Brake Caliper + Rotor Removal/Installation Procedure with Pictures

12982 Views 10 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Jon, Dec 9, 2010

Jon

Discussion Starter · May 21, 2007

http://www.jon04ctsv.com/brakes/

Enjoy! Please excuse any grammar/spelling errors. It's been a long day!

For more info and pics on my UUC rotors from Lindsay Cadillac: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...uuc-cross-drilled-slotted-rotors-lindsay.html

Reed: feel free to add this or any of my other guides/tutorials to the FAQ. Just please provide a link

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Jim's 06

· #2 · May 21, 2007

Just a few comments and observations--Why use a torque wrench to loosen bolts? They're not designed for that, and the only advantage here is the extra leverage you have for loosening. And, you didn't mention it, but just wire brush bolts before torquing- no lube or anything else that would affect torque specs. When replacing pads, it's always recommended that you start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder--RR, LR, RF, and then LF. And before replacing pads, PLEASE loosen/remove the cap on the master cylinder, and put a "diaper" under it to catch the brake fluid displaced by the new pads (if you don't, you can blow the cap off and spray brake fluid all over the engine, etc {I admit I've done this}), especially if you're doing all four brakes.

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Jon

Discussion Starter · #3 · May 21, 2007

Jim's 06 said:
Just a few comments and observations--Why use a torque wrench to loosen bolts? They're not designed for that, and the only advantage here is the extra leverage you have for loosening. And, you didn't mention it, but just wire brush bolts before torquing- no lube or anything else that would affect torque specs. When replacing pads, it's always recommended that you start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder--RR, LR, RF, and then LF. And before replacing pads, PLEASE loosen/remove the cap on the master cylinder, and put a "diaper" under it to catch the brake fluid displaced by the new pads (if you don't, you can blow the cap off and spray brake fluid all over the engine, etc {I admit I've done this}), especially if you're doing all four brakes.

If you can remove those caliper bracket bolts without a torque wrench, you're superman.

The only time I used any lube on anything was the torx screw. Wire brushing wouldn't have helped it all. It wasn't the rust on the surface that was holding the screw.

As for replacing pads, I didn't have any issues with the brake fluid. I just watched the resevoir and made sure it didn't get near the top. My guide was mainly for removing the rotors, not changing the pads, since I figured that'd be the same for almost every vehicle.

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ctsvett

· #4 · May 22, 2007

Jon said:
Reed: feel free to add this or any of my other guides/tutorials to the FAQ. Just please provide a link

Will do and definitly provide a link...

Thanks!

Reed

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ctsvett

· #5 · May 22, 2007

Jon said:
Reed: feel free to add this or any of my other guides/tutorials to the FAQ. Just please provide a link

Will do and definitly provide a link...

Thanks!

Reed

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samoskacts03

· #6 · May 22, 2007

great pictorial and explanation...another great job jon! :thumbsup:

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LUVMY04V

· #7 · May 22, 2007

Jon said:
http://www.jon04ctsv.com/brakes/

Enjoy! Please excuse any grammar/spelling errors. It's been a long day!

For more info and pics on my UUC rotors from Lindsay Cadillac: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...uuc-cross-drilled-slotted-rotors-lindsay.html

Reed: feel free to add this or any of my other guides/tutorials to the FAQ. Just please provide a link

great job :thumbsup: and btw who is taking all the pics.....that dude deserves some credit too

Jim's 06 said:
Just a few comments and observations--Why use a torque wrench to loosen bolts? They're not designed for that, and the only advantage here is the extra leverage you have for loosening. And, you didn't mention it, but just wire brush bolts before torquing- no lube or anything else that would affect torque specs. When replacing pads, it's always recommended that you start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder--RR, LR, RF, and then LF. And before replacing pads, PLEASE loosen/remove the cap on the master cylinder, and put a "diaper" under it to catch the brake fluid displaced by the new pads (if you don't, you can blow the cap off and spray brake fluid all over the engine, etc {I admit I've done this}), especially if you're doing all four brakes.

if u won the lottery you would bitch about the taxes u have to pay wouldnt you???

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Elizabeth Herrera

· #8 · Dec 9, 2010

That was great, thanks a lot

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454Casull

· #9 · Dec 9, 2010

Wow, thread resurrection to the max.

BTW, don't use a torque wrench to unscrew bolts. Use a breaker bar if you have to.

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hey8you

· #10 · Dec 9, 2010

454Casull said:
BTW, don't use a torque wrench to unscrew bolts. Use a breaker bar if you have to.

:yeah:

A wrench on the end of a ratchet works well too if you don't have a breaker bar.

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Jon

Discussion Starter · #11 · Dec 9, 2010

Wow someone bumped my old thread lol.

And guys, that torx screw was removed with a ratchet. That torque wrench is there to stop the rotor from spinning.

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