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Blinking check engine light 2004 SRX

33K views 562 replies 11 participants last post by  geocoy2  
#1 ·
geocoy2
Registered
2004 SRX AWD V8
Joined Sep 18, 2021
83 Posts
  • 01-12-2023
My car will not start. When I try to start the car it does nothing. No clicking or anything. Initially it had blinking Check Engine Light. This is an indication there is a serious problem. I had AZ test my battery and it is good, and I have a new starter, so the problem is somewhere in the system. So I borrowed a Code Scanner from AutoZone and I am trying to read failure codes. I used the information from the code scanner, I got a code P0346-00, and it was telling me the Cam Sensors may have a problem. Well, the Cam Sensors had cracked connectors from a previous repair. So I replaced the connectors and the sensors, and the failure code went away. I also replaced the MAP (its and intake Air sensor) because the connector was also damaged and was seriously corroded with oil.
The first three pictures are the initial Failure codes I was working with.
When I try to start the car now, it still does nothing, no clicking, just nothing. The blinking Check Engine light is gone. But the ignition won't allow me to remove the key. So I have to use a tool to remove the key. I ran a scan tool a second time I will post that information in the next Reply below.

Anyone have any ideas?
 

Attachments

#257 ·
Well I am surprised to see somebody has worked on this before, I still think this issue has something to do with the repairs I made when I replaced the right front Catalytic Converter. I was getting occasional blinking prior to that but it was just incidental blinking of the dash gages. Still, you can't help wondering about the wiring repairs, what were they trying to do?
Almost forgot, what have you discovered about the pins on the connector?
 
#262 ·
what does it connect to?
  • A closer look at the taped-up wire.
  • First of all this is a major connector, judging by the shear size of it I dont know if it is SP200 or not. You picture of the SP 200 places it next to the steering wheel taped to a harness. That description seems to fit where I found it. BUT my Repair manual says SP 200 is under the glove box???
  • Where does this connector go?
  • The female side of the connector runs straight toward the engine bay for about 5 inches, then it makes an abrupt turn upwards where it fastens to a large aluminum frame. I cannot see it after that, but I can feel it making a turn and I am thinking it goes straight to the engine bay.
  • See the pics below for possible places where it comes thru the firewall to the engine bay.
  • Image

  • Image

    This is a larger view of the engine bay so you can see where the wiring comes thru the firewall.

  • Image


 
#259 ·
Image


Connector Part Information
15359287​
40-Way F GT 150, 280 Series (BK)​
Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function
A1​
BN​
1356​
Flash To Pass Switch Signal​
A2​
--​
--​
Not Used​
A3​
TN/WH​
1969​
Headlamp Relay Control/Headlamp High Beam Relay Control​
TN/WH​
1969​
Headlamp Relay Control/Headlamp High Beam Relay Control​
A4​
PK/WH​
1970​
Headlamp Low Beam Relay Control/Headlamp Driver Module Control​
PK/WH​
1970​
Headlamp Low Beam Relay Control/Headlamp Driver Module Control​
A5​
TN​
28​
Horn Relay Control​
TN​
28​
Horn Relay Control​
A6​
BK/WH​
351​
Ground​
A7​
PU​
1807​
Class 2 Serial Data (Primary)​
A8​
OG/BK​
5285​
Adjustable Pedals Motor Rearward Control (JF4)​
B1​
--​
--​
Not Used​
B2​
OG​
192​
Front Fog Lamp Switch Signal​
B3​
WH​
103​
Headlamp Switch Headlamps On Signal​
B4​
BN/WH​
301​
Park Lamp Switch On Signal​
B5​
PU​
1783​
Twilight Sentinel Delay Signal​
B6​
--​
--​
Not Used​
B7​
L-GN​
80​
Key In Ignition Switch Signal​
B8​
D-BU​
477​
Windshield Wiper Switch Signal 1​
B9​
PU​
92​
Windshield Wiper Motor High Speed​
B10​
WH​
1538​
Windshield Wiper Switch On Signal​
B11​
YE​
43​
Accessory Voltage​
B12​
GY​
478​
Windshield Wiper Switch Signal 2​
C1​
PU​
1375​
Remote Radio Control Supply Voltage​
C2​
RD/WH​
1440​
Battery Positive Voltage​
C3​
YE​
343​
Accessory Voltage​
C4​
YE​
1491​
Backlight Lamps Control​
C5​
BK​
350​
Ground​
C6​
PU/WH​
5025​
Ignition Lock Cylinder Control Actuator Supply Voltage​
C7​
L-BU/WH​
1414​
Left Turn Signal Switch Signal​
C8​
D-BU/WH​
1415​
Right Turn Signal Switch Signal​
C9​
PK​
3​
Ignition 1 Voltage​
C10​
YE​
5​
Crank Voltage​
C11​
OG​
300​
Ignition 3 Voltage​
C12​
D-BU​
1796​
Steering Wheel Controls Signal​
D1​
PU​
5286​
Adjustable Pedals Motor Forward Control​
D2​
GY​
1884​
Cruise Control Set/Coast and Resume/Accelerate Switch Signal​
D3​
RD/WH​
540​
Battery Positive Voltage​
D4​
RD/WH​
1940​
Battery Positive Voltage​
D5​
PK​
339​
Ignition 1 Voltage​
D6​
BN​
4​
Accessory Voltage​
BN​
4​
Accessory Voltage​
D7​
--​
--​
Not Used​
D8​
--​
--​
Not Used​
 
