This video illustrates how to find and fix 5 volt reference codes. This is what I was trying to do without an Ossilloscope. Once you find the short and repair it, the code should go away.

 

Could this be the infamous yellow wire that runs from the throttle to the throttle body we were looking for? I'm betting it is.

 

View attachment 639855

 

1997_eldorado
Who made this post #502, that was not mine and in fact I deleted it once and I see it is back again?

 

Never give up guys. thought you might want to know how this played out.
I finally got the 2004 SRX back on the road again.
Last time I talked with you guys you were pushing wring diagrams on me. I don’t relate well to wiring diagrams, so I proceeded with ERROR codes.
The car was not starting so I developed a work around. I pulled the started relay and crossed the two points to start the car. It worked. The problem was it was running in LIMP mode. It was drivable, but it had no power and would not go over 40 mph. Getting it started and getting it running made me feel good, even if it wasn't perfect.
So next I focused on error codes. This is a list of all the error codes I was getting. One by one I replaced the related parts:

• The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, 09 / 06 / 2023, Shipped, $609.77
• Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, 09 / 02 / 2023, Shipped, $95.00
• Throttle Body, 05 / 19 / 2023, Shipped, $116.61
• Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor Connector, Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor, 12 / 29 / 2022, Shipped, $57.53
• Camshaft Position Sensor, 12 / 29 / 2022, Shipped, $61.60
• Vehicle / Output Speed Sensor Connector, 12 / 21 / 2022, Shipped, $88.35
• Ignition Starter Switch, 11 / 21 / 2022, Shipped, $69.32
• Lift Support, 05 / 13 / 2022, Shipped, $26.83
• Ignition Coil, 05 / 08 / 2022, Shipped, $195.57
• Oxygen (O2) Sensor, Valve Cover Gasket, Oxygen (O2) Sensor Socket / Wrench, 04 / 21 / 2022, Shipped, $242.87
• An ECM from Flagship1 $200.
• When I installed the new ECM all the codes automatically disappeared.

With all these parts installed it cleared all the codes. Then a day or two later a new code popped up
Code P00011. The check Engine light was back on again.
What is the engine code p00011?
What causes the P0011 code? The most common cause of this code is a faulty timing chain or camshaft sensor. It can also be caused by an oil leak in the VVT system, or worn engine components such as spark plugs, valves, and gaskets. If the fault code is caused by worn engine components, they need to be replaced.
I Took the car to a local repair shop, and they declined to work on it saying to get to the source of the problem, the timing chain, could cost thousands of dollars. They didn't want to be responsible.
I took it to the dealer for a second opinion. The dealer didn't want to touch it because it was no longer a Cadillac. I had made so many wiring repairs the dealer could not trust my work. He asked if he could keep the car over the weekend and drive it to see if he could get the Check Engine light to respond. The dealer advised me that it was unlikely the timing chain. He said the timing chain on the NorthStar is almost bullet proof. He advised me to recheck the wring. I was stumped.

The dealer called me and recommended a wiring specialist. The wiring specialist came to my house and together we looked at what I had done. He was impressed and baffled. He had the same problem; he didn't know if he could trust my work. Turns out, he was not really a specialist. He was in the business of repairing cars that were in accidents and needed new wiring, replaced. He was not good at diagnostics. But in the process of showing him what I had done I noticed that wiggling one of the wires on the camshaft position sensor caused the Check Engine light to go out.
After he left, I performed the same test and bingo the Check Engine light was out. The wire was grounding to the engine block.
I've been driving it for two weeks now, with no issues.

 

Never give up guys. thought you might want to know how this played out.
I finally got the 2004 SRX back on the road again.
Last time I talked with you guys you were pushing wring diagrams on me. I don’t relate well to wiring diagrams, so I proceeded with ERROR codes.
The car was not starting so I developed a work around. I pulled the started relay and crossed the two points to start the car. It worked. The problem was it was running in LIMP mode. It was drivable, but it had no power and would not go over 40 mph. Getting it started and getting it running made me feel good, even if it wasn't perfect.
So next I focused on error codes. This is a list of all the error codes I was getting. One by one I replaced the related parts:

• The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, 09 / 06 / 2023, Shipped, $609.77
• Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, 09 / 02 / 2023, Shipped, $95.00
• Throttle Body, 05 / 19 / 2023, Shipped, $116.61
• Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor Connector, Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor, 12 / 29 / 2022, Shipped, $57.53
• Camshaft Position Sensor, 12 / 29 / 2022, Shipped, $61.60
• Vehicle / Output Speed Sensor Connector, 12 / 21 / 2022, Shipped, $88.35
• Ignition Starter Switch, 11 / 21 / 2022, Shipped, $69.32
• Lift Support, 05 / 13 / 2022, Shipped, $26.83
• Ignition Coil, 05 / 08 / 2022, Shipped, $195.57
• Oxygen (O2) Sensor, Valve Cover Gasket, Oxygen (O2) Sensor Socket / Wrench, 04 / 21 / 2022, Shipped, $242.87
• An ECM from Flagship1 $200.
• When I installed the new ECM all the codes automatically disappeared.

