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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys not sure I. In the right section but I will soon be potentially a new owner of a 2007 bls 1.9d sport but it's a abandoned vehicle under cover but I have no keys what's my best route ? The vehicle is in London
 

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I suspect that the only way you are going to get new keys programmed for that vehicle is by getting the vehicle to Ian Allen Motors at Virginia Water near Heathrow. With no keys, it'll be a trailer job. Even then, with new keys programmed, you will be trailering the car away as you'll have no MoT, and it might have a fist full of issues that need dealing with to get it back on the road. Thankfully, the car is made up mostly of Saab, Vauxhall and Fiat parts, all fairly easy to source. I have no trouble at all getting mechanical bits for my own car. My advice is, give Ian Allen Motors a call and see what they say. You never know, they might even have some past history on the car.

The key programming needs to be done using Tech 2 software and it has to be Cadillac specific as far as I know. The car uses standard Saab 9-3 ignition keys but Saab Tech 2 software won't work, unless someone else out there knows different.
In any case, you'd obviously need the V5 in your name etc. just to get the keys programmed for the vehicle.

It sounds to me like getting new keys won't be a cheap job. Also, what state is this car in? when was the last time it was run? My own car is used every day and lately, I've been covering 500 miles a week in it. The 1.9 Tid is a great car, but it needs to be kept running properly. I've owned my car since new by the way, 10.5 years.
 

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Hi. I have just sold my BLS to a new owner in Fareham. Ian Allen Motors are well known for Cadi and Saab garage work, they also have the databases a d software, I'm told. Give them a call. The fob cases are easily found on eBay if they perish, but that will be a few years away once sorted. En joy it. I had the petrol 2.0t. Great e engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi all,I've got a Cadillac bls diesel,which I've inherited but I have no keys,I can get entry into my car but my question is can I buy a petrol cim and spare key will if I swap my old cim for this one will a petrol cim start my car ???

Moderator EDIT: This post moved from a thread in the relatively quiet Electrical forum. It has been merged into the OP's earlier thread here in BLS. Sub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Morning guys, got a 2007 diesel Cadillac bls, car starts now after being idle for 6 years ,but upon starting and leaving running I get stability control failure on dash, car does move brakes 0ok but due to no tax not or insurance I haven had opportunity for a decent run in her yet ,is this stability control failure a common problem?
 

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The steering wheel position sensor sends info to the Stability system and is one of over a dozen sensors and inputs to that system. SWPS gives intended turn radius info which is compared with roll, pitch, yaw, and individual wheel speeds to determine actual turn radius and apply necessary stability corrections.

If your sensor is anything like my Seville it's at the base of the steering column and requires column removal to replace it. Factory service manual territory, but I can't find one offered in either www.alldatadiy.com or in www.helminc.com.
 

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Morning guys, got a 2007 diesel Cadillac bls, car starts now after being idle for 6 years ,but upon starting and leaving running I get stability control failure on dash, car does move brakes 0ok but due to no tax not or insurance I haven had opportunity for a decent run in her yet ,is this stability control failure a common problem?
Notwithstanding what Hurricane87 and Submariner409 have both said (and both of course are correct), this might just be a case of the car has been stood for so long, it does just need a run to clear the malfunction code.

On my BLS, I sometimes get a steering lock malfunction warning, but it's rare and only happens if I've disconnected the battery and reconnected it, but it soon goes away. I think you really do need to get this car out on the road for a proper run, and I don't just mean a quick ten miles up the road and back again. Of course the main issue you have is, no MoT, so you can't exactly nip out without being caught on ANPR or a traffic cop just happens to be sat eating a donut when you zip past him.

You could buy a cheap fault clearing code device or get OPCOM for about 20 quid off 'the bay'. I do have OPCOM and it works on my car, albeit you have to select Saab 9-3 to access the ECU. It's a useful bit of kit.

The biggest issue you will have, is getting anything coded to the car because you'll need GM Cadillac specific Tech2 to do it. I still don't know how you've managed to sort the keys out, but clearly you have because you've started the car.

Have you checked the car's MoT history by the way? It would be interesting to know if the car failed it's MoT when it last had one all those years ago. I'm sure you must know how to check and find out, but just in case, here's the link. Just put in your reg number:

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah it passed on the 2nd attempt ,tyres and disc thickness both replaced and it passed again ,so yeah I've ordered a obd2 reader I had a generic Chinese version and it gave the following codes 1122,1120 2264 I think the 1st 2 are pedal related I will disconnect the pedal electrical block connector and spray contact cleaner ,and generally check out all visible electrical components, it always starts 1st time but I tried it out on private land drive great for about 1minute then went into limp mode ,oil and filter was changed but good god what kind of Moron designed the oil filter location, also the sump bolt took 3hrs to get off,I resolved it with a nut removal kit,anyhoo runs nice but I think the last fault code is water in fuel I didn't have opportunity today to remove old filter as I kinda lost the will after oil shenanigans
 

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t always starts 1st time but I tried it out on private land drive great for about 1minute then went into limp mode ,oil and filter was changed but good god what kind of Moron designed the oil filter location, also the sump bolt took 3hrs to get off,I resolved it with a nut removal kit,anyhoo runs nice but I think the last fault code is water in fuel I didn't have opportunity today to remove old filter as I kinda lost the will after oil shenanigans
Ok, you need to get the EGR valve off and check it's not gunked up. Pull off the plastic engine cover and the EGR valve is located at the back of the engine on the right hand side as you look at it. If it hasn't been cleaned at all, it's likely to be gunked up to the eyeballs and choking up the inlet manifold. Use carb cleaner and an old tooth brush. Or, save yourself a load of time and a lot of mess, and just buy a brand new one, 20 quid off 'the bay'. Fiat designed a replacement EGR valve gasket with restrictor holes in it. I changed mine from the factory fit one years ago and it is so much better. I believe the part number is 55225287. Probably, believe it or not, the cheapest place to buy a genuine gasket from, is from a Fiat dealer, which is where I bought mine from, albeit a few years back.

MAP sensor: this is located on the top left hand side back of the engine. Take this out, it's held in by one screw and clean it. It will be gunked up believe me.

It's also worth taking off the throttle body and cleaning that out. You'll be surprised just how much gunk gets in there.

As for the sump bolt. Ok, I appreciate you have now got it off and replaced it, but it's worth replacing it with a quickvalve:


I have a quickvalve on my car because I do all my own oil and filter changes. It just dumps out the oil easy as you like. Makes the job a bit quicker.

As for oil filters, I'd recommend only using Mann oil filters or genuine Saab/Fiat/Vauxhall boxed filters which all have different part numbers but Mann make the filters anyway. All three cars use the same 1.9 Z19DTH engine It's easy to cross reference the correct part numbers.

Swirl bar. This might have popped off. Buy an upgrade and replace the factory fit thing with brass bushes. Best place to buy one, the 'bay'.

Again, my advice, if you haven't got one, buy yourself a Saab 9-3 Haynes Manual because it will help you out with loads of jobs that you'll need to do.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok some good news ,got sump bolt off and after a lot engine flushing got some decent oil in her,new oil filter,fuel filter,next was the job I was dreading getting the old discs and pads off,its taken me 2 full days to get the front offside and rear offside discs off ,totally fused on lots of plusgas and swearing and they do come off eventually, remarkably the pistons move ok ,new discs fitted well, also got my metal key back this also works perfectly so all good so far,watch this space as hopefully m.o.t next
 
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