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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone.
I am desperately in need of help. I have 2009 Cts and it is giving be braking problem while I am driving. This is what happens. I drive car for anywhere from 10 mins to 1 hour and next thing you know your car is stalling and coming to stop slowly to a point you can not even move 2 feet. The light on dash says Stabilitrack lock service brake. When this happen you cannot move car look like someone just slam the brakes.It will not even move few feets. I called tow truck other day to take it to my mechanic and tow guy have to hook chain on front to pull car on his rack. So far I have change Abs brake module with computer and it did not work. I would appreciate all the help I can get
 

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Hi Everyone.
I am desperately in need of help. I have 2009 Cts and it is giving be braking problem while I am driving. This is what happens. I drive car for anywhere from 10 mins to 1 hour and next thing you know your car is stalling and coming to stop slowly to a point you can not even move 2 feet. The light on dash says Stabilitrack lock service brake. When this happen you cannot move car look like someone just slam the brakes.It will not even move few feets. I called tow truck other day to take it to my mechanic and tow guy have to hook chain on front to pull car on his rack. So far I have change Abs brake module with computer and it did not work. I would appreciate all the help I can get
Welcome, Sidd- sorry to hear of your troubles.

The best thing to do is scan your vehicle with a code reader that detects more than just CEL functions.
Once that is done, the problem(s) should be self-evident. If not, post back with your codes and their definitions for further assistance.

Best of luck.
 

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Post more history on your car; mileage, all wheel drive, or rear, any recent repairs, etc. For some unknown ridiculous reason I did not save the link, but I watched a recent youtube video related to ABS control of the brakes that involved a CTS with intermittent brake lock up, and no solution after several visits to repair shops and several brake related part replacements. The scenario was similar to yours except I don't recall any associated codes. It turned out to be a bad brake hose which appeared normal on the outside, but had internal corrosion on the inside of the hose that was covered by its mounting bracket.

The symptoms were very similar. Drive the car for a while and the brakes would gradually bring the vehicle to a halt. There were other GM vehicles with a similar complaint. The owner found the cause by accident. The stabilitrack warning may suggest something more involved but there are many things that can cause that warning to trip. My approach would be to find out which wheels are locking down which would require raising it off the ground, provided no headway can be made with codes that may or may not be stored for guidance.

One wheel locking up and dragging considerably could certainly be picked up by the computer. The system would take issue with the steering wheel signaling a straight line and one wheel out of the bunch turning slower than the others in the presence of increased engine load. I cut the wheels a little too sharp coming out of the gas station once dropping the inside rear wheel off of the curb and immediately stabilitrack kicked in and cut power until it was satisfied everything was okay.
 

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Definitely need more background information as Joseph states.
Also, where is the brake fluid level in the MC? Overfilling the reservoir can lead to problems, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I took car to cadillac repair shop who special in cadillac repair. He did not find any codes related to brake. He mention it could be And module or computer on module or calipers or it could me anything. His suggestion was to sell the car. I have 110k moles. I did change brake pads and after few months this problem started. Talk to my mechanic who changed the brake pad he said if brake pad was the problem it could have happened right away but it didn't happen for a few months . I am planning to have my mechanic put the car on a lift and run the car and see which she'll will Jam that's the last resort. Thanks
 

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'09 CTS DI FE1 Luxury
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Find a competent mechanic. Where are you?
 
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You likely just have a sticking caliper on the rear brakes or you possibly have bad flexible brake lines. A guy at work reused a turkey baster that he used for something else to suck brake fluid out of his truck and when he refilled with fresh brake fluid there was enough contamination he ended up having to replace all of the rubber in the brake system because it swelled up. That included the flexible brake lines, the rubber in the calipers and the master cylinder. Apparently he is bored because he paid for the rebuild kits and rebuilt everything instead of spending a few dollars more and getting rebuild units.

I SERIOUSLY doubt it is electronic and is more likely mechanical.

And it sounds like you have talked to some dumb mechanics or scammers...