With all these parts installed it cleared all the codes. Then a day or two later a new code popped up
Code P00011. The check Engine light was back on again.
What is the engine code p00011?
What causes the P0011 code? The most common cause of this code is a faulty timing chain or camshaft sensor. It can also be caused by an oil leak in the VVT system, or worn engine components such as spark plugs, valves, and gaskets. If the fault code is caused by worn engine components, they need to be replaced.
I Took the car to a local repair shop, and they declined to work on it saying to get to the source of the problem, the timing chain, could cost thousands of dollars. They didn't want to be responsible.
I took it to the dealer for a second opinion. The dealer didn't want to touch it because it was no longer a Cadillac. I had made so many wiring repairs the dealer could not trust my work. He asked if he could keep the car over the weekend and drive it to see if he could get the Check Engine light to respond. The dealer advised me that it was unlikely the timing chain. He said the timing chain on the NorthStar is almost bullet proof. He advised me to recheck the wring. I was stumped.

The dealer called me and recommended a wiring specialist. The wiring specialist came to my house and together we looked at what I had done. He was impressed and baffled. He had the same problem; he didn't know if he could trust my work. Turns out, he was not really a specialist. He was in the business of repairing cars that were in accidents and needed new wiring, replaced. He was not good at diagnostics. But in the process of showing him what I had done I noticed that wiggling one of the wires on the camshaft position sensor caused the Check Engine light to go out.
After he left, I performed the same test and bingo the Check Engine light was out. The wire was grounding to the engine block.
I've been driving it for two weeks now, with no issues.

Well a lot of thigs have happened since I talked to you guys last.
Specialist were pointing to the timing chai as the root of the problem. They were close but "No Cigar". The plug that connects to the timing chain mechanism was a source of the problem. No one including the dealer wanted to touch it. I LUCKED OUT. I discovered the plug was erroring out because it wasn't getting oil. I drilled holes in the base of the connecter to prove it was not leaking oil. Dealer told me to check the oil every time the error code appeared. I started doing that regularly. Turns out when the engine was a quart low on oil the light would come on. Even I knew the fix for that.
As of today, all lights are out, and my car passed emissions inspection this last week. I have a license plate good for two years. I'm driving it folks. The dealer discovered a parasitic draw, which I could not explain, but it turns out the draw is so low its unlikely it will ever drain the battery if I drive it on a daily basis.
You didn't hear form me over the past months because I had knee replacement surgery which got infected, and I am still in rehab learning to walk again.
You guys stuck with me for so long I felt I needed to explain.

 

Wow, talk about trials & tribulations! You must really like your SRX…if mine got to that point it’s going to the scrap yard. Good on you for perseverance.

 

wiring issues are never fun.
thanx for the update

 

I love the car and it still looks great. I love driving it. What can I say.

 

guys I have intermittent issues with a female plug that fits into the area of the "Oil Control Valve". I want to buy a new plug and run new wires to it, but I can't find the name of the female connector. Any help would be appreciated.

 

This vendor sells all types of GM connectors and wire looms

Connectors

Our site has more Crank and Cam Signal Kits, Connectors, Terminals, and Professional Series ECU Extensions than ever before!

www.eficonnection.com

 

Thanks Team ZR, that's exactly what I was looking for. The car is running so good it scares me

 

Team ZR-1 I went to their website to search for the Connector and pigtail I was looking for. I found some that look to be a close fit, but they have no "Search" tool, so it looks like it's a guessing game to find the connector I want. Is that the way it works?
This is very close to what I'm looking for, but I only need two wires.

This is the part that it plugs into
More Information for GATES VVS378 (rockauto.com)

 

Would not know unless you post an image of your connector, how many pins it has
and point to the URL of connector you see at that website

There is a search ICON at the top right

 

2007 CADILLAC SRX 3.6L V6 Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid Connector | Shop Now at RockAuto

Electrical-Connector Parts and More for Your 2007 CADILLAC SRX at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

 

That looks similar but the way it locks looks different

 

what leads you to that conclusion, did you extract codes? or you just don't like the looks of that connection
if that is the vvt solenoid which it looks like it is, they are the listed connectors

if the problem is the wiring fix the wire hacks. that connector you show in the pic doesn't look like it should be a problem unless it's been improperly probed but the wire in pic 2 looks to be taped/spliced already?
solder the connections and use heat shrink tubing to seal them

 

Very cool 1997_eldorado. I did what you did and found it. Turns out its a 2005 SRX V8
2005 CADILLAC SRX 4.6L V8 Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid Connector | RockAuto
Mine is a 2004 SRX, but im willing to bet it will fit.

It's not soldered or taped; the connector is broken. I think I may have probed it with a paper clip an accidently spreading the prongs too far apart. So it has a loose fit. Thats all that's wrong.

 

ya probing them is tricky. don't know why i was thinking 2007 sorry for the confusion.
i would not use those butt connectors, i would solder and heat shrink that connection and cover with wire loom. even if you use the butt connectors use heat shrink on them.

