I am thinking those are great examples. Also I dont think Im going to find anything inside the car that looks that bad. If I find something like that it will be under the car or in the engine compartment. The wheel wells have a few connectors that are small but they look like your examples. Let me do some exploring.
Thanks for the great examples

 

If you do take the time to open the splice packs, you might want to consider spraying the male and female pins
with like electrical contact cleaner or MAF cleaner, so they are known clean for the future

Do the same for the mounting bolt and area of frame the grounds attach to

 

If you do take the time to open the splice packs, you might want to consider spraying the male and female pins
with like electrical contact cleaner or MAF cleaner, so they are known clean for the future

Do the same for the mounting bolt and area of frame the grounds attach to

So, I removed the front grill at the bumper, and I removed the fiberglass wheel wells so I can see a lot better. I can see the Engine Control Module and the bolts that hold it in place are badly rusted.

 

This is what Im using, it seems to work pretty well

 

Just trying to understand
Team ZR-1
Initially I got this code C0244 from my Innova Diagnostic Code reader. When I looked it up in my repair manual it gives a description as follows:
DTC C0244 OR P1689 Circuit Description The electronic brake control module (EBCM) and the engine control module (ECM) simultaneously control the traction control. The ECM reduces the amount of torque supplied to the drive wheels by retarding spark timing and selectively turning OFF fuel injectors. The EBCM actively applies the brakes to the front wheels in order to reduce torque. The EBCM sends a requested torque message via a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to the ECM. The duty cycle of the signal is used to determine how much engine torque the EBCM is requesting the ECM to deliver. Normal values are between 10-90 percent duty cycle. The signal should be at 90 percent when traction control is not active and at lower values during traction control activations. The ECM supplies a pull up voltage of 12 volts that the EBCM switches to ground to create the signal. The ECM sends a delivered torque message via a PWM signal to the EBCM. The duty cycle of the signal is used to determine how much engine torque the ECM is delivering. Normal values are between 10-90 percent duty cycle. The signal should be at low values, around 10 percent, at idle and higher values under driving conditions. The EBCM supplies a pull up voltage of 12 volts that the ECM switches to ground to create the signal. When certain ECM DTCs are set, the ECM will not be able to perform the torque reduction portion of traction control. A serial data message is sent to the EBCM indicating that traction control is not allowed.
Then it goes on to say:
The following conditions can cause this concern:
An open in the delivered torque circuit.
A short to ground or voltage in the delivered torque circuit.
A wiring problem, terminal corrosion, or poor connection in the delivered torque circuit.
A communication frequency problem.
A communication duty cycle problem.
The EBCM is not receiving information from the PCM.
Loose or corroded EBCM ground or PCM ground.
This is becoming overwhelming.
Next is a listing of the grounds I found and did not find.

If anyone has any idea to help find the ones, I was unable to find it would be appreciated.

 

I suggest while you went this far is to use electronic cleaner like made to clean the MAF, not battery post cleaner
and spray all the male pins of the PCM and female pins of wiring connector
Before putting them together, look closely that no pins got pushed backwards

Any grounds or splice packs near the PCM to assure they are clean and good connection to frame ?

 

So all those listed below you have not found ?
Which controllers or functions you're having problems with, find the grounds or SPs for them and clean them ?

How about the SPxxx ground splice packs, did you look for those ?

 

So all those listed below you have not found ?
Which controllers or functions you're having problems with, find the grounds or SPs for them and clean them ?



How about the SPxxx ground splice packs, did you look for those ?

View attachment 631701

Google says the ECM is a splice pack. I talked about the ECM in my last Comment. The mounting bolts for the ECM were seriously corroded and I managed to clean them up. Are you referring to something else. also found the mounting bolts for the Fuse box and I cleaned those up. I'm treating anything that is mounted to the body or frame as a possible ground, and I am one by one cleaning them all up.
Can you explain your little drawing, Im not sure I understand your point about the Ground Splice Pack. Could be I don't know what A splice pack is.

