Blinking check engine light 2004 SRX

geocoy2 · Jan 13, 2023

geocoy2
Registered
2004 SRX AWD V8
Joined Sep 18, 2021
83 Posts

01-12-2023

My car will not start. When I try to start the car it does nothing. No clicking or anything. Initially it had blinking Check Engine Light. This is an indication there is a serious problem. I had AZ test my battery and it is good, and I have a new starter, so the problem is somewhere in the system. So I borrowed a Code Scanner from AutoZone and I am trying to read failure codes. I used the information from the code scanner, I got a code P0346-00, and it was telling me the Cam Sensors may have a problem. Well, the Cam Sensors had cracked connectors from a previous repair. So I replaced the connectors and the sensors, and the failure code went away. I also replaced the MAP (its and intake Air sensor) because the connector was also damaged and was seriously corroded with oil.
The first three pictures are the initial Failure codes I was working with.
When I try to start the car now, it still does nothing, no clicking, just nothing. The blinking Check Engine light is gone. But the ignition won't allow me to remove the key. So I have to use a tool to remove the key. I ran a scan tool a second time I will post that information in the next Reply below.

Anyone have any ideas?

geocoy2 · May 5, 2023

1997_eldorado Team ZR-1

For those of you who have never seen the underside of a fuse box, it's not very revealing at this point.
The aluminum pipe is just propping it up to take a picture.

geocoy2 · May 5, 2023

geocoy2 · May 5, 2023

geocoy2 · May 5, 2023

And each one of those unplug as well.

geocoy2 · May 5, 2023

If we are going to choose a yellow wire, it's gonna be one of these. The distinction between them is the thickness.

geocoy2 · May 5, 2023

I'm thinking we are looking for the hot wire from the starter relay. And we don't know what color it is.
Even if I manage to find the hot wire, what am I going to do with it.

1997_eldorado · May 5, 2023

Engine Harness Connector

1	RD/BK	342	Battery Positive Voltage
2	PK/BK	5290	Ignition 1 Voltage (LY7)
3	PK/BK	5294	Ignition 1 Voltage
4	D-GN/WH	459	A/C Compressor Clutch Relay Control
5	D-GN	59	A/C Compressor Clutch Supply Voltage
6	PK	39	Ignition 1 Voltage
7	--	--	Not Used
8	PU	6	Starter Solenoid Crank Voltage
9	PK/BK	5291	Ignition 1 Voltage (LH2)
10	PK/BK	5291	Ignition 1 Voltage
11	PK	239	Ignition 1 Voltage
12	PK	239	Ignition 1 Voltage
13	PK/BK	5293	Ignition 1 Voltage
14	--	--	Not Used
15	PK/BK	5290	Ignition 1 Voltage (LH2)
16	PK/BK	5290	Ignition 1 Voltage (LH2)
17	D-BU	473	High Speed Cooling Fan Relay Control
18	YE	343	Accessory Voltage
19	YE	343	Accessory Voltage
20	--	--	Not Used
21	D-GN	335	Low Speed Cooling Fan Relay Control
22	PK/BK	5292	Ignition 1 Voltage (LH2)
23	PK/BK	5292	Ignition 1 Voltage
24	YE	447	Starter Relay Coil Control
25	BN	5069	MAIN Relay Control
26	RD/WH	1440	Battery Positive Voltage
RD/WH	1440	Battery Positive Voltage

appears pin 24 on connector 5 of that bunch should run back to the ecm

Team ZR-1 · May 5, 2023

YES as I mentioned it is circuit 447, yellow
So one side of OHM meter to pin 24 of that ECM connector
and other probe to the connector in the fuse box that goes to the control ground of that relay would
pinpoint if the wire/pins are the fault or leaves the issue with the ECM

1997_eldorado said:
View attachment 637889

Engine Harness Connector

1
RD/BK
342
Battery Positive Voltage
2
PK/BK
5290
Ignition 1 Voltage (LY7)
3
PK/BK
5294
Ignition 1 Voltage
4
D-GN/WH
459
A/C Compressor Clutch Relay Control
5
D-GN
59
A/C Compressor Clutch Supply Voltage
6
PK
39
Ignition 1 Voltage
7
--
--
Not Used
8
PU
6
Starter Solenoid Crank Voltage
9
PK/BK
5291
Ignition 1 Voltage (LH2)
10
PK/BK
5291
Ignition 1 Voltage
11
PK
239
Ignition 1 Voltage
12
PK
239
Ignition 1 Voltage
13
PK/BK
5293
Ignition 1 Voltage
14
--
--
Not Used
15
PK/BK
5290
Ignition 1 Voltage (LH2)
16
PK/BK
5290
Ignition 1 Voltage (LH2)
17
D-BU
473
High Speed Cooling Fan Relay Control
18
YE
343
Accessory Voltage
19
YE
343
Accessory Voltage
20
--
--
Not Used
21
D-GN
335
Low Speed Cooling Fan Relay Control
22
PK/BK
5292
Ignition 1 Voltage (LH2)
23
PK/BK
5292
Ignition 1 Voltage
24
YE
447
Starter Relay Coil Control
25
BN
5069
MAIN Relay Control
26
RD/WH
1440
Battery Positive Voltage
RD/WH
1440
Battery Positive Voltage

appears pin 24 on connector 5 of that bunch should run back to the ecm

Team ZR-1 · May 5, 2023

The coil of relay draws little current so has to be the smaller yellow wires to trace down
There are 2 wiring loom bundles, check to see which one goes to the ECM

You already proved that using a jumper to take place of the relay's coil, it is NOT a 12 volts issue

While that is apart, I suggest spaying all the wiring pins with electronic cleaner
You should be able to use OHM meter, 1 probe to the connection of relay for control ground
and other probe on the backside as showing below the crimped connector on yellow wire to find which is
the ECM yellow control wire
That maps that relay connector and exactly which yellow wire, to then follow down to ECM to OHM out at that ECM pin and the yellow crimp connector at fuse box.

