[1997_eldorado]

yup i see that now......6 pins in one row

 

[1997_eldorado]

i do recall the old 97 eldorado had an aftermarket remote start hooked up and also a bypass that was needed for it..... which once removed left a couple of unused connectors. the wiring mess they left was not pretty but luckily no issues

 

[geocoy2]

i do recall the old 97 eldorado had an aftermarket remote start hooked up and also a bypass that was needed for it..... which once removed left a couple of unused connectors. the wiring mess they left was not pretty but luckily no issues

• Plan to get back at this today, having a few health issues because of the weather

 

[1997_eldorado]

as always take care of yourself first.
hope ya feel better soon

 

[geocoy2]

• This is the pin count you sent me a while back for the white connector that has the taped-up wires. I'll see what I can do to repair this taped up wiring.

• 
  

 

[Team ZR-1]

You still have not answered what was done under that blue tape ? ? ?

And do the color of wires follow the exact pinouts of that connector ?

 

[geocoy2]

You still have not answered what was done under that blue tape ? ? ?

And do the color of wires follow the exact pinouts of that connector ?

• I working on exactly that sir
• Contents of fuse box
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
• New Edit

• 
  

 

[Team ZR-1]

Damn, you stumbled onto a real rat's nest !
Wonder what the 4 fuses block is for, if even stock and looks like only 2 amp fuses ?
Any voltage to that fuse block and all fuses good ?
I doubt GM would have had that fuse block that is hidden and no easy way to replace fuses if need be

Very odd for what looks like multi hand splices, and what the hell were they trying to do ?

Still smells like some security
power cut off for ign to prevent starts ?

 

[1997_eldorado]

i believe the 2 amp fuses are for the steering wheel controls. and yes i think its a stupid place to put them


never nice to try and figure out the hacks and slashes tho

 

[geocoy2]

Damn, you stumbled onto a real rat's nest !
Wonder what the 4 fuses block is for, if even stock and looks like only 2 amp fuses ?
Any voltage to that fuse block and all fuses good ?
I doubt GM would have had that fuse block that is hidden and no easy way to replace fuses if need be

Very odd for what looks like multi hand splices, and what the hell were they trying to do ?

Still smells like some security
power cut off for ign to prevent starts ?

A little history. I bought this car in 2005 at a used car lot. I've been suspicious all these years why it was in a used car lot. I noticed it had a GM Union insignia on the door (in the area of the latch) that made me believe it was owned by an employee of GM. I NOTCED the front wheels had serious dents in the front rims, like it was driven very hard. I only had it a few months when the rear wheel bearings, both wheels locked up. It caused damage to the transfer case. It was under warranty so GM replaced them. Then after a few years it started having a check engine lite issue. Dealer told me to replace the gas cap and that fixed the problem for about 5 years.
The whole thing was very strange.

 

[n7don_srx]

I discovered two blue tape "connections" in the TCM connector on the 2007 SRX. Bought the car new so no aftermarket add-ons. So there's possibility it's something GM did and not aftermarket

 

[1997_eldorado]

I discovered two blue tape "connections" in the TCM connector on the 2007 SRX. Bought the car new so no aftermarket add-ons. So there's possibility it's something GM did and not aftermarket

i would say that is unusual......but the quality turned out today it doesn't surprise me....cheapest fix is usually all that is required.

the remote start that was installed in the 97 eldo had a hack and slash install done by what one would call a well know large car service center.
every wire used for the install of the remote start and security bypass was black with not so well taped connections, no soldered joints. as i mentioned i was lucky not to have any issues related to that but it wasn't for the quality of the install.
wiring problems are a PITA in an untouched system let alone a spliced one

 

[geocoy2]

i would say that is unusual......but the quality turned out today it doesn't surprise me....cheapest fix is usually all that is required.

• Okay so you guys are leaving me with no sense of direction. I think its worth investigating to see where the wires go and to know if they are connected reliably. Although it looks half-assed, I think it is an intentional install from the factory. I don't think an after-market installer would have gone to all this trouble to install fuses in such a remote area. It's just not good business practice. Nor do I believe a home boy repair guy would have gone to all this trouble to install a bypass, or whatever this thing is. So now it's just a matter of do we really need to do anything other than verify its still working properly.
• What do you guys think?

 

[1997_eldorado]

I don't think an after-market installer would have gone to all this trouble to install fuses in such a remote area.

those four fuses are likely for the steering wheel controls and are factory installed.

the wire splices are not factory installed and need to be traced to find out what they are connected to, as was stated they could be for an immobilizer that may be what is causing the no start.

my bypass and remote start is nothing to do with your wiring was just a statement about aftermarket hacks in the wiring of my car.