 

Well, finally getting some action in the SRX section. I just bought an 05 last year. Haven't done much work on it yet. I probably would have went low tech and see how much of the starter wires I could check. I would think there would be a plug in those wires somewhere where I could see if the starter is being activated. One thing I do know is the traction control and stability control will not keep the engine from running. Do you have a service manual for it yet? I don't think I paid much for my CD version, like $12 or so. I'll take a quick look and see what I canfind for troubleshooting a no crank.

 

Go back to my post #35. As I show and explain what a splice pack is where several ground wires
connect internally to the pack and then it is connected to frame

 

Go back to my post #35. As I show and explain what a splice pack is where several ground wires
connect internally to the pack and then it is connected to frame

Gotcha, but how would I know I was looking at a Splice Pack. They look like any other connector to me. I know I am sounding pretty lame right now but it's the best I can do, just keep asking good questions and hoping you will bear with me until I get it. Im guessing the Splice Pack will be mounted on the Frame or Body

 

Because several wires, most time black, go into the ground splice pack and is bolted to frame/chassis, so you know that is a common ground connection

IF finding packs as I showed in post #35, the pack comes apart and may find the wires connectors
Corroded or rusted so bad ground connections, but that is hidden from your view

Think of it this way

You have 7 ground wires in the same area
Would you want to have to bolt each one to frame, or take those 7 ground wires and splice them together and then just one connection to frame ?

Go back to your post #26, notice the ground layout and then where it says splice packs

Example for your engine you see several ground wires all going to one ground to frame location

 

Because several wires, most time black, go into the ground splice pack and is bolted to frame/chassis, so you know that is a common ground connection

OKay I finally got to the grounding bolt on the rear of the engine passenger side. It had a braided wire attached to a circular clip, bolted to the head. I cleaned it up with a spray cleaner. Ive gone over the engine bay looking for anything bolted to the engine or the body and I loosened all of them and spray cleaned them up. I was even ale to find a grounding point on the alternator.
Next I have this connector that doesnt look bad (its clean) but Im not sure how to open it up to spray clean it. Two pictures of teh same thing, one is a close up. This set at the rear of the engine and it looks like the wires coming out are heading into the area of the dash and ignition.

If i knew what it is I could research it in my manual
Can anyonetell me what this is?

 

Forgive me for stepping in late and maybe suggesting what has already been done. But with most electrical faults the diagnostic is to actually start chasing and tracing wires. Has any of that been done? Or are you chasing grounds? What code are you chasing after? I can provide the diagnostic steps for the code you are trying to drill down on.

Likewise, how did this start? What parts have changed recently? Accident? Rain? Snow? Have you had intermittent starting issues before and now this? Was a check engine light on before? Or did all this just seemingly happen overnight?

 

Forgive me for stepping in late and maybe suggesting what has already been done. But with most electrical faults the diagnostic is to actually start chasing and tracing wires. Has any of that been done? Or are you chasing grounds? What code are you chasing after? I can provide the diagnostic steps for the code you are trying to drill down on.

Welcome back Artic Man. Please got to the original post #1 for good explanation. Weve been chasing code information for a while now.

 

Looking at the first post and the pictures you have the following codes:

p0346
U0001
C0001
C0244
U1000
U1301

Back to - was the check engine light on before this? For the items you have swapped either immediately before this issue or during we have:
Cam sensors
MAP and intake sensor
Replaced the ignition switch
Replaced the starter - Ran new dedicated wire to starter and new cable to ground

You talk about codes C0242 and C0243 but do not list them anywhere before post 18. What are ALL the codes you have and their definitions?

Here is U1000 troubleshooting steps. To help narrow this down we need ALL codes.

 

Looking at the codes you likely have a short somewhere. You should be probing wires to find the shorts. If you can provide some history on the work that was done that can help point you to a harness to look for. Or once you start seeing which modules are not reporting then I can provide some wiring diagrams.

 

Finally, we need to know which module threw the U1000 code. It appears from your images at least that it doesn't tell us. The module that gave us U1000 and likely U1301 can help us narrow things down.