Rodney
 

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I am in Clearwater Florida
Sorry but I can't suggest a shop. I only know a few good shops in MD and PA. As suggested, it sounds like a stuck caliper or similar and mechanical in nature. Good luck.
 

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Take it for a drive and see which rim is hotter.. If you have a stuck caliper it is likely you will have one very hot rim. A non touch temperature sensor is best to look at them... But I have done it where I purposely touch it very quickly... The heat won't register right away but if you just quick tap it you can tell if it is hot or not by waiting a second or so after you tapped it to see what you feel.

I should note that if it is really hot it could burn you but thats why you tap it quickly. Less likely to be burned. But then again you could touch the outer part of the rim first and then work your way down taping and waiting a second for the heat to register to your brain until you get to the middle. You can tell which one is stuck that way. It is common for mechanics to not put caliper slide grease on the slide pins when doing brake work which can mean you end up replacing your brakes sooner. Can be the reason you needed new brakes in the first place.

Or just let the mechanic pull all four wheels and tell by the condition of the pads.

Rodney
 

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Post more history on your car; mileage, all wheel drive, or rear, any recent repairs, etc. For some unknown ridiculous reason I did not save the link, but I watched a recent youtube video related to ABS control of the brakes that involved a CTS with intermittent brake lock up, and no solution after several visits to repair shops and several brake related part replacements. The scenario was similar to yours except I don't recall any associated codes. It turned out to be a bad brake hose which appeared normal on the outside, but had internal corrosion on the inside of the hose that was covered by its mounting bracket.

The symptoms were very similar. Drive the car for a while and the brakes would gradually bring the vehicle to a halt. There were other GM vehicles with a similar complaint. The owner found the cause by accident. The stabilitrack warning may suggest something more involved but there are many things that can cause that warning to trip. My approach would be to find out which wheels are locking down which would require raising it off the ground, provided no headway can be made with codes that may or may not be stored for guidance.

One wheel locking up and dragging considerably could certainly be picked up by the computer. The system would take issue with the steering wheel signaling a straight line and one wheel out of the bunch turning slower than the others in the presence of increased engine load. I cut the wheels a little too sharp coming out of the gas station once dropping the inside rear wheel off of the curb and immediately stabilitrack kicked in and cut power until it was satisfied everything was okay.

You likely just have a sticking caliper on the rear brakes or you possibly have bad flexible brake lines. A guy at work reused a turkey baster that he used for something else to suck brake fluid out of his truck and when he refilled with fresh brake fluid there was enough contamination he ended up having to replace all of the rubber in the brake system because it swelled up. That included the flexible brake lines, the rubber in the calipers and the master cylinder. Apparently he is bored because he paid for the rebuild kits and rebuilt everything instead of spending a few dollars more and getting rebuild units.

I SERIOUSLY doubt it is electronic and is more likely mechanical.

And it sounds like you have talked to some dumb mechanics or scammers...

Rodney
I took car to cadillac repair shop who special in cadillac repair. He did not find any codes related to brake. He mention it could be And module or computer on module or calipers or it could me anything. His suggestion was to sell the car. I have 110k moles. I did change brake pads and after few months this problem started. Talk to my mechanic who changed the brake pad he said if brake pad was the problem it could have happened right away but it didn't happen for a few months . I am planning to have my mechanic put the car on a lift and run the car and see which she'll will Jam that's the last resort. Thanks
That's right, dump it on some unsuspecting individual and move on (sarcasm). That mechanic is one more example of why they are often suspect and mistrusted. Heat is what usually brings out the worst in intermittent brake problems. Most diy brake installs neglect to clean and relubricate the caliper slides, some mechanics fail to do this also. I realized the importance and started doing it when I noticed diagonal pad wear and other irregularities from binding calipers which instead of sticking closed, were sticking open and not applying properly. Hoses and a sticking caliper should be high on the list.

