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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone! I’m pretty new to the site I haven’t really posted or been here in a while. But a few days ago I got myself a 2008 CTS from a used car place. The car is pretty good, it has some lights on: the abs, traction control and stabilitrak. I used a cheap obd2 scanner and only one code came up. That would be the wheel speed sensor, I’m not sure which one I’ll have to go look again. I’m actually not even sure this scanner specified which one it is.

Anyway while driving the car home about 40 miles or so, I noticed it didn’t really shift at 40. I feel like it should, it just gets loud and hasn’t got much power. I drove it home at like 65 mph so I don’t think it’s in limp mode, but I only drive it about 35 around town. I haven’t been doing any driving since I brought it home though because I wanted to find out what was going on and I didn’t want to possibly hurt it more. The transmission shifts fine otherwise. I’m not familiar with all these sensors and I don’t know if a wheel speed sensor being bad would cause this. I posted on a Facebook group and a whole number of things were said and honestly I’m a little more confused than when I started. I appreciate their help but you know how Facebook groups can be. I have a few specific questions I need answered.

1. Does or can a bad wheel speed sensor have an effect on the transmission and could this be why it’s not shifting at 40?
2. Is this a job I can do myself? What special tools if any would I need?
3. How do I identify which sensor is bad?
4. Unrelated, does the CTS have known issues with gas leaks in certain spots? I have a gas smell coming from the rear of the car and I’m sure something is just loose so if there are any typical spots I’d appreciate the heads up.

thanks everyone!
 

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Using a quality scanner will tell you exactly which corner the faulty speed sensor is at. It is more likely to be a failing tone ring which will require a hub assembly replacement. Most times, the hub is frozen to the knuckle and can be daunting to remove without a hub buster or chisel and lots of heat.
The fuel smell could possibly be a cracked fuel line elbow above the gas tank or a faulty evap vent valve. Further investigation will be required to pinpoint the source of the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Using a quality scanner will tell you exactly which corner the faulty speed sensor is at. It is more likely to be a failing tone ring which will require a hub assembly replacement. Most times, the hub is frozen to the knuckle and can be daunting to remove without a hub buster or chisel and lots of heat.
The fuel smell could possibly be a cracked fuel line elbow above the gas tank or a faulty evap vent valve. Further investigation will be required to pinpoint the source of the leak.
Thanks for the info! Does this bad wheel speed sensor cause a shifting issue though? That’s my main concern.
 

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Thanks for the info! Does this bad wheel speed sensor cause a shifting issue though? That’s my main concern.
Welcome to the forum. This kind of intro is very concerning and unfortunate. I believe Long just doesn't want to be the one to tell you how serious this situation may be. The question you are asking is simple and straightforward, the answer is not. The car you are driving is a rolling computer that needs to be in contact with the other main computers on board in order to run correctly. It is possible the transmission shift programming (computer controlled) is altering/limiting the shift points in association with a code. At the moment, in order for anyone here that has any experience with what you are challenged with to be of most help, all of the codes need to be identified and that requires a good scan tool capable of reading all codes that can be present. No doubt you have some body control module (BCM) codes, but they are not signaled by a dash light, only a capable scan tool can access them.

The "abs, traction control and stabilitrak" warnings could be an awful lot more serious than just a wheel speed sensor and a strong smell of fuel from the rear of a second gen Cadillac CTS is almost always a bad fuel pump module leaking at the outlet elbow. Look beneath the passenger side of the fuel tank and see if there is a stain on the bottom of it. Right now we'd be guessing and adding to your confusion, as a fuel leak can set off stabilitrak if the fuel pressure is insufficient.

Get all of the codes as they are the means to how you should approach the repair. Find the fuel leak asap.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info. That does concern me of course. I have an appointment at a nearby mechanic who comes highly recommended and they’re going to see what other codes may be present. Then we are going to take care of that wheel speed sensor and see what that does. It’s definitely got the wheel speed sensor code so we will start with that. And thanks for the heads up on the fuel pump I’ll get up in there and take a look. I have the appointment Monday so we will see what they say
 

