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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, just bought a 98 ETC with 220,000Km on it, noticed there is some oil leaking underneath the car, rear seal?
Is it ok to drive with it leaking?

also how to check for headgasket or any other potential problems?
 

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2001 ETC Sequoia
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luc1 said:
Hello, just bought a 98 ETC with 220,000Km on it, noticed there is some oil leaking underneath the car, rear seal?
Is it ok to drive with it leaking?

also how to check for headgasket or any other potential problems?
Of course it's OK to drive it, as long as none of your fluid levels are low.

If your car is running fine and not overheating you likely shouldn't worry about head gaskets. Bad head gaskets are a rarity on a well maintained Northstar. Incidently, if you aren't sure your coolant has been replaced recently, NOW would be a good time to do it. Don't forget to add the Barsleak Gold or GM coolant protectant tabs. It's important in an aluminum engine; don't let anyone talk you out of it.

Regards,
Warren
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well that's the thing, I got it cheap for US$4K so im not sure how it was maintained.

Im going to change the engine oil/filter, should I use synthetic?
Transmission oil?
Which Coolent should I use and where do I get these additives?
Any other maintenance?
 

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2008 SRX-V8, 1991 Eldorado
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luc1 said:
Well that's the thing, I got it cheap for US$4K so im not sure how it was maintained.

Im going to change the engine oil/filter, should I use synthetic?
Transmission oil?
Which Coolent should I use and where do I get these additives?
Any other maintenance?
If have the orginal owner manual, it will suggest to use dexcool coolant, ( a 50/50 mix) a specific engine oil weight and blend according to your driving conditions, and a list of scheduled maintenance.

If you do not have the original owner manual, you can stop by any Cadillac dealership in the US/Canada for a copy the scheduled maintenance and recommended lubricants etc..

Since your odometer is quoted in KM as opposed to MILES, I must assume you live outside the United States. Therefore I can not in good faith recommend a place to purchase the expendables.
 

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2008 SRX-V8, 1991 Eldorado
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luc1 said:
Im in Canada.
Welcome!

I once lived in the Niagara Falls, New York area and visited a good portion of Ontario, but for the life of me, I can not remember any of the local chain stores on the Canadian side. I have not been in that area for almost 30 years, so the cobwebs thicken over time...*wince

I do know that you can readily obtain the correct information you are looking for from your local Cadillac dealership, very likely free of charge. They will be happy to have you as a new customer, or so they shall think.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Should I use Dex-Cool? I googled it and found lots of sites saying its not good and rusts the cooling system etc.
 

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94 Eldorado, and a 99 ETC
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Dex-Cool is actually very good, and it lasts longer than the green stuff. BUUUT, DO NOT use it if you have had the green stuff in the system. Once you go green, there is no turning back. The reason why evades my mind at the moment but it's been mentioned somewhere in these forums...
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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Once you use green coolant, the water jacket gets plated with silicates and from that point on you are relegated to 2 yr, changes whether you use Dex or not.

The Northstar is an aluminum engine. Aluminum does not rust. The problems you are reading are from guys with iron block Chevy trucks. They allow the coolant to get low. Air gets in the system and rust forms since the system is not plated with silicates. Then the engine rpm's go up and coolant sloshes through the system and washes away the rust. The cycle continues til all the rust particals clog the radiator and then they blame it on Dex-Cool. You'll be hard pressed to find any complaints about Dex in the Northstar community.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Good to hear, I had all the fluids checked and seems like the car was maintained after all, all fluids are up to date, even the engine oil is still good, but on the dipstick it goes over max?

Also had a Service Engine Soon light on, which left the engine with about half power or so, than the other night the battery died from the interior lights staying on, recharged the battery, the engine light went away, got engine power back and the light stayed off since.. should I get it checked out?
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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Enter the diagnostics and retrieve the DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes). If the SES light was on, there will be at least one stored. That will tell you what the problem was.

Do not fill the oil to max. Let it burn off and add when it gets to the add mark or when the DIC says "CHECK OIL LEVEL". Go to the top left of this page (Technical Archives) and read up on oil consumption, OLM and full throttle acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got the code off the check engine light: P0741 - TCC System Stuck Off what is this mean??
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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TCC, Torque Converter Clutch normally locks up after 41 mph for better fuel milage. Yours is not. There is minor slippage. Maybe a bad switch on the brake pedal. Worse case is that the engine turns about 100-200 RPM higher at any given speed and you milage drops by about a MPG.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Should I get this fixed or leave it alone? I get a slight jump in RPM's when stopped at a red light in Drive, does not happen in park though. Is this related?
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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It might be related, I am not realy sure. As to whether to repair or not, that is up to you. You won't hurt anything but your fuel milage by not fixing it, and even then, not by much. The repair is likely to be expensive as I am pretty sure the drivetrain needs to be dropped. The best thing to do is get several estimates and then make a decission.
 
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