I didn't mention it above, but the GM owner who discovered the problem was with a brake hose in his vehicle, had also gone through an ABS module via the dealer along with others with no success. The troubled hose acted like a check valve and as the brake system heated up and fluid expanded along with the parts, the brakes began to apply on their own generating more heat, and making the problem worse. The ABS unit is the only thing capable of additional automatic braking control so perhaps unplugging it could have ruled it out since the brakes will work normal, but without ABS management. Since you've replaced it, that should rule it out.

Electrical problems are very, rarely that consistent, however a mechanical problem subject to heat related exacerbation would likely be, as the components will heat up in a fairly consistent pattern, especially along the same route traveled.

When the car was dragged onto the tow truck, were all of the wheels locked up?
 

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When the car was dragged onto the tow truck, were all of the wheels locked up?
This ^^^^...
Unless the tow truck driver left the car in park while loading it. :)

The reason I suggested having codes read was to determine WHERE the problem may be originating. I would think that a good code reader could detect which corner was not moving as designed.

Also, the OP stated that the vehicle was stalling, then stopping. This could be an important detail or just a poor description of a traditional lock-up.

Sounds like the CTS is at a shop now, so I surmise we'll just have to wait for an update.
 

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No question about scanning, that should be the very first step. It's a hair splitting situation in regards to the description given as you've pointed out, did it really stall and what does "He didn't find any codes related to brakes" mean? I certainly wouldn't trust any advice from the specialist that looked at the car following the recommendation given (If I can't fix it, or figure it out, I suggest you sell it). I'm pretty confident that if the ABS unit is disabled and the car allowed to function as if it doesn't have them, a hydraulic lock would be the only way the brakes could apply. You apply the brakes to start the sequence and fluid and part expansion down stream of the trouble spot takes it from there. That is the scenario I read about. No amount of manipulation of the ABS system had any effect on the problem, which turned out to be a hose.
 

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Is a common problem. When the 4 whel disks on my '59 would grab I just stood on the brakes really hard and would pop free when released. Turned out to be a bad/clogged brake hose and as the fulid got hot it would expand until the brake locked.

Are all four locking or just one ? If all four I have seen a clogged ABS unit do that.

If just one or one axle, since you do not mention any steering issues and it comes on slowly I would suspect a rear brake, hose, or proportioning valve.

Quick way to find out has nothing to do with a scanner, just get it to where it locks and carefully open the bleeder valve for each wheel. The one(s) that spurts is/are where the problem is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
When car brakes jam and I push gas my rear wheels spin and car skid from back. Its a rear wheel drive.. One more thing if I shut car off and remove the keys and wait for 20 mins I will hear a some kind of pressure release from front of driver side wheel and brake will release. sometime you will not hear the noise of pressure release but if you wait for 20 minutes brake pressure will release in car and car work normally till next time it happen again . Thanks
 

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When car brakes jam and I push gas my rear wheels spin and car skid from back. Its a rear wheel drive.. One more thing if I shut car off and remove the keys and wait for 20 mins I will hear a some kind of pressure release from front of driver side wheel and brake will release. sometime you will not hear the noise of pressure release but if you wait for 20 minutes brake pressure will release in car and car work normally till next time it happen again . Thanks
That specialist should have been able to take that description and run the problem down with it. Stabilitrack is probably coming on because of the wheel spin. 20 minute wait for normal to return sounds like a cool down effect. This is a perfect scenario for troubleshooting. The symptoms persisting long enough to be observed and the blockage point tracked down.
 

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The troubled hose acted like a check valve
Coworker had this happen on his SUV, replaced the caliper thinking it was siezed, bled the fluid and it seemed to be fixed, only to come back a few days later. Turned out it was the hose and where it passed through the mounting bracket was acting like a one-way valve not allowing the pressure to release.

Sent from my SM-J727V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just talk to mechanic and he told me he found brake fluid in the master cylinder. He took all that out and he drove
it look okay right now but will not know till drive around little more and see if it Jam or not
 
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