 

Finally, we need to know which module threw the U1000 code. It appears from your images at least that it doesn't tell us. The module that gave us U1000 and likely U1301 can help us narrow things down.
Herer are the images I have from the initial Scan. They are in that first post but they dont all show up unless you click on them.

 

More images

 

i did not read all the replies, but have you checked/cleaned the fuse box connectors on the bottom of the fuse box? they are a known source of gremlins....remove it, use electrical contact cleaner and a plastic brush ( tooth brush?) to clean the contacts and snug down very securely ( dont he-man it)

 

Yes I did, I found three bolts and I pulled each one separately and cleaned the connection area with the battery cleaner spray and wire brushed the bolts. I intend to get the electrical cleaner to day. The cleaner I have is for removing battery corrusion, the electrical cleaner is for cleaning up oil soaked electrical connections.

 

I think this is the last of them. I tried to put a notation on each one that I was able to find information. After getting these images I bought the cam sensors and the MAV because they were cited, each had been either damaged from the prior repair they were oil soaked. After replacing them I tried to run a new scan fro errors but the tool could no longer communicate with the system. Thats when I started looking for rusted or damaged connections.
As of now I can not get the code reader to communicate with the system. I checked the code reader on my wifes card and it does work, so the problem in in my car.
I did try the code reader and it did connect to the system but it would only tell me there was no free frame data stored in the system. It was the GLOBAL OBD2 menu.

 

battery cleaner? ....not a great choice brother, those are plated contacts....hope it works out for you

trip

 

If the scanner won't work anymore then you should probably start reverting some changes you have made. I would also start probing the OBD port and see if you have power to the port. If so, then there is at least something wrong with the PCM? I am not sure off hand what the port connects directly to, but am guessing the PCM. Instead of looking for grounds all over the car you should start there. If you don't have power then likely your ignition switch has gone bad or you created a fault in the system somewhere.

 

If the scanner won't work anymore then you should probably start reverting some changes you have made.
You listed my changes very well
I replaced the:

Cam sensors​

MAP and intake sensor​

Replaced the ignition switch​

Replaced the starter - Ran new dedicated wire to starter and new cable to ground​

You can't revert Cam Sensors, I had to spice new connectors into the wiring harness. Beside they were obviously damaged when I made the original repair to the Cat Converter
Same with the MAP Sensor, I had to spice new connectors
The Ignition switch was replaced after this all started.
The starter and Cables are all working correctly. I put a meter on the starter switch, it is getting 12 volts.
.
I've taken the front grill off the car and removed the Fiberglass wheel wells so I can see the grounds and the ECM clearly. The mounting bolts and grounds on the ECM were badly rusted. I loosened the bolts and sprayed them with a cleaner and wire brushed them as well as possible. Basically I've completed the cleanup on the engine bay with one exception. There is a hard to get to ground on the passenger side of the engine block. Let me fix /check that ground and put this all back together and see what happens.

 

Being the DLC that you plug, the code reader you mention sometimes does not work
You should clean the 16 pins and next time reader does not work leave reader in and move around the wires of DLC to see if any of the pins have weak crimps to the wires and reader again starts to work

The only one click of starter is suspect, are you sure the battery has no weak/bad cells ?

The PCM gets a fused 12 volt circuit, it converts that to 5 volts, that is a reference of 5 volts than to sensors like MAP, TPS, and maybe the APP (gas pedal)
Assure that fuse is good, at the top of fuses you see 2 metal tits, with key on, using one side of multi meter (black to ground) use top of red lead and assure there are 12 volts to each tit.

If you have a service manual, see if APP and fuel control use that 5 volts.

Do you have a meter that also has a D/C amp clamp type ?
If not and cannot borrow one, you can buy these local or like Amazon for about $40
You want one that does at least D/C, not only A/C) though you can buy models that do both

MESTEK Digital Clamp Meter Multimeter True RMS AC/DC Current Amp Meter, NCV Auto-ranging Voltage Tester , Measures 100A 600V Current Voltage Temperature Capacitance Resistance Diodes Continuity: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

MESTEK Digital Clamp Meter Multimeter True RMS AC/DC Current Amp Meter, NCV Auto-ranging Voltage Tester , Measures 100A 600V Current Voltage Temperature Capacitance Resistance Diodes Continuity: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

With meter in AMP mode, clamp around wire for starter and monitor meter while someone tries to start,
Should see about 10 amp draw.

