Never give up guys. thought you might want to know how this played out.
I finally got the 2004 SRX back on the road again.
Last time I talked with you guys you were pushing wring diagrams on me. I don’t relate well to wiring diagrams, so I proceeded with ERROR codes.
The car was not starting so I developed a work around. I pulled the started relay and crossed the two points to start the car. It worked. The problem was it was running in LIMP mode. It was drivable, but it had no power and would not go over 40 mph. Getting it started and getting it running made me feel good, even if it wasn't perfect.
So next I focused on error codes. This is a list of all the error codes I was getting. One by one I replaced the related parts:
- The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, 09 / 06 / 2023, Shipped, $609.77
- Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, 09 / 02 / 2023, Shipped, $95.00
- Throttle Body, 05 / 19 / 2023, Shipped, $116.61
- Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor Connector, Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor, 12 / 29 / 2022, Shipped, $57.53
- Camshaft Position Sensor, 12 / 29 / 2022, Shipped, $61.60
- Vehicle / Output Speed Sensor Connector, 12 / 21 / 2022, Shipped, $88.35
- Ignition Starter Switch, 11 / 21 / 2022, Shipped, $69.32
- Lift Support, 05 / 13 / 2022, Shipped, $26.83
- Ignition Coil, 05 / 08 / 2022, Shipped, $195.57
- Oxygen (O2) Sensor, Valve Cover Gasket, Oxygen (O2) Sensor Socket / Wrench, 04 / 21 / 2022, Shipped, $242.87
- An ECM from Flagship1 $200.
- When I installed the new ECM all the codes automatically disappeared.
With all these parts installed it cleared all the codes. Then a day or two later a new code popped up
Code P00011. The check Engine light was back on again.
What is the engine code p00011?
What causes the P0011 code? The most common cause of this code is a faulty timing chain or camshaft sensor. It can also be caused by an oil leak in the VVT system, or worn engine components such as spark plugs, valves, and gaskets. If the fault code is caused by worn engine components, they need to be replaced.
I Took the car to a local repair shop, and they declined to work on it saying to get to the source of the problem, the timing chain, could cost thousands of dollars. They didn't want to be responsible.
I took it to the dealer for a second opinion. The dealer didn't want to touch it because it was no longer a Cadillac. I had made so many wiring repairs the dealer could not trust my work. He asked if he could keep the car over the weekend and drive it to see if he could get the Check Engine light to respond. The dealer advised me that it was unlikely the timing chain. He said the timing chain on the NorthStar is almost bullet proof. He advised me to recheck the wring. I was stumped.
The dealer called me and recommended a wiring specialist. The wiring specialist came to my house and together we looked at what I had done. He was impressed and baffled. He had the same problem; he didn't know if he could trust my work. Turns out, he was not really a specialist. He was in the business of repairing cars that were in accidents and needed new wiring, replaced. He was not good at diagnostics. But in the process of showing him what I had done I noticed that wiggling one of the wires on the camshaft position sensor caused the Check Engine light to go out.
After he left, I performed the same test and bingo the Check Engine light was out. The wire was grounding to the engine block.
I've been driving it for two weeks now, with no issues.