#260 ·
Image



Connector Part Information
15359284​
40-Way M GT 150, 280 Series (BK)​
Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function
A1​
BN​
1356​
Flash To Pass Switch Signal​
A2​
--​
--​
Not Used​
A3​
BK/WH​
1969​
Headlamp Relay Control/Headlamp High Beam Relay Control​
A4​
L-GN​
1970​
Headlamp Low Beam Relay Control/Headlamp Driver Module Control​
A5​
BK/WH​
28​
Horn Relay Control​
A6​
BK/WH​
351​
Ground​
A7​
PU​
1807​
Class 2 Serial Data (Primary)​
A8​
OG/BK​
5285​
Adjustable Pedals Motor Rearward Control (JF4)​
B1​
L-BU​
--​
Not Used​
B2​
OG​
192​
Front Fog Lamp Switch Signal​
B3​
WH​
103​
Headlamp Switch Headlamps On Signal​
B4​
BN/WH​
301​
Park Lamp Switch On Signal​
B5​
PU​
1783​
Twilight Sentinel Delay Signal​
B6​
--​
--​
Not Used​
B7​
TN​
80​
Key In Ignition Switch Signal​
B8​
D-BU​
477​
Windshield Wiper Switch Signal 1​
B9​
PU​
92​
Windshield Wiper Motor High Speed​
B10​
WH​
1538​
Windshield Wiper Switch On Signal​
B11​
YE​
43​
Accessory Voltage​
B12​
GY​
478​
Windshield Wiper Switch Signal 2​
C1​
PU​
1375​
Remote Radio Control Supply Voltage​
C2​
OG​
1440​
Battery Positive Voltage​
C3​
YE​
343​
Accessory Voltage​
C4​
YE​
1491​
Backlight Lamps Control​
C5​
BK​
350​
Ground​
C6​
PU​
5025​
Ignition Lock Cylinder Control Actuator Supply Voltage​
C7​
L-BU/WH​
1414​
Left Turn Signal Switch Signal​
C8​
D-BU/WH​
1415​
Right Turn Signal Switch Signal​
C9​
PK​
3​
Ignition 1 Voltage​
C10​
YE​
5​
Crank Voltage​
C11​
OG​
300​
Ignition 3 Voltage​
C12​
D-BU​
1796​
Steering Wheel Controls Signal​
D1​
PK​
5286​
Adjustable Pedals Motor Forward Control​
D2​
GY​
1884​
Cruise Control Set/Coast and Resume/Accelerate Switch Signal​
D3​
RD/WH​
540​
Battery Positive Voltage​
D4​
RD/WH​
1940​
Battery Positive Voltage​
D5​
PK​
339​
Ignition 1 Voltage​
D6​
BN​
4​
Accessory Voltage​
D7​
YE/BK​
--​
Not Used​
D8​
L-GN​
--​
Not Used​
 
#264 ·
that connector that you pointed out is the steering column connector and i believe there are three connectors total. and i believe they are the ones you've pictured.
regardless of who done them patches i would remove the tape inspect and solder the joints possibly put some heat shrink tubing on them to protect them rather than tape.

weather wasn't nice today so i didn't get to look under my dash.
 