 

I would not suggest using those butt splices as that sensor either puts out a signal or low voltage
and butt splice might not do a good solid connection over time and could allow picking up EMI or RFI signals
Also, the wire loom wires maybe smaller gage and that butt splice could be for larger gage so not good crimp

Do a unit splice, solder and shrink tube and then some electrical tape around both for good seal
If having any electronic or MAF spray cleaner might as well clean the pins on the sensor

 

Correct. I learned to solder and used heat shrink tubing. The car runs great, I think it could use new plugs but I lost my taste for tearing it apart and putting it back together. I'm just going to drive it for now.

 

Guys thanks for your help, the connector I bought is exactly lthe right one, I soldered it on and shrink wrapped it. You could see the prongs on the old one were damaged when you compared them. I hope this is problem solved

 

Interesting development Team ZR-1 and 1997_Eldorado. On the coldest day of the year my battery went Dead, I mean deader than a doornail. I couldn't unlock the doors. Had to use the key to get inside. I charged it up and took it to AutoZone and did a battery test on it. Battery was okay, charging was okay and starter tested okay. So I tried doing a parasitic test on it to see if I had a parasitic drain on the battery. Turns out I had a 6 amp parasitic draw on the battery, not enough to kill it on a day to day driving basis but enough to kill the battery after a few days of setting. Traced the problem to a fuse labeled "Instrument Panel and Outlet". I assumed it was the Radio and Disc player. I was having problems with the disc player before. You cannot store discs in it, it can't settle itself on shut down. So I play discs in it and remove them at shut down. So out of curiosity I pulled the fuse and started the car. To my amazement the Instrument panel is fine, I was so surprised I forgot to test the radio, it was bitterly cold in my garage. So my question is: What the heck is that fuse supposed to be for?

 

Look in the owner's manual, as it should state what the outlet is for the I/P

 

Owners manual states

Accessory Power Outlets
Your vehicle is equipped with accessory power outlets.
The outlets can be used to plug in electrical equipment such as a cellular telephone, CB radio, etc.
Your vehicle has one outlet in front of the center console, one in the rear of the center console, one in
the rear compartment, and there may be an additional outlet in the rear of the center console.
Your vehicle may have a small cap that must be removed to access the accessory power outlet. If it
does, when not using the outlet, be sure to cover it with the protective cap.

The accessory power outlet will only operate when the ignition is in ACCESSORY or ON and for 10 minutes
after turning the ignition to OFF.

If you would like the accessory power outlet to operate regardless of ignition position, and for extended periods of time, you can do the following:

1. Open the hood and locate the underhood fuse block.
2. Find the I/P OUTLET and OUTLET fuses and move them over a space, to the open cavity next to each fuse.

Notice: Leaving electrical equipment on for extended periods will drain the battery. Always turn off electrical equipment when not in use, and do not plug in equipment that exceeds the maximum amperage rating.

Certain accessory power plugs may not be compatible to the accessory power outlet and could result in
blown vehicle or adapter fuses. If you experience a problem, see your dealer for additional information on the
accessory power outlets.
Notice: Adding any electrical equipment to your vehicle may damage it or keep other components
from working as they should. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Check with your
dealer before adding electrical equipment.
Follow the proper installation instructions that are included with any electrical equipment you install.
Notice: Improper use of the power outlet can cause damage not covered by your warranty.
Do not
hang any type of accessory or accessory bracket from the plug because the power outlets are
designed for accessory power plugs only.

1 of the OUTLET Center Console Accessory Power Outlet

But you want I/P OUTLET Instrument Panel Accessory Power Outlet

I assume there is one on the dash to plug devices in like a cellphone, etc

 

I believe you are absolutely correct Team ZR-1, I was assuming the same thing, but I was looking for a second opinion. Problem is I don't use any of those cigarette lighter outlets. We used to use the to charge the phones, but not recently. Removing the fuse will not harm anything then. But what could have caused them to drain the battery when nothing is being used.
BTW I checked the radio and disc player this morning, they all still work. That I/P outlet fuse accounted for 4 amps of parasitic drain. There is still something draining the battery, I'll continue to check.
I just noticed this information about outlets, this makes it even more puzzling. There are apparently two fuses that control outlets in the same box???
What's that all about.

 

If you reread what I posted, it says

If you would like the accessory power outlet to operate regardless of ignition position, and for extended periods of time, you can do the following:

1. Open the hood and locate the underhood fuse block.
2. Find the I/P OUTLET and OUTLET fuses and move them over a space, to the open cavity next to each fuse.

So this says with the fuse in than something controls how long those outlets are hot
Such as GM has it, so engine can be turned off but for like 10 minutes if a door is not opened it allows like radio, outlets, windows, etc to stay on, like your parked but inside car waiting for someone and can use electronics for that time period or door opens

So it maybe a stuck relay for this or a controller that controls that ON time and is drawing the voltage/current

You could try by pulling both outlet fuses and test for any drain or

You need to post from service manual the schematic of the wiring for the I/P outlet to where every the wires go to so we can see if it is some relay or controller for time power saver is commanded ON and OFF