 

[geocoy2]

those four fuses are likely for the steering wheel controls and are factory installed.

the wire splices are not factory installed and need to be traced to find out what they are connected to, as was stated they could be for an immobilizer that may be what is causing the no start.

my bypass and remote start is nothing to do with your wiring was just a statement about aftermarket hacks in the wiring of my car.

• Agree the fuses are a factory install
• The wiring is totally questionable and needs to be verinfied
• So we are only checking to see if the wiring is reliably connected.
• I'm not sure if we will ever know what the wiring is supposed to be doing.
• I can trace it out and take pictures of the connections
• Let me know if you have any other ideas

 

[1997_eldorado]

you need to trace where those wires that are spliced to the factory harness lead.
we know where the factory wires should go, we need to know where the user added wires go.

this is not getting into the U1301 high on class2 issue but may lead to the reason for no start.

 

[1997_eldorado]

note number 12

(1)​	Inflatable Restraint Steering Wheel Module Coil​
(2)​	C208​
(3)​	Inflatable Restraint Steering Wheel Module Connector C1​
(4)​	Inflatable Restraint Steering Wheel Module Connector C2​
(5)​	Turn Signal/Multifunction Switch​
(6)​	Turn Signal/Multifunction Switch Connector C4​
(7)​	Turn Signal/Multifunction Switch Connector C3​
(8)​	Turn Signal/Multifunction Switch Connector C2​
(9)​	Turn Signal/Multifunction Switch Connector C1​
(10)​	Steering Wheel Position Sensor​
(11)​	C203​
(12)​	Fuse Block - Steering Column​
(13)​	C202​
(14)​	Theft Deterrent Control Module Connector​
(15)​	Ignition Lock Cylinder Control Actuator Connector​
(16)​	Ignition Switch Connector​
(17)​	Ignition Key Alarm Switch (Part of steering column harness)​
(18)​	Windshield Wiper/Washer Switch Connector​
(19)​	Windshield Wiper/Washer Switch​
(20)​	Theft Deterrent Control Module​
(21)​	Ignition Switch (Hidden) and Ignition Lock Cylinder Case​
(22)​	Ignition Lock Cylinder Control Actuator​

 

[geocoy2]

note number 12

• Never noticed that, so it was a factory install.
• This is the clamping method they used. The wires are orange and white in this Pic

• The first Splice
• 
  
• 
  
• Destination of the 1st splice
• 
  
• The Fuse box
• 
  
• 2nd splice
• Its my opinion that these wiring repairs were made at the bench. There is just not enough space to maneuver around in the small cluster of wires. They are in a tight bunch, but they are also twisted around, They must have pulled the entire wiring harness out and made the repairs and then re-installed the harness.
  
  
  
  

​

 

[geocoy2]

1997_Eldorado
I keep thinking to myself, this seems to be pertinent, but it's not consistent with the way the car was acting when It finally quit starting. I had the car running last summer but it began to have what sounded like a problem with the battery. When you try to start it, you would hear a clicking sound like the battery was low. The car started but it made you wonder what day it would not start. Then one day I backed it into the garage and it just refused to start. It was like there was a problem that was growing over time. It wasnt like someting just broke, it was like something was not right and it was gradually getting worse and then it got so bad the car finally refused to start. I think that is why I stuck to the rust problem for so long.
It's likely a combination of things but I can't put my finger on what that combination would be. Initially I checked all the obvious things .

1. The symptoms
   The dash lights were flashing
2. The service engine light was flashing
3. The Traction control light was on
4. The check stability light was on
5. The key would not come out of the ignition
6. It was generally the dash lights that were all symptoms

So I checked all the obvious things like:

• The battery (symptoms remained the same)
• the Relays (symptoms remained the same)
• The fuses (symptoms remained the same)
• The wiring (symptoms remained the same)
• The connections at grounding points (symptoms were the same)
• The only thing that ever made a real difference was when I tried to remove the ECM to clean up the rusted mounting bolts. It snapped loose and after that the problem with the ignition key went away. The blinking Check Engine Light stopped.
• From a previous repair I had broken some plastic connectors, so I repaired the broken connectors. This repair never made a real difference.

 

[1997_eldorado]

did you get the ecm out to clean all the contact areas? it's doubtful that it's in the connectors but the body of the ecm is a ground point so that may need to be addressed
the u1301 can cause issues that are similar to what you experienced dash wise i believe because one of the modules may be taking the whole communications system down.
that module could even be the ecm.
is there any way you can gain access to an oscilloscope and a good scan tool that can communicate with the individual modules
you mentioned the relays.....did you remove the relay and jump it to see if the starter would crank?

i believe that wire is a key sense sensor connection....detects the key in the cylinder


im still not able to make sense of all the wiring splices....they are connected to the theft deterent and the key sense making me think a remote starter was attached and possibly removed. or an aftermarket immobilizer used by leasing companies but my head is in a bunch of different projects currently while my car gets neglected....lol
and i am by no means a professional.
access to testing tools is beneficial