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I believe Long just doesn't want to be the one to tell you how serious this situation may be.
Yeah, that. ^^^
The speed sensor and fuel smell are fairly common, the tranny issue, not so much.
My recommendation for you to employ a quality scanner was partially to uncover codes not associated with a corresponding dash light.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah, that. ^^^
The speed sensor and fuel smell are fairly common, the tranny issue, not so much.
My recommendation for you to employ a quality scanner was partially to uncover codes not associated with a corresponding dash light.
Thanks yeah, I’m taking it in Monday to have proper diagnostics run on it. The fellow i spoke to on the phone did say that the speed sensor can cause that issue on these models. And that the speed sensor is independently serviceable from the wheel hub, unlike what I was told on the fb group. He said I could get it done and installed for less than $100 and we can go from there and see if that sorts it out. But we are doing a full diagnostic regardless. I just hope it’s nothing super serious. I’m willing to put the money into it but I also have 2 other cars sitting there and I bought this so o could have something to run around in. If I can’t even do that until I do all these repairs it was kind of pointless.

the used place I got it from unfortunately doesn’t do warranties. The guy who showed us around the car said just know you’re going to have to put a few hundred into this car to get it good. I’m hoping he’s right and it’s not a few thousand instead.
 

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Hey everyone! I’m pretty new to the site I haven’t really posted or been here in a while. But a few days ago I got myself a 2008 CTS from a used car place. The car is pretty good, it has some lights on: the abs, traction control and stabilitrak. I used a cheap obd2 scanner and only one code came up. That would be the wheel speed sensor, I’m not sure which one I’ll have to go look again. I’m actually not even sure this scanner specified which one it is.

Anyway while driving the car home about 40 miles or so, I noticed it didn’t really shift at 40. I feel like it should, it just gets loud and hasn’t got much power. I drove it home at like 65 mph so I don’t think it’s in limp mode, but I only drive it about 35 around town. I haven’t been doing any driving since I brought it home though because I wanted to find out what was going on and I didn’t want to possibly hurt it more. The transmission shifts fine otherwise. I’m not familiar with all these sensors and I don’t know if a wheel speed sensor being bad would cause this. I posted on a Facebook group and a whole number of things were said and honestly I’m a little more confused than when I started. I appreciate their help but you know how Facebook groups can be. I have a few specific questions I need answered.

1. Does or can a bad wheel speed sensor have an effect on the transmission and could this be why it’s not shifting at 40?
2. Is this a job I can do myself? What special tools if any would I need?
3. How do I identify which sensor is bad?
4. Unrelated, does the CTS have known issues with gas leaks in certain spots? I have a gas smell coming from the rear of the car and I’m sure something is just loose so if there are any typical spots I’d appreciate the heads up.

thanks everyone!
In reference to the gas smell. If it is near the rear of the vehicle you may have a crack in the fuel pump connector. I have a 2008 CTS 3.6 DI and it had the same problem. There was a crack at the top of the fuel pump where the fuel line connects. Unfortunately to fix this, the entire rear axle assembly, exhaust pipes and gas tank have to be removed from the vehicle from underneath. Then you can replace the fuel pump which is located in the gas tank. Yes you have to replace the entire fuel pump to fix a small crack in the plastic fitting. I have attached 3 photos so you can see the extent of the repair.
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IMG_0129.JPG
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Discussion Starter #10
Yikes. That looks like a lot of work and expensive! Hopefully I won’t need that. I don’t have a lift so it probably isn’t something I could do myself. I guess we will find more out Monday! Thank you all again for the advice so far.
 

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Hey everyone! I’m pretty new to the site I haven’t really posted or been here in a while. But a few days ago I got myself a 2008 CTS from a used car place. The car is pretty good, it has some lights on: the abs, traction control and stabilitrak. I used a cheap obd2 scanner and only one code came up. That would be the wheel speed sensor, I’m not sure which one I’ll have to go look again. I’m actually not even sure this scanner specified which one it is.

Anyway while driving the car home about 40 miles or so, I noticed it didn’t really shift at 40. I feel like it should, it just gets loud and hasn’t got much power. I drove it home at like 65 mph so I don’t think it’s in limp mode, but I only drive it about 35 around town. I haven’t been doing any driving since I brought it home though because I wanted to find out what was going on and I didn’t want to possibly hurt it more. The transmission shifts fine otherwise. I’m not familiar with all these sensors and I don’t know if a wheel speed sensor being bad would cause this. I posted on a Facebook group and a whole number of things were said and honestly I’m a little more confused than when I started. I appreciate their help but you know how Facebook groups can be. I have a few specific questions I need answered.