This meter lets you test other functions of car
Example if not sure fuel injectors are getting commanded on and proper fuel rail pressure
when trying to start and clamp around the black (or dark wire)

Let's say correct fuel rail pressure is 40 PSI
For every 1 amp draw is about 10 PSI,
so if correct pressure than should see about 4 amp draw

The concern right now is that ign switch, its wiring, battery and starter/solenoid quality

Have you tried to start with a charger on the battery or a jump start
Have you tried to start in park or neutral ?
Try rocking car in gear to see if solenoid has a burnt spot, so bumping flywheel may cause moving away from that spot

Your question of bad ground, now you feel ground is not part of the problem ?

 

Being the DLC that you plug, the code reader you mention sometimes does not work.
Hey Team ZR-1, Thanks for responding. Just wanted to take a minute to respond to your concerns.
1) I took the old DLC Reader back and they gave me a better one. It seems to work correctly.
2) The one click is good news to me right now, it tells me I have made some progress by cleaning the rusted connecters/ grounding points. I have a few more grounds i have to check, example I want to check the Ride Sensors on the two rear wheels. I cleaned up the front wheels, they were rusty.
3) You said "The PCM gets a fused 12-volt circuit, " I've checked the fuses several times just to make sure I didn't accidently blow one of them. I do it after I make changes just to verify.
4) The Error code P2138-00 (The accelerator position is not plausible) concerns me. I have not done any work around the gas pedal that would make this pop up as a new problem. But I have worked around the Throttle body assembly, while I was looking for corrosions and grounding points. I'm thinking if there is a problem with the P2138-00 it more likely in the throttle body.
5) AutoZone may lend me one of those meters. I have a Innova Multimeter (photo below).
6) I ran new dedicated #2 cable Directly from the battery to the starter for Positive and Negative.
7) You said, "The concern right now is that ign switch, its wiring, battery and starter/solenoid quality". These are all new, I just installed them.
8) You said, "Your question of bad ground, now you feel ground is not part of the problem?" I'm continuing to check grounds anywhere I see a bolt in the frame or body.

 

The fuse is one part, if PCM is getting that 12 volts than you want to see if the sensors that are feed the 5 volts from PCM is getting to those sensors, a service manual would show what sensors use the 5 volts.

If you did anything that disturbed TPS/APP you may have to do the relearn process for that, if that is the cause of that DTC
So the new starter also came with a new solenoid ?

As I mentioned in the past, if auto tranny, could be a park/neutral issue (or brake pedal switch, IF required to start)
or clutch safety switch if manual tranny, in any of those are issues would prevent engine crank

The meter you have has no D/C amp clamp,
so yes you need one as I mentioned would quickly show while cranking if proper amp draw is seen

 

The fuse is one part, if PCM is getting that 12 volts than you want to see if the sensors that are feed the 5 volts from PCM is getting to those sensors, a service manual would show what sensors use the 5 volts.
Do you have a picture of the PCM, we keep talking about this and I'm not sure where it is or what it looks like? When I Google search for PCM on the internet it always shows the ECM, Engine Control Module. They are not the same.
What is the TPS your referring too?
Yes, the new starter came with a solenoid.

 

Well, I felt so good about the progress I was making by cleaning the grounding points, I decided to go back and do a little extra cleaning around the ECM or Pc, I pulled all of the nuts on the mounting bracket, one at a time and thoroughly cleaned them. Now the code reader says it lost communication with the Engine Control module. There is a U0100-00 (Current). I talked AutoZone into a new free battery and checked it again. Same Results
This is what Google says:
The most common cause of a U0100 code is a faulty battery. If the voltage in your battery drops too low, it can affect network communications, which can cause your vehicle to come back with a U0100 code.
What causes no communication with ECM?
In some ECUs, the crankshaft position, camshaft position and maybe the MAP sensor will use the same five-volt source. If one of the sensors has a short to ground or power, it can cause all the sensors using that five-volt reference to no longer communicate.
Now I going to have to go back and check my wiring, I had to splice two connectors in when I replaced the connectors for the Cam sensors. t just doesnt end.

