lets just say it's a 2004........ with rust........ water may enter through spots you never notice.
1) I have not re-checked the wiring for the ignition switch. As I recall, I replaced the ignition switch, and it was just a snap in-place switch. It had a receptacle that plugged into it, but all wiring looked like new.
2) The car was still running (July of last year) but I Developed a parasitic drain, that was draining the battery. Investigation and help from the Forum, I discovered it was the disc player. It had several discs in it and it could not park them in place when you turned the car off. So it was draining the battery. I finally just removed the discs and it stopped the fusing. I had to remove the navigation disc as well. It was the only way I could retain the information system. I drove the car for a few months like this.
Then it developed a clicking noise when I tried to start the car. At first it was just one click and then it would start. Finally, it just refused to click or start.
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I think it was about this time I called the manufacturer of the starter motor. He told me there are only a few reasons why the starter would not work. Either there is a poor ground or a poor positive lead from the battery. So, I ran new leads from the battery directly to the starter motor. I had a dedicated positive #2 wire run to the starter. And a dedicated #2 ground wire to the starter motor. It grounds at the engine a few inches from the starter. I got it running again and I drove it for a while. Then it started the clicking noise again.
It was off and on, but it made it feel very unreliable.
Then one day I backed it into the garage, and it just refused to start.
3) Well when it would not start, that's when I started having trouble with the key not coming out of the ignition. So my first instinct was to replace the ignition switch.
Thats when I created this post:
My car will not start. When I try to start the car, it does nothing. No clicking or anything. Initially it had blinking Check Engine Light. This is an indication there is a serious problem.
I got a code scanner, and it was reading codes from past repairs, so I cleared the codes and scanned it again and that's when we got the communication errors.
Originally the lights on the dash were blinking all over the place. Then when you open the door the parking lights would come on and the taillights would come on.
You guys (Forum) suggested it was rusted or poor connections, so I started looking all over the car for bad connections. I also replaced the Cam sensors and the map sensor because the fixtures were damaged. I also checked my wiring, to make sure my sensor wiring was correct. Turns out I had improperly changed the wiring to the map sensor. So I made that repair again.
Now that I made these changes the dash lights still come on, but they seem to be normal. Right now, the only warning light that comes on is the traction control light. The Check engine light is off. When I put the key in the ignition and turn it to run, I get normal warnings that the lift gate is open, check the tire pressure gauge, Service suspension system. Service Suspension is relatively new, not sure what triggered that. When I turn the key to the off position, I have to use a tool to remove it. When I get out and close the door the interior lights stay on for a few minutes because the lift gate is open. But it finally goe out on its own. So it has improved.
Keep in mind too that right now I have the ECM unplugged and I have the EBCM unplugged also
NEW EDIT
Almost missed the grounding point on the ABS. I didnt want to touch this nut thinking it was an adjustment nut. Now I know this has to be a grounding point.
NEW EDIT
You cannot get a wrench on that nut it set in a slot that is not wide enough for the wrench. Tried putting vicegrips on it but even that slips off. So I'm in a slow process of cutting it off ARG.
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