Team ZR-1 · May 6, 2023

Do a Simple start test
Since the ECM is turning the relay coil on by a controlled ground to coil
And assume either the ECM is not doing that or the yellow wire is bad

Take a small gage wire, connect one end to a ground point
Take the other stripped in and push it into the female connector pin 86
Now put that relay back in and now the coil has the ground

Cannot make it any simpler than this

Try starting

geocoy2 · May 7, 2023

I can do that but I've got some serious putting back together before I can try it

geocoy2 · May 9, 2023

I know this connector has a lead to the starter relay but it looks to me like it is an outgoing lead. It plugs into the top of the fuse board and and runs directly to the a harness that follows the fuel injection system.

geocoy2 · May 9, 2023

Not sure what the route of the leads coming out of the ECM is, I have to review the travel path of the wiring harnesses. They dont seem to go directly to the fuse box, but I could be wrong.
This is the only other connector that leaves the Fuse box that is likely to be the one we are looking for.

1997_eldorado · May 9, 2023

ecm connector 1 pin number 14 yellow wire goes to fuse panel engine harness pin number 24 yellow wire

follow thru with the test Team ZR-1 suggested so things can be eliminated

geocoy2 · May 9, 2023

So you want me to run a wire from C1 ECM pin 14 to Engine Harness pin 24 and do what?

Test for continuity
See if it will start the car?
I didnt understand his instruction.

1997_eldorado · May 10, 2023

referring to my post........ test for continuity.

Do a Simple start test

Take a small gage wire, connect one end to a ground point
Take the other stripped end and push it into the female connector pin 86
Now put that relay back in and now the coil has the ground

what are you not understanding ?

geocoy2 · May 10, 2023

By adding the new wire you are providing a ground, then try to start the car.
I can try that.
NEW EDIT

I was able to run a ground wire from the negative battery terminal directly to pin 86.
The result = Nothing. the Starter refused to even click.
Removed the wire and tried to jump it and I was successful starting the car
Have no idea why it would behave that way unless I burned out the Relay

geocoy2 · May 11, 2023

1997_eldorado Team ZR-1
I borrowed the Code reader from Auto zone and it looks like all the old U codes are gone. But I got a new P0641 that points to bad wiring, so I looked at this video and it reminded me of some previous work.
I saw this video on Youtube and it reminded me of a few places where I have bad wiring. When I removed the plenum to replace the starter there were several harness that were oil saturated and had broken wiring. Im gonna replace the old wiring. Might take a week or so, but I'll keep you up to date

1997_eldorado · May 11, 2023

will keep watching for progress thanx

geocoy2 · May 12, 2023

The pair of gray brown wires with no wrapping are the target of the picture. They come up out of the plenum where the starter is located. They are brittle from exposure to the heat. They are oily. But I see no breaking point. They were wrapped in plastic that I careful removed. They are not rubbing against anything so I'm thinking they are not part of the problem.

geocoy2 · May 12, 2023

The four bare wires are the target of the picture. They are brittle and oily and they were wrapped in plastic. They don't appear to be broken.
I should mention where they enter their connector which sets vertical is exposed to oil. Same thing in the previous picture. They could be shorted out by the oil.
Any ideas or suggestions.

geocoy2 · May 12, 2023

View attachment 638378

The pair of gray brown wires with no wrapping are the target of the picture. They come up out of the plenum where the starter is located. They are brittle from exposure to the heat. They are oily. But I see no breaking point. They were wrapped in plastic that I careful removed. They are not rubbing against anything so I'm thinking they are not part of the problem.

geocoy2 · May 12, 2023

View attachment 638378

The pair of gray brown wires with no wrapping are the target of the picture. They come up out of the plenum where the starter is located. They are brittle from exposure to the heat. They are oily. But I see no breaking point. They were wrapped in plastic that I careful removed. They are not rubbing against anything so I'm thinking they are not part of the problem.

geocoy2 · May 12, 2023

This is what both connectors look like. With out removing them I'm guessing they have oil seep into both of them.

1997_eldorado · May 13, 2023

it is unlikely that those connections are causing your no start condition.

back to the relay......take your ohm meter set to continuity remove the relay and test for continuity between a ground and pin 86 when the key in in the crank position. it needs to be determined if the coil is getting a ground signal from the ecm.
it is possible that the problem lies in the ecm and you may just be chasing your tail jumping all over

geocoy2 · May 13, 2023

1997_eldorado
I did a thorough examination of the relay in post 341 using the video. But I can do it again.
Since I ran a new scan for fail codes I am looking for bad wiring as per code P0641.

Blinking check engine light 2004 SRX

Attachments

Our Vendors

Top Contributors this Month

Recommended Communities