1. Does or can a bad wheel speed sensor have an effect on the transmission and could this be why it’s not shifting at 40?
2. Is this a job I can do myself? What special tools if any would I need?
3. How do I identify which sensor is bad?
4. Unrelated, does the CTS have known issues with gas leaks in certain spots? I have a gas smell coming from the rear of the car and I’m sure something is just loose so if there are any typical spots I’d appreciate the heads up.

thanks everyone!
In reference to the gas smell. If it is near the rear of the vehicle you may have a crack in the fuel pump connector. I have a 2008 CTS 3.6 DI and it had the same problem. There was a crack at the top of the fuel pump where the fuel line connects. Unfortunately to fix this, the entire rear axle assembly, exhaust pipes and gas tank have to be removed from the vehicle from underneath. Then you can replace the fuel pump which is located in the gas tank. Yes you have to replace the entire fuel pump to fix a small crack in the plastic fitting. I have attached 3 photos so you can see the extent of the repair. View attachment 576556 View attachment 576557 View attachment 576556 View attachment 576557 View attachment 576558
Hey everyone! I’m pretty new to the site I haven’t really posted or been here in a while. But a few days ago I got myself a 2008 CTS from a used car place. The car is pretty good, it has some lights on: the abs, traction control and stabilitrak. I used a cheap obd2 scanner and only one code came up. That would be the wheel speed sensor, I’m not sure which one I’ll have to go look again. I’m actually not even sure this scanner specified which one it is.

Anyway while driving the car home about 40 miles or so, I noticed it didn’t really shift at 40. I feel like it should, it just gets loud and hasn’t got much power. I drove it home at like 65 mph so I don’t think it’s in limp mode, but I only drive it about 35 around town. I haven’t been doing any driving since I brought it home though because I wanted to find out what was going on and I didn’t want to possibly hurt it more. The transmission shifts fine otherwise. I’m not familiar with all these sensors and I don’t know if a wheel speed sensor being bad would cause this. I posted on a Facebook group and a whole number of things were said and honestly I’m a little more confused than when I started. I appreciate their help but you know how Facebook groups can be. I have a few specific questions I need answered.

1. Does or can a bad wheel speed sensor have an effect on the transmission and could this be why it’s not shifting at 40?
2. Is this a job I can do myself? What special tools if any would I need?
3. How do I identify which sensor is bad?
4. Unrelated, does the CTS have known issues with gas leaks in certain spots? I have a gas smell coming from the rear of the car and I’m sure something is just loose so if there are any typical spots I’d appreciate the heads up.

thanks everyone!
Cadillac Girl
Hope you get this as the "Reply" seems screwed up on this forum.

In re: to your Stabilitrak / Traction Control / ABS Warning - You probably have a bad wheel bearing.
There are four on your car. One or more can be bad. They are mechanical and mechanical things wear out in time and with mileage - some faster than others.
I had one wear out at 92,000 and the second at 96,000 (both rear).
Repair cost @ $400 per wheel.
Unless you own a repair facility, I would not attempt a repair.
Look up the repair on You Tube … looks like a pain …to DIY.
If your are lucky you will only need one bearing replaced.

As for the transmission, good luck. It may be as another forum writer said and inter-related issue with another problem. As a non-technical auto guy, I can't say. I will say though when you buy a Cadillac with a lot of miles or one that is over 5 years old … Caveat Emptor … A Cadillac guy once told me you probably never should have a Cadillac out of warranty. If you have one that is over 5 years and was treated like a family member (like mine) and know the previous owner, you probably will be OK … but I would not want to buy one from just anyone. I hope you got a good deal on your CTS. I have owned mine from day one. It is 12 years old with 110,000 miles - runs like a top, but at this point requires about $1,500 - $2,000 per year to repair worn out parts. I figure a new XT4 will cost me $500+ / month to lease or own, which equates to about 4 car payments. After that my return on investment is met. Just say'n … but I think surmise you may have purchased a nice looking car that needs a lot of TLC to make it a daily runner.
 

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Wonder if you could just cut a door in the trunk ?
Trunk...NO.
Under the rear seat, YES.
The entire rear subframe and fuel tank DO NOT need to be removed for the elbow repair, it's just one way of doing it. Many have cut access doors in the floor under the rear seat to fix this leak.

Also, your mechanic is correct that the speed sensor is serviceable independently of the hub, but rarely is it the cause of the problem. Most times, as said before, it is a failed tone ring on the back of the assembly. A visual inspection usually confirms this before work needs to be done.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Trunk...NO.
Under the rear seat, YES.
The entire rear subframe and fuel tank DO NOT need to be removed for the elbow repair, it's just one way of doing it. Many have cut access doors in the floor under the rear seat to fix this leak.

