a great scam. Its rarely needed, plus if you do the work yourself you can usually buy new rotors for what they'll charge you to turn your old ones, plus turning them will drastically reduce the life of the rotors. (the only thing I'm not sure about is the cost of replacement rotors for the CTS, some of my cars are only $15, some are $80.)
GMPD Rotor Price:

GM PART # 18060686 *
CATEGORY: All
PACK QTY: 1CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $175.92
OUR PRICE: $87.96DESCRIPTION: ROTOR
 
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