#269 ·
that connector that you pointed out is the steering column connector and i believe there are three connectors total. and i believe they are the ones you've pictured.
regardless of who done them patches i would remove the tape inspect and solder the joints possibly put some heat shrink tubing on them to protect them rather than tape.

I can do that
 
#267 · (Edited)
We can just do more guessing, but GM does not take a black (known as for Ground)
and do a bad splice like that to orange ? Which is normally a switched voltage circuit

I wonder if a past owner put in a cut-off switch to prevent theft and added a switch out of sight to prevent startup
Guessing has to stop, must determine what the pinout is for that connector and GM wiring drawing showing
at the least, what circuits those to wires are for

Maybe if they added an ign lockout that switch is outside the car, and you bumped it when doing the CAT work
but clearly once seeing what the 2 GM wires are for would then answer why the splice was done and how to undo that splice and any others
GM would have used heat shrink and so far see non GM blue and black tap
Determine the black wire going to that 6 pin connector where that plugs into and what each of the 6 wires purpose is

Is that all black or also with a white stripe, and is the other color solid orange ?

You need to follow the wiring connectors pin outs 1997_eldorado
has been supplying and find as with this large connector, which one as example has a blue wire at the end and looks like an orange in next position would then tell you for sure what circuits are in that connector

Also, if in fact the connector by its colors is the splice pack you're looking for \?

Image
 
#272 ·
Also Team ZR1
  • I plan to trace the wiring to see where it leads
  • You gave me the pin info for this white connector, it plugs into the ignition switch
    Image

  • I plan to open up those wires that are taped together and make sure they have good connections. May have to acquire a soldering gun, I did not do a good job with the torch.
 
#276 ·
He cannot go further until he sees what the pinout is for that white connector,
what each of the wires is for and WHY was that splice done, not just if the splice is good

Report here what each circuit wire is for and exactly what color wires with that splice

GM does do crap splices like that, looks like painter tape used :)
 
#277 ·
He cannot go further until he sees what the pinout is for that white connector,
what each of the wires is for and WHY was that splice done, not just if the splice is good

  • Right now, I'm feeling a little stupid that I never noticed this connector / switch is not on any of the pictures of the ignition switch in my manual. This has to be something someone added, but who and why?
  • Image
 
#288 ·
Damn, you stumbled onto a real rat's nest !
Wonder what the 4 fuses block is for, if even stock and looks like only 2 amp fuses ?
Any voltage to that fuse block and all fuses good ?
I doubt GM would have had that fuse block that is hidden and no easy way to replace fuses if need be

Very odd for what looks like multi hand splices, and what the hell were they trying to do ?

Still smells like some security
power cut off for ign to prevent starts ?
 
#290 ·
Damn, you stumbled onto a real rat's nest !
Wonder what the 4 fuses block is for, if even stock and looks like only 2 amp fuses ?
Any voltage to that fuse block and all fuses good ?
I doubt GM would have had that fuse block that is hidden and no easy way to replace fuses if need be

Very odd for what looks like multi hand splices, and what the hell were they trying to do ?

Still smells like some security
power cut off for ign to prevent starts ?
A little history. I bought this car in 2005 at a used car lot. I've been suspicious all these years why it was in a used car lot. I noticed it had a GM Union insignia on the door (in the area of the latch) that made me believe it was owned by an employee of GM. I NOTCED the front wheels had serious dents in the front rims, like it was driven very hard. I only had it a few months when the rear wheel bearings, both wheels locked up. It caused damage to the transfer case. It was under warranty so GM replaced them. Then after a few years it started having a check engine lite issue. Dealer told me to replace the gas cap and that fixed the problem for about 5 years.
The whole thing was very strange.
 
#292 ·
i would say that is unusual......but the quality turned out today it doesn't surprise me....cheapest fix is usually all that is required.

the remote start that was installed in the 97 eldo had a hack and slash install done by what one would call a well know large car service center.
every wire used for the install of the remote start and security bypass was black with not so well taped connections, no soldered joints. as i mentioned i was lucky not to have any issues related to that but it wasn't for the quality of the install.
wiring problems are a PITA in an untouched system let alone a spliced one