Also, your mechanic is correct that the speed sensor is serviceable independently of the hub, but rarely is it the cause of the problem. Most times, as said before, it is a failed tone ring on the back of the assembly. A visual inspection usually confirms this before work needs to be done.
thank you very much for this information. I’m hoping we have some good new tomorrow at the mechanic shop. I’ll mention these things to him. My main concern is the shifting issue obviously. That really scares me. I really like the car though so whatever it is we will deal with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey everyone so quick update, there is indeed a laundry list of things wrong with this car. The main concern is the gas smell. He showed me the issue, the gas is literally leaking (quite badly actually) from the tank and dangerously close to the hot exhaust pipes. He said to me that this dealer should never have even sold this car as is because it could have caught fire and I could have gotten hurt. He suggested I take action against the dealer in any way I can, even though the car was sold as is with no warranty there are protections against selling a car that is actually unsafe to drive. I will be doing that but in the meantime I’m getting the gas tank issue fixed. I can’t remember exactly where he said it was but I think it was the lip of the fuel pump. So unfortunately it needs a new fuel pump and the whole shebang is costing me $1100. I expected to put money into this car but Jesus..

he also said the dealer cleared engine codes to sell this car. My fiancé is gong to go there to complain even though the car was sold as is no warranty, they literally endangered my life selling this car. All it would have taken is a rock sparking the exhaust where the gas was dripping. I did look under there when we were looking at it but I didn’t have a jack and couldn’t really get under there. The mechanic I’ve chosen is super cool so we are tackling the issues one by one. I can only hope the 2 transmission sensors reading low voltage is an issue with one of the connected systems, and not an internal transmission issue. He did say that it could be the misfire going on. After the gas issue we are going to do a tune up, brakes, and the front left wheel hub. Rip my finances..

I really love the car though. It’s the newest car I’ve ever had. It’s just been really neglected. I hope after these issues are done I’ll have a nice little car. It’s just money, right? 😫
 

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No surprise at all on the fuel smell findings and if you're willing to have the trap door cut beneath the rear seat, the pump problem can be resolved for surely half that price, or less. My leak wasn't as bad as what you have described so there's a good chance a code, or two will clear up by correcting the fuel pressure, which I mentioned here, or somewhere else can set off stabilitrak when the motor is being starved of fuel and that very well could affect shifting as the computer goes into protective mode throttling the engine back from the danger zone.

I'm not even going to talk about dealers. 30 years ago one of my uncles used the phrase "Worse than a used car dealer" in describing some scoundrel like behavior and not much has changed in all of those years for the better I see, including my own experience. Hope your story turns out as good as mine did in the end.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
They’ve unfortunately already taken down the rear end so the cutting a hole won’t be an option. But I’ll remember that if there’s a next time. It’s unfortunate I didn’t find this guy before because he offers pre purchase inspection for pretty cheap. The good thing is though while this is costi me quite a bit his prices are rather reasonable for the most part. Time will tell if the work itself is good.

the one thing I’m excited about and I know this is a Cadillac forum, but I have a 1985 Lincoln town car hearse that is desperate for work. And it’s got that terrible tbi thing that nobody knows how to work on and when I mentioned the car to him he knew immediately what it was. I didn’t even mention tbi but he knows how to deal with them. That alone is worth it. This car is totally messed up but it’s the only one that exists in the entire world so I’m hell bent on saving it.

next up though is that wheel bearing. He said what you already suspect in that clearing up this fuel issue might clear up some of the problems this car has with how it runs. The whole computerized car thing is just completely alien to me. I’m grateful in that my fiancé and I (just barely) have the funds to cover this. For now I have to go work more and replenish our rainy day $!
 

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Some of the nicest things I've seen on wheels have been restored and customized old school autos. It's not as easy to do on the modern offerings that have been nipped, tucked and locked down by computers from the factory. I think my Black Raven would really look clean and mean if it was nearly completely gloss blacked out, door handles shaved, stock wheels chromed, or replaced with a set of dished chrome rims with gloss black centers and lowered 2".

It's a good thing that you have a team effort going with you and your better half. Yeah, I meant to say that.
 

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Thanks yeah. Well I’d much prefer to drive around one of my hearses but unfortunately 8 mpg isn’t very practical. I drove each of them as daily drivers at one point. And at one point o owned 3 caddy hearses and the Lincoln. Those days are gone I’m afraid but hopefully in the not too distant future I’ll be driving them for fun again.

While I know it’s a figure of speech, I do think he’d disagree with you on being my “better” half 😂 He is a good man though and I wouldn’t be able to do this without him. I can’t wait to just have a nice running car and not be worried about breaking down and not being able to get a tow because my car is 22 and a half feet long lol
 
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