 

You MUST determine that the PCM is getting at least 12.5 volts measured at the PCM pins and ground wires at PCM are good

I mentioned way back to be getting those "U" comm codes are common with low or dirty voltages.

You need to look at a service manual for the PCM wiring connectors as which are 12 volts and grounds and meter test right there and not at the fuse block

 

You MUST determine that the PCM is getting at least 12.5 volts measured at the PCM pin
Let's assume it's not getting 12 volts. There are 3 bundles of wires plugged into the ECM. I've cleaned the mounting nuts thoroughly. What else can I do

 

Most common problem with U1000 is a low voltage issue
If not, then a Starbus network wiring issue, else failed controller

The BCM is the network router, it is the boss, every module talks through it

You MUST, once and for all

Look at service manual wiring, look at what pins of the wiring harness to PCM connectors as
which are 12 volts from fuse panel, maybe 2 of them and assure voltage at the pins have at least 12.5 volts
And the ground wires on those connectors OHM out to ground/frame

If not the issue than you need to look at what pins of the PCM wiring connector connect to the network
and assure they are good.
Next is the network wires from the BCM to the network

Do not know on your vehicle, but common is where the PCM is located is the Starbus/CAN wiring and connectors

At this point flush out all DTCs, then with a OBD-II scanner in record mode is try and start engine,
then look at all Current error codes and any freeze frames.

 

Most common problem with U1000 is a low voltage issue.

I was having trouble flushing/erasing out the codes in the code reader, so I just entered a new vehicle. Then I ran the diagnostics to see what codes were in the system.
Here is a list:
1) U0100 Generic Pending = Lost communication with engine control Module (Current)
2) C0244 Pulse width modulated (PWM) Delivered torque (History)

• Faulty Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) harness is open or shorted Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) circuit poor electrical connection Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

3) C0242 Power train Control module (PCM) Indicated TCS Malfunction (History)
4) U1000 Class 2 Data link malfunction (History)
5) U1301 Class 2 Data Link High Voltage (History)
6) C0244 Pulse Width Modulated Delivered torque (Current)
7) U1000 Class 2 Data link Malfunction (Current)

You can see from this a lot of the codes we saw previously are gone. Now the system is saying in general there is a communication issue.
From your message above it sounds like you want me to unplug the three-wiring harness that plug into the ECM and test them for voltage

"Look at service manual wiring, look at what pins of the wiring harness to PCM connectors as
which are 12 volts from fuse panel, maybe 2 of them and assure voltage at the pins have at least 12.5 volts
And the ground wires on those connectors OHM out to ground/frame"
I will have to research the Manual for that information.

 

Read what I wrote in wiring image
Once you find where those purple wires connect to data lines, then you would take off ECM C2 connector follow circuit 1807 for other end from ECM
With Ohm meter, one end of the wiring pin your engine size is ( would be either pin 48, or pin 15 or 16 )
and other probe of meter to where that purple wire connected data lines (so look for that drawing)

Now you still need to find the wiring to show from the fuse panel, which 2 are fused for the ECM and which wiring pins of ECM connector,
Taken off the ECM and use meter to see they are getting the 12 volts (should be around 12.5 volts on those wiring connector pins and the grounds to PCM are good
The Star bus network uses ground, so it has to be good to work correctly

 

As I mentioned the pins numbers are shown

Keep in mind the issue with wiring, maybe the pins are dirty or have weak crimps
to the end of wires

 

1997_eldorado
The pins on X2 don't match your picture, its probably because its a 2008 and mine is a 2004. BUt the picture did give enough infor to make a simple plan of testing the probes. I was able to find the ignition switch terminal and register 11.5 volts, same as what the battery has right now. I checked a few by touching my probe on the points and ground it to the frame.
1) Some of the pins have 5 volts while others didnt seem to have anything
2) NOt knowing where the pins go makes it difficult to draw any conclusions